VBB: To rat, or not rat, that is the question?

During the past few years, my scooter and I have had plenty of adventures. Most recently, Istumbled upon a whole series of characters well worthy of respect and a good mention in these pages. Never before this moment though, have I encountered such a singular and eccentric-minded person as this one I’m about to describe...

Squeezed between two of the most touristic Italian regions (Lazio and Toscana) is a village near the mountain in which Nicolai works as a humble vehicle bodywork specialist. I met him during one of my last explorations in the deep South, since passing through his village is a sensorial experience. Travel tip: If want an authentic taste of Italian passion and gesticulation, visit the ‘osteria’ or ‘frasca’, not ‘bar’ or ‘trattoria’. The former are establishments for local villagers and are usually equipped with a long wooden