NEW YORK

he winter season on the New York runways seems to carry on from the latest one, with recurring themes such as , bright colours and embellishments. It could be the metaphorical desire to change the world that, with one crisis after another, seems bent on staying grey and dark. Whatever it is, New York is determined to put on an optimistic face, showcasing , and along with for times like the , as seen in Marc Jacobs’ show, which featured a Jackie Kennedy seen through the lens of ’. The collection, like that of Carolina Herrera, features a lot of , bon-ton coats and suits that, in Jacobs’ case, also came with . , , and are the hallmarks of Oscar de la Renta and Jason Wu Collection. The dreamy dresses produced by both brands are not very suited to everyday wear, unless you spend a lot of time under the spotlight. Their version of romantic elegance focuses on both and  in what might sound like a contradiction but actually works for their evening wear – brimming with , , and . More centred on daywear, yet still and , the collections from Cynthia Rowley and Tory Burch are dominated by , bright colours and with a few touches of Victoriana in the dresses and blouses offered by Burch, which feature , and . But the real was created by Anna Sui, Rodarte and Vera Wang, with a that also influenced the models’ make up with and/or scarlet lips. Inspired by the heroines of ’70s horror movies, Anna Sui’s collection showcases a vamp(ire) in mainly long dresses in vivid tones and floral decorations, embellished with , zigzags, , feathers and . More vampires come from the Mulleavy sisters at Rodarte, who were inspired by Coppola’s film adaptation of Bram Stoker’s Dracula for their , , and cascades of petals, while Vera Wang adds a