But First, Coffee

AMERINGUE OF foamed milk makes a cute little nest for the crushed nuts that top Caffè Buondì’s wee pistachio cappuccino. Beneath it, steamed milk and a barky shot of Lavazza espresso float over housemade pistachio cream. Served in a clear glass demitasse, the coffee and froth line up in crisp horizontal stripes, a tiny Rothko that seems too decorative to disturb. But the server suggests giving it a good stir prior to sipping, to kick up the sweet sediment at the bottom. Though it doesn’t look as pretty, blended into such inky slurry, it tastes wonderful, like a dark, rich, honey-nutty jolt of Italian adrenaline.

Just like its gourmet