North & South

FOOD FIGHTERS

We were so smug about food there for a while. For the first year of our son Ira’s life, he ate everything we put in front of him. From about the time he was four or five months old, he was interested in food – to the point where he’d grab food off our plates, or chips at the pub. We’d start chopping up an avocado and within 10 minutes he’d have eaten the whole thing, piece by slippery piece. We didn’t worry about allergies – peanuts, gluten, shellfish, he ate the lot.

We have a wonderful photo from his first summer, when he was all of six months old, his face covered with food, a gummy smile, holding up a bit of chicken triumphantly like some sort of talisman. Chicken! So this is what they were on about! He’s sitting in his high chair at our place, it’s high summer, and there is a golden glow around him.

Not long after that, we took him to Thailand. He was nine months old by then and we rented a villa on a

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