Climbing3 min lettiDiscrimination & Race Relations
“The Community Issue”
I grew up in a multiracial, multicultural city: Albuquerque, New Mexico, home to a mix of Latinx, Native American, Black, Asian, and Anglo people. The city’s Mexican and Spanish roots run deep, a fact that’s reflected in its populace, dining (some of
Climbing6 min lettiGender Studies
Gender Bias: Nonbinary Climbers Sound Off On Discrimination In Climbing
Rin Gentry, 24, knows most people look at them and assume they are a woman. Their style is spunky and colorful. They have bright-pink hair and a high ponytail with bangs. They dress in Spandex and cropped tank tops. They don’t deny they appear femini
Climbing7 min letti
Rated R: Should Oscene Or Offensive Routes Be Renamed?
Melissa Utomo’s first trip to Ten Sleep Canyon, Wyoming, in July 2019, was memorable. Sure, the limitless limestone and alpine wildflowers left an impression. But what stood out the most was an area called the Slavery Wall. Flipping through the guide
Climbing1 min letti
Caption contest, Quick clips, Re-Gram, Book Club
@YKBA234 is the winner of our Caption Contest, which we roll out each issue with hilarious cartoons from Jordan Peterson (@ jordankpeterson). For this winning caption, @ykba234 wins a Meteor helmet from Petzl. Stay tuned to our site and social channe
Climbing5 min letti
Autumn Climbing Kit
$139, madrock.com The updated Redline Strap is a radically downturned, asymmetrical beast (Mad Rock calls the shape a “spiral last”) made for gym climbing and steeps. These shoes are tight: I usually wear an 8.5 or 9 rock shoe, but here needed a 9.5.
Climbing6 min lettiMedical
Seasonal Drift: Why Appetite Fluctuates Throughout The Year—and How To Flow With It
Every year as August comes to a close, I notice my appetite increase and my drive for climbing, training, and physical exertion wane. The shift feels dramatic in contrast with the summer, when I have low appetite, a high motivation to get outside, an
Climbing6 min letti
Bolton Dome, Vermont, And The State's New Schist Golden Age
Thrashing through nettles, sneaking through maple trees, and walking on carpets of moss, Travis Peckham and friends hiked behind the Fernwood Manor trailer park in Bolton, Vermont. Moving stealthily, Peckham traversed a lichen-covered ramp to access
Climbing5 min letti
The Webs We Weave: Escaping The Trap Of Outdated Ethics
When I began climbing nine years ago, my trad mentor instilled in me that the ground-up, onsight lead—placing pro—was the purest form of ascent. For years, I remained of the mindset that onsight climbing was the ideal, relishing in the little victori
Climbing3 min letti
Spook Book
It’s not the most popular route in the most popular area. It wasn’t put up by the most famous climbers of yesteryear. It’s not the hardest, the gnarliest, or the most splitter. But Spook Book at the Needles in the Kern River Valley of Southern Califo
Climbing2 min letti
Climbing Photo Gallery
As climbers have been getting back to the rock amidst the coronavirus pandemic, social distancing has remained paramount. The isolated Keyhole Canyon, 45 minutes south of Las Vegas, Nevada, makes for the perfect venue. Says Brooke Jackson, who shot t
Climbing3 min letti
The East Face of Liberty Bell
The sheer, 1,300-foot East Face of Liberty Bell (7,740 feet) stands proudly just a short approach above the North Cascades Highway. Liberty Bell itself was first climbed in 1946 (prior to the construction of the highway in 1964) by Fred Beckey, Jerry
Climbing10 min letti
Jimmy Webb
Jimmy Webb started pushing his boundaries by pushing those of his parents. The Maryville, Tennessee, native—now __ and a professional boulderer based out of Sacramento, California—grew up running around creeks and broadleaf hollers in the Appalachian
Climbing10 min letti
The Dark Side of Liberty
“I think there’s a line,” my partner—and new-routing guru—Mikey Schaefer said as we finished up another full day on the East Face of Liberty Bell, at Washington Pass in the North Cascades. Although Mikey and I were based in Oregon, we frequently spen
Climbing16 min letti
The Vertical Mile
A saffron autumn sun sets over Yosemite as shade takes my hanging belay on the West Face of the Leaning Tower. My partner is hooking away with glee on pitch three while I wonder why I’m so unhappy. We’ve got a classic all to ourselves on this Novembe
Climbing4 min letti
Hammers Of The Gods
Tucked cozy in bed, my girlfriend, Kim, and I peered over our billowy white covers and out the window of our third-floor Airbnb. Here in tiny Riglos (pop: 250) in Huesca province in Northern Spain, we were within a stone’s throw of the mighty conglom
Climbing1 min letti
Masthead
EDITOR Matt Samet CONTRIBUTING ART DIRECTOR Lindsay Wescott DIGITAL EDITOR Kevin Corrigan CONTRIBUTING PHOTO EDITOR Mike Mills CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Julie Ellison, Katie Lambert, Andrew Tower ONLINE EDUCATION PRODUCER Ryan Dionne ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER K
Climbing2 min letti
Mya Lixian Gosling: The comedy of Climbing Culture
Climbing gyms have sprouted up across the US—500-plus as of 2020. Yet even as the sport grows, many of the struggles, successes, and absurdities of the gym/climbing culture remain universal. Mya Lixian Gosling, 38, of Ann Arbor, MI, illustrates these
Climbing6 min letti
COVID-19 Hits the Climbing Community
In the United States, which has the highest number of both COVID-19 cases and deaths to date, everyone has been affected by the novel coronavirus, including climbers. Beginning in March, gyms closed, access to climbing areas was restricted, and milli
Climbing3 min letti
The Silver Lining to the Olympic Postponement
Everyone has a moment when the coronavirus appeared on their radar. For me, this was the International Federation of Sport Climbing’s 2020 Pan-American Championship, held at Sender One in Los Angeles from February 27 through March 1. The competition
Climbing3 min letti
What’s Happening at the Crags During the COVID-19 Closures
Acoyote ambles past Smith Rock’s Five Gallon Buckets, one of the most popular 5.8s in the West. A golden eagle floats in a clear sky, eyeing the ground for squirrels. A snake slithers past sagebrush to find a warm spot on a volcanic rock. It is a war
Climbing5 min letti
Summer Crag Kit
Here along Colorado’s Front Range, we have a lot of old-school vert face climbs. But it’s rare to find the requisite shoe that’s not clunky—even on thin face and crack features that demand edging power, you need some sensitivity and smearing. With th
Climbing9 min letti
2020: The Year of the “Comp Shoe”
Once upon a time in the competition world, there was but one style of setting: steep, with small holds. You only needed one pair of shoes to compete—a soft, downturned shoe that was good for grabbing the footholds. In recent years, however, setters l
Climbing6 min letti
Dover Island, Nova Scotia
on’t leave anything undone, because it might not be there next year,” warns Todd Foster, a video editor from Halifax and one of the original developers of Dover Island, Nova Scotia’s granite playground 25 miles from the province’s capital. The uninha
Climbing2 min letti
Torment-Forbidden Traverse
North Cascades National Park, Washington IV 5.6; steep snow One mile Ed Cooper and Walt Sellers; July 1958 Climbing Washington State’s Torment-Forbidden Traverse (TFT) feels like riding the spine of a dragon. The ridge shifts and molts. Water vapor c
Climbing5 min letti
Celibacy Vow
There we were on Bourbon Street in New Orleans, celebrating the dawn of a new millennium on December 31, 1999. Along were some friends, including my climbing partner, all of us sloppy and jovial and bejeweled with beads. We roamed from bar to bar, gu
Climbing6 min letti
Dynoing Master Class
Dynos look simple—just jump to the next hold, right? But as a coach, I’ve seen countless climbers give up on projects within their abilities only because they were stumped by one dynamic move. Alex Stiger, co-head coach and programs director at Movem
Climbing2 min letti
Photo Gallery
On February 7, 2020, Brittany Goris, 27, redpointed the perpetually shady, windwhipped Joshua Tree thin-crack line Stingray (5.13d). The route, a right-leaning finger crack, was originally a 1988 Mike Paul toprope led by Hidetaka Suzuki that same yea
Climbing9 min letti
Brooke Raboutou
Brooke Raboutou grabs a 23mm edge—just 9/10 of an inch—with her left hand and pulls her chin above the wooden hangboard at the Mesa Rim Climbing Center in San Diego, California. Raboutou locks off with one arm, and then lowers slowly back down. It’s
Climbing14 min letti
Wild Kingdom
“Don’t kill your husband, don’t kill yourself.” “Don’t kill your husband, don’t kill yourself.” “Don’t kill your husband, don’t kill yourself.” This mantra looped in my head as I led out on some of the worst stone I’ve encountered in my 24 years of c
Climbing13 min letti
The Croatian Connection
Seven hundred feet of exposure nip at my heels, high on the flanks of Veliki Kuk in Paklenica, Croatia. I’m pumped stupid on the wildly steep crux pitch of Watersong (5.10c), 10 feet up and several feet right of my last bolt, overgripping a slippery
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