Andrew Jefford
It was dark crimson: only a little redder and more translucent than human blood. Pungent, ripe raspberry fruits filled the air, even before I sniffed; the wine was structured, vivacious and arresting in the mouth. ‘This is absolutely,’ said Frédéric Barnier, the technical director for Louis Jadot, ‘not the colour we are looking for. But it is like that.’ The wine was the unfinished 2018 Volnay 1er
