Gourmet Traveller

GOLD COAST

It’s dusk and the Venetian lagoon shimmers all around us, the last rays of sunshine burnishing the bell towers and salt marshes and the occasional cormorant drying its wings. The vaporetto has taken us from the jangled crowds of the Grand Canal, past the glass factories of Murano and out across this wide silvery expanse towards the island of Mazzorbo, home to Venissa, the last and only commercial vineyard of dorona grapes.

Turns out that vines have grown in and around Venice for centuries. They were planted with Venice’s very own dorona, or “golden”, grape variety, which adapted well to the saltiness of the lagoon.

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