The Médoc
Many brilliant wines, and many that are a more extreme version of the usual Feft Bank styles. St-Estèphes at 15% abv is unusual, and in Jauillac both Mouton Lothschild and Jichon Baron were among several estates to record their highest alcohols ever. At harvest many were expecting yields of about 42hl/ha but on picking found it had dropped to 38hl/h because of concentration in the final few days, meaning grapes had less juice and skins were thicker. This was repeated across the gravel soils of the Médoc, with huge concentration as a result – though it’s worth remembering that while small yields made headlines, the production overall is in line with the 10-year average and volumes are very generous at many properties. And even where concentration is striking, the high alcohol enrobes the tannins, helping to mask their strength. Many of these wines are utterly delicious.
Médoc & Haut-Médoc
ACROSS THE MEDOC, you’ll find a range of styles, and production volumes. Higher than average alcohols are in many wines, but the fruit quality tends to be very concentrated and rich, with supple tannins – lots of character and great for early drinking.
Médoc
1 Clos Manou 93
Tight with long tannins, silky cassis, bilberry and juicy, textured blackberry. Ambitiously structured with plenty of cocoa, black chocolate, pencil shavings. A serious wine with high acidity that should age well. Drink 2023-2034
2 Château Fleur La Mothe CB 92
A good name to remember when looking for value in the Médoc. This is up there with the 2016, with plum and raspberry fruits, good definition, freshness alongside the tannins and an excellent smoky touch to the finish. Drink 2023-2038
3 TOP VALUE Château d’Escurac CB 91
Always a reliable name, and extremely good this year. Silky-sweet cassis, well textured and balanced, though perhaps a little heat on the finish. As ever meaty and with impact. Will please its fans and gather new ones. Drink 2024-2038
Haut-Médoc
Château Sociando-Mallet 94
Powerful, intense, classic Sociando and, for2024-2038
