WOMEN COLLECTIONS S/S 2019
London plotted an anatomy of feelings. It offered shows of rare intensity that laid bare an array of emotions. , , , : every visual element became a letter in the textile alphabet. Expressing and telling stories. The choice of colours, and rendered the complexity of the human soul in a palpable way. The clothes were light verses,, but also , and . It explored the light and shade of the human soul, the whites, blacks and all the moody greys in between. Simone Rocha showed , dark women, women in mourning and in pain. Widows dressed in , rich and . Dark women whose shoulders were covered with embroidered . Austere women in . Victoria Beckham composed a song of concentration: the collection was clean, minimal and measured, devoid of excesses, pure, with in silent black. Burberry shaped mental rigour, formal balance and simplicity. It celebrated the exactness of deep colours, concrete and slate-grey. Jasper Conran sowed words over fabrics, leaving room for bold geometry and lettering. “Equality not Minority” appeared in black letters on a white background. Christopher Kane sounded out the abyss, torment, the last heartbeat. The animal instinct for survival. He moulded , draping, , , , and . Roland Mouret explored the shades of seduction: , , , cheeky transparencies. Obsession and perversion tinged Gareth Pugh’s palette: , , , unsettling suits. For an urban, theatrical nightmare, thick with drama. The colours lightened up later in the show, reassuring the spirit. Mary Katrantzou showed a wunderkammer, an imaginary world populated with , , fragments of art, fragrances and memories. Delpozo looked to the beauty of and the poetry of the . Delicacy, fragility, care. grew over the shoulders and garments, forming sculptures, , , , embroidery, shimmers and . Freedom and expressiveness reverberated in the Roksanda collection, which featured , , , dancing shapes, in warm tints of turmeric, coral, ochre and peach. Calm was the key word for JW Anderson, who incorporated it into clothes with a , spontaneous . and dripped from sleeves, skirts and trousers were loose, and colours neutral. The runway became the territory for feelings, the space where inner dialogue could take place. , and innovation made up this emotional lexicon, this poetic story, amongst the light and shade of the human mystery.
