Saveur10 min lettiFood & Wine
Front of House
It was two years ago that Christopher Hirsheimer first noticed a for sale sign on the vacant old train station in Milford, New Jersey. She immediately asked Melissa Hamilton, her business partner, to come see the place. “This building—this building—t
Saveur14 min letti
Return To Oaxaca
When my father moved our family from Oaxaca to Los Angeles in 1994, he told us we would only be there for a year. I was 9 years old then, excited to learn a new language and enamored with the America I saw on TV shows like Saved by the Bell and Full
Saveur18 min lettiFood & Wine
Our All-time Best Recipes
If anyone should know if a recipe’s a keeper, it’s the person tasked with making sense of the original instructions—from the far reaches of Sri Lanka, say, or a famous chef who measures nothing. This might explain why many test kitchen staffers named
Saveur2 min letti
Editor’s Note
SO WHERE WAS I 25 YEARS AGO? Right here. Not in the same physical location (Saveur’s got much swankier digs now), and certainly not in the same position atop the masthead. No, back when this magazine launched, I manned the reception desk outside edit
Saveur7 min lettiFood & Wine
Notes From The Test Kitchen
THE BERRIES OF THIS EVERGREEN LEND FLAVOR TO A LOT MORE THAN GIN AND GENEVER THE LAST TIME YOU EXPERIENCED THE PINEY, citrusy flavor of juniper was likely on the business end of a dry martini (see “Genever Is the Original Juniper Spirit,” p. 25). But
Saveur2 min letti
What We Lose When We Lose the Amtrak Dining Car
ALMOST A DECADE AGO, I made two good decisions. The first was to move from New York to New Orleans. The second was to get there by train. I boarded the Crescent at Penn Station, carrying a small, soft-sided cooler that contained a loaf of bread, a st
Saveur2 min lettiScience
Salt Of The Earth
THE TOWN OF CASTRO MARIM IS TUCKED so far east into Portugal that you might hear echoes of Spanish from across the Guadiana River. Though not a famed salt mecca on the order of Guerande, France, or Maldon, England, people here have been transforming
Saveur2 min letti
Can Good Scotch Come from Seattle?
WASHINGTON STATE is admittedly a long way from the Highlands of Scotland. But when Seattle’s Westland Distillery opened in 2010, cofounder and master distiller Matt Hofmann was determined to use the greatest whiskey-making resource the Pacific Northw
Saveur1 min letti
A New Way to Nightcap
For four generations, the Fougerat family has produced single-cask Cognac for larger, blended brands like Martell. But in 2013, 33-year-old scion Fanny—one of the French region’s few female master distillers—broke out and began selling her own undilu
Saveur2 min lettiFood & Wine
Desperately Seeking Cédric
BACK IN AUGUST, Parisian pastry chef Cédric Grolet began teasing his plans to open a boulangerie on Instagram. By late October, when I happened to be in town, the storefront windows at 35 Avenue de l’Opéra were plastered with a larger-than-life photo
Saveur5 min letti
Genever Is the Original Juniper Spirit
A great many things disappear without a trace from our cultural memory, and had there been just a slight shift in the winds of change, we might never have forgotten about genever. After all, if it weren’t for the Netherlands’ losing New York City to
Saveur1 min letti
Two Mixed Drinks That Make the Most of Genever
Adapted from the first American cocktail handbook, this Jerry Thomas drink is emblematic of the mid-19th-century, a time when pineapples were an exotic status symbol. In a cocktail shaker filled with ice cubes, add 1½ ounces Bols genever, ¾ ounce pin
Saveur4 min lettiFood & Wine
Pralines: How They Cook’Em in New Orleans
THIRTY-FIVE YEARS AGO, WHEN LORETTA Harrison opened Loretta’s Authentic Pralines in New Orleans’ old Jax Brewery building, she became the first African-American woman to own and operate a praline company in the Crescent City—a distinction she charact
Saveur7 min lettiFood & Wine
My Father’s French Onion Soup
My father gave me his letters from paris. Written with a fountain pen on onionskin stationery and folded in envelopes marked Par Avion, these formative accounts were addressed to my grandmother, and mailed during the year he studied art in Montparnas
Saveur4 min lettiFood & Wine
10 Things We Learned from the Season’s Best Books
It may seem that fat, flour, and some patient stirring are all that go into this building block of Louisiana cooking. But Justin Devillier, chef-owner of Magazine Street’s La Petit Grocery, gives no fewer than three methods in The New Orleans Kitchen
Saveur33 min lettiFood & Wine
25 Years of Saveur
IN EARLY NOVEMBER 1993, I was eking out a living as a freelance writer in Santa Monica when I received a call from Dorothy Kalins, who’d given me lots of work during her tenure editing Metropolitan Home. “I’ve found us a new magazine,” Dorothy announ
Saveur9 min letti
The Time Of Our Lives
• Saveur is born! The magazine launches with an editorial staff of 11, a cover story on Oaxaca, and an editorial advisory board that includes Marion Cunningham, Sheila Lukins, and Alice Waters. • The Food Network celebrates its one-year anniversary.
Saveur13 min lettiFood & Wine
There and Back
Every meal at Milli begins with a complimentary chalupa. One of the cooks griddles a small, handmade corn tortilla atop a hot comal until it’s bronzed on both sides, then layers it with smoky red salsa and homemade queso fresco. It’s a humble gift—an
Saveur8 min lettiFood & Wine
At The BAYOU’S EDGE
AT THE END OF THE LAND IN SOUTHERN LOUISIANA, water sloshes at the sides of the road, creeping into parking lots and backyards and beneath houses on stilts. Wetlands and fishing docks splay out into the Gulf of Mexico, narrowing the divide between so
Saveur2 min lettiFood & Wine
Food Moves Us Closer
WE CAN NEVER LEARN ENOUGH about one another’s cultures. Although there is beauty in our individuality as nations, regions, and families, making an effort to know more about each other is the ultimate path toward kinship and unity. What we’ve already
Saveur5 min letti
Notes From The Test Kitchen
IF IT’S UNLIKELY THAT YOU WILL FIND yourself in Fall River, Massachusetts, to visit Portugalia Marketplace (see “Conservas, Olives, and Salt Cod,” p. 22), you need not miss out on the best selection of Portuguese specialties this side of the Atlantic
Saveur2 min lettiFood & Wine
Canada’s Brisket Whisperer
ON THE CORNER OF an otherwise indistinguishable big-box strip mall in Markham, a suburb of Toronto, you’ll see signs for a Jewish delicatessen. It’s a predominantly Chinese neighborhood, but Sumith Fernando, a Roman Catholic Sri Lankan immigrant, saw
Saveur2 min letti
The French Bitter That Took Nevada
I’D BEEN IN ELKO, NEVADA, for less than an hour, and I’d already broken a rule. I had come to the Star Hotel, a century-old restaurant and former boarding house for cattle ranchers, in search of the Picon punch. There it was, advertised on a chalkboa
Saveur3 min lettiFood & Wine
A Long And Winding Road
In my kitchen in Oakland, California, I preheated my cast-iron comal and slipped a pat of butter onto the surface. I’d just gotten home from New Orleans, where at an artisanal bakery I’d purchased a mallorca, a sweet spiral bun made by a baker from P
Saveur2 min letti
The Booza Boom
THE POUNDING OF BOOZA is a spectacle worth lining up for. Though the word means “ice cream” in Levantine Arabic, today it mostly refers to the Syrian version, a combination of milk with sahlab or salep (a starchy orchid-root flour) and mastic gum (a
Saveur2 min letti
Conservas, Olives, and Salt Cod
“THIS IS NOT ENTRY-LEVEL FISH,” says a smiling Michael Benevides, standing in what has to be the United States’ largest purpose-built bacalhau chamber. It occupies one end of Portugalia Marketplace, the emporium Benevides opened with his father, Fern
Saveur4 min letti
Cannoli, Grandpa’s Way
CANNOLI HAVE ALWAYS BEEN a fixture in Angie Rito’s family, thanks to her Sicilian grandfather Santo. At age 8, he worked at a tiny pastry shop in Riposto, on the island’s eastern coast. His first task was mixing cannoli dough. “Back then, the shop wa
Saveur7 min letti
The Real Pad Thai
PAD THAI MIGHT JUST BE Thailand’s most famous export. The lightly sweet, peanut-topped noodle dish can be found in nearly every Thai restaurant around the world. And while it has been endlessly adapted (some might say bastardized) to appeal to the gl
Saveur7 min lettiFood & Wine
Mexico’s Party Food
EVERY TIME STEVE SANDO, THE founder of California-based heirloom bean company Rancho Gordo, heads down to Mexico, he encounters a new kind of pozole. “I remember one I tasted in Oaxaca where the cooks used some puréed hominy to thicken the broth and
Saveur6 min letti
Stacked in Your Favor
PARATHAS ARE THE STUFF of my carb-filled dreams. The soft, layered Indian breads were a staple of my childhood in Dallas—most commonly stuffed with spiced, mashed potatoes and made by my Aunt Rachna. I remember sitting at her kitchen table, mesmerize
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