Currying flavour
A new generation of Indian restaurants in New York make way for widening palates and vivid imaginations.
A portion of halibut arrives at the table, flecked with bits of roasted poha. Slow cooked in a broth of dry ginger and turmeric, it extends its aromatic warmth to a wintry New York afternoon. Alongside, a Ma ki Dal accented with fresh fenugreek, with a sizeable white sphere at its centre that looks suspiciously like fresh mozarella. Turns out, it is Burrata a decidedly unusual companion to a dal. The Burrata dal is a crowd favourite at Paowalla, and Chef Floyd Cardoz, seated in front of me, urges me to cut messily because there is no other way through to its soft, creamy interior. Cardoz is no stranger to presenting inventive iterations of Indian cuisine to New York, first showcasing his talent with the 1998
