Chicken Schnitzel

Loosely defined, schnitzel is a piece of meat that’s been pounded thin, breaded, and fried—but frankly, that undersells it. This Austrian classic is more delicate than thicker, crunchier Japanese tonkatsu and more distinct than workaday Italian breaded cutlets such as Milanese and scaloppine. There’s an elegance to its svelte profile, and even more so to its unique crust: The crumb is particularly fine and closely packed, and instead of hugging the meat the way most breadings do, it puffs away from the cutlet as it fries, forming an airy, wrinkly shell that’s not at all greasy. Serving it with a squeeze of lemon and a bright-tasting salad accentuates its lightness. Done well, it manages to be both casual comfort food and dinner party fare.

Austrians typically prepare schnitzel with veal or pork, but plenty of recipes swap in other proteins that are comparably tender and mild, especially chicken breast. The switch sounded appealing to me—who