BOLGHERI AT 25

Bolgheri, in Tuscan terms, is not big. From north to south by road, the DOC zone stretches a mere 13km, and it is easy to miss the rather insignificant-looking turning between Livorno and Grosseto that takes you through the avenue of cypress trees to the village of Bolgheri, or into the country lane that flanks its most famous estates. The soils are basically deep sand-clay, but extremely diverse. Recent studies identify nine macro-areas and no fewer than 27 different soil profiles. The climate is slightly cooler than in neighbouring Maremma and is significantly drier than in the central hills: a great asset in wet vintages.

Bolgheri means fundamentally Bordeaux blends, although the production norms also allow for monovarietals. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot account for 60% of the 1,370ha of vineyard, followed by Cabernet Franc, Syrah and the complementary variety Petit