The power of balance

Osso buco, risotto Milanese

SERVES 4

“One of the most famous dishes from Milan, the key ingredient in this risotto is saffron,” says Scott Pickett. “It’s a perfect foil for the slow-cooked veal. The classic way to serve this is to scatter it with gremolata, which adds a wonderful freshness.” Pictured p92.

1 kg ripe tomatoes
4 veal osso buco pieces (350gm-450gm each)
60 ml (¼ cup) olive oil
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 onions, diced
2 anchovy fillets, coarsely chopped
250 ml (1 cup) dry white wine
2 litres (8 cups) veal or chicken stock
1 large thyme sprig
1 large rosemary sprig
1 large sage sprig
1 fresh bay leaf
Large pinch of saffron

GREMOLATA

½ bunch flat-leaf parsley, leaves picked, coarsely chopped
Finely grated zest of 2 lemons
1 garlic clove, finely grated

RISOTTO

90 ml olive oil
5 golden shallots, finely diced
2 garlic cloves, crushed
500 gm (2½ cups) carnaroli or arborio rice Pinch of saffron
50 gm parmesan, grated
25 gm butter
½ lemon (optional)

1 To make osso buco, score a cross in the base of each tomato and place into a large heatproof bowl. Cover with boiling water and stand for 2 minutes, then drain. When cool enough to handle, slip off skins (discard). Halve crossways, scoop out seeds and coarsely chop flesh.

Preheat oven to 160°C. Season meat well on both sides. Heat 2 tbsp oil in a large flameproof casserole over high heat. Brown meat well on both sides (4-6 minutes). Remove from pan and set aside. Reduce heat to low and add remaining oil to pan. Add garlic and