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Tidal currents have speeds up to 5m/s in coastal waters Tidal currents have speeds up to 5m/s in coastal waters
Tidal currents generate internal waves over various Tidal currents generate internal waves over various
topographies. topographies.
The Earth's crust bends under tidal forces. The Earth's crust bends under tidal forces.
Tides influence the orbits of satellites. Tides influence the orbits of satellites.
Tidal forces are important in solar and galactic dynamics. Tidal forces are important in solar and galactic dynamics.
Tidal Analysis Long History
Tidal Analysis Long History
Mariners know tides are related to the moons phases Mariners know tides are related to the moons phases
Some of the first computers were developed to predict Some of the first computers were developed to predict
tides. tides.
Tide-predicting machines were developed and used to Tide-predicting machines were developed and used to
predict tidal constituents. predict tidal constituents.
Rise and fall of the sea is sometimes called a tide; Now, Rise and fall of the sea is sometimes called a tide; Now,
we find there a good ten feet rise and fall, and yet we are we find there a good ten feet rise and fall, and yet we are
authoritatively told there is very little tide. authoritatively told there is very little tide.
The truth is, the word "tide" as used by sailors at sea means The truth is, the word "tide" as used by sailors at sea means
horizontal horizontal motion of the water; but when used by motion of the water; but when used by
landsmen or sailors in port, it means landsmen or sailors in port, it means vertical vertical motion of the motion of the
water. water.
One of the most interesting points of tidal theory is the One of the most interesting points of tidal theory is the
determination of the currents by which the rise and fall is determination of the currents by which the rise and fall is
produced, and so far the sailor's idea of what is most produced, and so far the sailor's idea of what is most
noteworthy as to tidal motion is correct: because before noteworthy as to tidal motion is correct: because before
there can be a rise and fall of the water anywhere it must there can be a rise and fall of the water anywhere it must
come from some other place, and the water cannot pass come from some other place, and the water cannot pass
from place to place without moving horizontally, or nearly from place to place without moving horizontally, or nearly
horizontally, through a great distance. Thus the primary horizontally, through a great distance. Thus the primary
phenomenon of the tides is after all the tidal current; phenomenon of the tides is after all the tidal current;
The Tides The Tides, Sir William Thomson (Lord Kelvin) 1882, , Sir William Thomson (Lord Kelvin) 1882,
Evening Lecture To The British Association Evening Lecture To The British Association
Tidal Analysis Hard
Tidal Analysis Hard
Problem!
Problem!
Centripetal acceleration Centripetal acceleration at Earth's surface drives water at Earth's surface drives water
toward the side of Earth opposite the moon. toward the side of Earth opposite the moon.
Gravitational attraction Gravitational attraction causes water to be attracted causes water to be attracted
toward the moon. toward the moon.
If the Earth were an ocean planet with deep oceans: If the Earth were an ocean planet with deep oceans:
There would be two bulges of water on Earth, There would be two bulges of water on Earth,
one on the side facing the moon, one on the opposite side. one on the side facing the moon, one on the opposite side.
Gravitational
Gravitational
Potential
Potential
Terms: Force = gradient of potential Terms: Force = gradient of potential
1. No force 1. No force
2. Constant Force orbital motion 2. Constant Force orbital motion
3. Tidal Potential 3. Tidal Potential
2 2 2
1
1
, 2 cos
M
GM
V r r R rR
r
+
2
2
1
1 cos (cos 1)
2
M
GM r r
V
R R R
_
_
+ + +
,
,
L
Tidal Buldges
Tidal Buldges
The tidal potential is symmetric about the Earth- The tidal potential is symmetric about the Earth-
moon line, and it produces symmetric bulges. moon line, and it produces symmetric bulges.
vertical forces produces very small changes in the vertical forces produces very small changes in the
weight of the oceans. It is very small compared to weight of the oceans. It is very small compared to
gravity, and it can be ignored. gravity, and it can be ignored.
High Tides
High Tides
Allow the Earth to rotate, Allow the Earth to rotate,
An observer in space sees two bulges fixed relative An observer in space sees two bulges fixed relative
to the Earth-moon line as Earth rotates. to the Earth-moon line as Earth rotates.
An observer on Earth sees the two tidal bulges An observer on Earth sees the two tidal bulges
rotate around Earth as moon moves one cycle per rotate around Earth as moon moves one cycle per
day. day.
The moon produces high tides every 12 hours and The moon produces high tides every 12 hours and
25.23 minutes on the equator if it is above the 25.23 minutes on the equator if it is above the
equator. equator.
High tides are not exactly twice per day High tides are not exactly twice per day
the moon rotates around Earth. the moon rotates around Earth.
the moon is above the equator only twice per the moon is above the equator only twice per
lunar month, complicating the simple picture of lunar month, complicating the simple picture of
the tides on an ideal ocean-covered Earth. the tides on an ideal ocean-covered Earth.
the moon's distance from Earth varies since the the moon's distance from Earth varies since the
moon's orbit is elliptical and changing moon's orbit is elliptical and changing
Lunar and Solar Tidal Forces
Lunar and Solar Tidal Forces
Solar tidal forces are similar
Solar tidal forces are similar
Horizontal Components K
Horizontal Components K
S S
/K
/K
M M
= 0.46051
= 0.46051
Thus, need to know relative positions of sun
Thus, need to know relative positions of sun
and moon!
and moon!
2
3
2 3
sin 2 ,
4
K GM r
H K
r R
_
,
Locating the Sun and the
Locating the Sun and the
Moon
Moon
Terminology Celestial Mechanics
Terminology Celestial Mechanics
Declination
Declination
Vernal Equinox
Vernal Equinox
Right Ascension
Right Ascension
Tidal Frequencies
Tidal Frequencies
cos sin sin cos cos cos( 180 )
p p
+
p
is latitude at which the tidal potential is
calculated,
is declination of moon (or sun) north of the
equator,
is the hour angle of moon (or sun).
Solar Motion
Solar Motion
The rotation of the ecliptic plane causes and the vernal equinox to
change slowly
Earth's orbit about the sun is elliptical causing perigee to rotate with a
period of 20,900 years.
Therefore R
S
varies with this period.
Lunar Motion
Lunar Motion
The perigee rotates with a period of 8.85 years. The eccentricity has a
mean value of 0.0549, and it varies between 0.044 and 0.067.
The plane of moon's orbit rotates around Earth's axis of with a period of
17.613 years.
These processes cause variations in R
M
Tidal Potential Periods
Tidal Potential Periods
2 2
2
3
2 2
(3sin 1)(3sin 1)
3sin 2 sin 2 cos
4
3cos cos cos 2
p
p
p
GMr
V
R
1
1
+
1
1
+
1
]
Lunar Tidal Potential - periods near 14 days, 24 hours, and
12 hours
Solar Tidal Potential - periods near 180 days, 24 hours, and
12 hours
Doodson (1922) - Fourier Series Expansion using 6
frequencies
Doodsons Frequencies
Doodsons Frequencies
Frequency
(/hour)
Period Source
f
1
14.49205211 1 lunar day Local mean lunar
time
f
2
0.54901653 1 month Moon's mean
longitude
f
3
0.04106864 1year Sun's mean
longitude
f
4
>0.00464184 8.847 years Longitude of
Moon's perigee
f
5
-0.00220641 18.613 years Longitude of
Moon's ascending
node
f
6
0.00000196 20,940 years Longitude of
sun's perigee
1 1 2 2 3 3 4 4 5 5 6 6
f n f n f n f n f n f n f + + + + +
Tidal Species Name n
1
n
2
n
3
n
4
n
5
Equilibrium Amplitude*
(m)
Period
(hr)
Semidiurnal n
1
= 2
Principal lunar M
2
2 0 0 0 0 0.242334 12.4206
Principal solar S
2
2 2 -2 0 0 0.112841 12.0000
Lunar elliptic N
2
2 -1 0 1 0 0.046398 12.6584
Lunisolar K
2
2 2 0 0 0 0.030704 11.9673
Diurnal n
1
=1
Lunisolar K
1
1 1 0 0 0 0.141565 23.9344
Principal lunar O
1
1 -1 0 0 0 0.100514 25.8194
Principal solar P
1
1 1 -2 0 0 0.046843 24.0659
Elliptic lunar >Q
1
1 -2 0 1 0 0.019256 26.8684
Long Period n
1
= 0
Fortnightly M
f
0 2 0 0 0 0.041742 327.85
Monthly M
m
0 1 0 -1 0 0.022026 661.31
Semiannual S
sa
0 0 2 0 0 0.019446 4383.05
The Tidal Constituents
The Tidal Constituents
Constituent Splitting
Constituent Splitting
Doodson's expansion:399 constituents,
100 are long period, 160 are daily, 115 are twice per day,
and 14 are thrice per day. Most have very small amplitudes.
Sir George Darwin named the largest tides.
How to Obtain Constituents
How to Obtain Constituents
Fourier (Spectral) Analysis
Fourier (Spectral) Analysis
Harmonic Analysis
Harmonic Analysis
Fourier Analysis In the
Fourier Analysis In the
beginning
beginning
1742 dAlembert solved wave equation
1742 dAlembert solved wave equation
1749 Leonhard Euler plucked string
1749 Leonhard Euler plucked string
1753 Daniel Bernoulli solutions are
1753 Daniel Bernoulli solutions are
superpositions of harmonics
superpositions of harmonics
1807 - Joseph Fourier solved heat equation
1807 - Joseph Fourier solved heat equation
Problems lead to modern analysis!
Problems lead to modern analysis!
1
( , 0) sin
k
k
k x
y x a
L
1
( , ) sin cos
k
k
k x k ct
y x t a
L L
Adding Sine Waves
Adding Sine Waves
Spectral Theory
Spectral Theory
Fourier Series
Fourier Series
Spectrum Analysis
Spectrum Analysis
Harmonic Analysis
Harmonic Analysis
+
=
Fourier Series
Fourier Series
Fourier Series
Eigenfunctions :
L 2 : c x n , ( ) cos
n x
L
,
: s x n , ( ) sin
n x
L
,
:
Function: f x ( ) sin x ( ) 2 cos 2x ( ) + : x 0 .1 , L .. :
Fourier Coefficients:
a
0
1
2L
L
L
x f x ( )
d :
N 8 : n 1 N .. :
a n ( )
1
L
L
L
x f x ( ) c x n , ( )
d :
b n ( )
1
L
L
L
x f x ( ) s x n , ( )
d :
Reconstruction
Reconstruction
2
0
a n ( )
8 1 n
2
0
b n ( )
8 1 n
2
0
a n ( )
2
b n ( )
2
+
8 1 n
F x ( ) a
0
n
a n ( ) c x n , ( ) b n ( ) s x n , ( ) + ( )
+ :
Fourier Expansion:
3
3
f x ( )
F x ( )
2
0 x
Comparison
between
f(x) and F(x)
Power Spectrum
Analog Signals
Analog Signals
Analog Signals
Analog Signals
0
1
1
( ) [ cos( ) sin( )],
2
M
n p p p p
p
f t A A t B t
+ +
,
n
t n t
,
T
t
N
2
.
p
pn
t
T
and
DFT Discrete Fourier
DFT Discrete Fourier
Transform
Transform
2
1
2
( ) cos( ), 1, 1
2
N
pn
p n N
n
N
A y t p
N
N
n
N
pn
n p
N
p t y
N
B
1
2
1
2
, 2 , 1 ), sin( ) (
2
N
n
n
t y
N
A
1
0
), (
1
N
n
n N
n t y
N
A
1
2
), cos( ) (
1
0
2
0
N
B B
Matlab Implementation
Matlab Implementation
y=[7.6 7.4 8.2 9.2 10.2 11.5 12.4 13.4 13.7 11.8 10.1 ... y=[7.6 7.4 8.2 9.2 10.2 11.5 12.4 13.4 13.7 11.8 10.1 ...
9.0 8.9 9.5 10.6 11.4 12.9 12.7 13.9 14.2 13.5 11.4 10.9 8.1]; 9.0 8.9 9.5 10.6 11.4 12.9 12.7 13.9 14.2 13.5 11.4 10.9 8.1];
N=length(y); N=length(y);
% Compute the matrices of trigonometric functions % Compute the matrices of trigonometric functions
p=1:N/2+1; p=1:N/2+1;
n=1:N; n=1:N;
C=cos(2*pi*n'*(p-1)/N); C=cos(2*pi*n'*(p-1)/N);
S=sin(2*pi*n'*(p-1)/N); S=sin(2*pi*n'*(p-1)/N);
% Compute Fourier Coefficients % Compute Fourier Coefficients
A=2/N*y*C; A=2/N*y*C;
B=2/N*y*S; B=2/N*y*S;
A(N/2+1)=A(N/2+1)/2; A(N/2+1)=A(N/2+1)/2;
% Reconstruct Signal - pmax is number of frequencies used in increasing % Reconstruct Signal - pmax is number of frequencies used in increasing
order order
pmax=13; pmax=13;
ynew=A(1)/2+C(:,2:pmax)*A(2:pmax)'+S(:,2:pmax)*B(2:pmax)'; ynew=A(1)/2+C(:,2:pmax)*A(2:pmax)'+S(:,2:pmax)*B(2:pmax)';
% Plot Data % Plot Data
plot(y,'o') plot(y,'o')
% Plot reconstruction over data % Plot reconstruction over data
hold on hold on
plot(ynew,'r') plot(ynew,'r')
hold off hold off
DFT Example
DFT Example
Monthly mean surface temperature ( Monthly mean surface temperature (
o o
C) on the west coast C) on the west coast
of Canada January 1982-December 1983 (Emery and of Canada January 1982-December 1983 (Emery and
Thompson) Thompson)
Fourier Coefficients
Fourier Coefficients
Periodogram Power
Periodogram Power
Spectrum
Spectrum
Reconstruction
Reconstruction
Reconstruction with 3
Reconstruction with 3
Frequencies
Frequencies
Harmonic Analysis
Harmonic Analysis
Consider a set of data consisting of
Consider a set of data consisting of
N
N
values at equally spaced times,
values at equally spaced times,
We seek the best approximation
We seek the best approximation
using
using
M
M
given frequencies.
given frequencies.
The unknown parameters in this
The unknown parameters in this
case are the As and Bs.
case are the As and Bs.
0
1
( ) [ cos(2 ) sin(2 )]
M
k k k k
k
y t A A f t B f t
+ +
Linear Regression
Linear Regression
Minimize
Minimize
Normal Equations
Normal Equations
2
2
0
1 1
[ ( ) ( [ cos(2 ) sin(2 )])]
N M
n k k n k k n
n k
e y t A A f t B f t
+ +
2
0
1 1
0 2 [ ( ) ( [ cos(2 ) sin(2 )])]( cos(2 )), 1, ,
N M
n k k k k q
n k
q
e n n n
y t A A f B f f q M
A N N N
+ +
K
2
0
1 1
0 2 [ ( ) ( [ cos(2 ) sin(2 )])]( sin(2 )), 1, ,
N M
n k k k k q
n k
q
e n n n
y t A A f B f f k M
B N N N
+ +
K
System of Equations
System of Equations
DZ=Y
DZ=Y
1
( )
( )
N
y t
y
y t
_
,
M
, ,
y
A
Y Cy Z
B
Sy
_
_
,
,
1 1
,
N N
q qn q qn
n n
c C s S
T T
N c s
D c CC CS
s CS SS
_
,
cos(2 ), 1, , , 1, ,
qn k n
C f t q M n N K K
sin(2 ), 1, , , 1, ,
qn k n
S f t q M n N K K
( )
1
cos(2 ) cos(2 )
N
T
k n q n
qk
n
CC f t f t
( )
1
sin(2 ) cos(2 )
N
T
k n q n
qk
n
CS f t f t
( )
1
sin(2 )sin(2 ) .
N
T
k n q n
qk
n
SS f t f t
Matlab Implementation
Matlab Implementation
DZ=Y
DZ=Y
y=[7.6 7.4 8.2 9.2 10.2 11.5 12.4 13.4 13.7 11.8 10.1 ... y=[7.6 7.4 8.2 9.2 10.2 11.5 12.4 13.4 13.7 11.8 10.1 ...
9.0 8.9 9.5 10.6 11.4 12.9 12.7 13.9 14.2 13.5 11.4 10.9 8.1]; 9.0 8.9 9.5 10.6 11.4 12.9 12.7 13.9 14.2 13.5 11.4 10.9 8.1];
N=length(y); N=length(y);
% Number of Harmonics Desired and frequency dt % Number of Harmonics Desired and frequency dt
M=2; f=1/12*(1:M); T=24; alpha=f*T; M=2; f=1/12*(1:M); T=24; alpha=f*T;
% Compute the matrices of trigonometric functions % Compute the matrices of trigonometric functions
n=1:N; n=1:N;
C=cos(2*pi*alpha'*n/N); S=sin(2*pi*alpha'*n/N); C=cos(2*pi*alpha'*n/N); S=sin(2*pi*alpha'*n/N);
c_row=ones(1,N)*C'; s_row=ones(1,N)*S'; c_row=ones(1,N)*C'; s_row=ones(1,N)*S';
D(1,1)=N; D(1,1)=N;
D(1,2:M+1)=c_row; D(1,2:M+1)=c_row;
D(1,M+2:2*M+1)=s_row; D(1,M+2:2*M+1)=s_row;
D(2:M+1,1)=c_row'; D(2:M+1,1)=c_row';
D(M+2:2*M+1,1)=s_row'; D(M+2:2*M+1,1)=s_row';
D(2:M+1,2:M+1)=C*C'; D(2:M+1,2:M+1)=C*C';
D(M+2:2*M+1,2:M+1)=S*C'; D(M+2:2*M+1,2:M+1)=S*C';
D(2:M+1,M+2:2*M+1)=C*S'; D(2:M+1,M+2:2*M+1)=C*S';
D(M+2:2*M+1,M+2:2*M+1)=S*S'; D(M+2:2*M+1,M+2:2*M+1)=S*S';
yy(1,1)=sum(y); yy(1,1)=sum(y);
yy(2:M+1)=y*C'; yy(2:M+1)=y*C';
yy(M+2:2*M+1)=y*S'; yy(M+2:2*M+1)=y*S';
z=D^(-1)*yy'; z=D^(-1)*yy';
Harmonic Analysis Example
Harmonic Analysis Example
Frequencies 0.0183 cpmo, 0.167 cpmo
Frequencies 0.0183 cpmo, 0.167 cpmo
Reconstruction
Reconstruction
Example 2
Example 2
data = DLMREAD('tidedat1.txt'); data = DLMREAD('tidedat1.txt');
N=length(data); N=length(data);
t=data(1:N,1); % time t=data(1:N,1); % time
r=data(1:N,2); % height r=data(1:N,2); % height
ymean=mean(r); % calculate average ymean=mean(r); % calculate average
ynorm=r-ymean; % subtract out average ynorm=r-ymean; % subtract out average
y=ynorm'; % height' y=ynorm'; % height'
dt=t(2)-t(1); dt=t(2)-t(1);
T=t(N); T=t(N);
% Number of Harmonics Desired and frequency dt % Number of Harmonics Desired and frequency dt
M=8; M=8;
TideNames=['M2','N2','K1','S2','O1','P1','K2','Q1']; TideNames=['M2','N2','K1','S2','O1','P1','K2','Q1'];
TidePeriods=[12.42 12.66 23.93 12 25.82 24.07 TidePeriods=[12.42 12.66 23.93 12 25.82 24.07
11.97 26.87]; 11.97 26.87];
f=1./TidePeriods; f=1./TidePeriods;
Data
Data
Harmonic Amplitudes
Harmonic Amplitudes
Power Spectrum
Power Spectrum
Frequency
Frequency
Periodogram - Period
Periodogram - Period
Names =['M2', 'N2', 'K1', 'S2', 'O1', 'P1', 'K2', 'Q1']; Names =['M2', 'N2', 'K1', 'S2', 'O1', 'P1', 'K2', 'Q1'];
Periods=[12.42 12.66 23.93 12 25.82 24.07 11.97 26.87]; Periods=[12.42 12.66 23.93 12 25.82 24.07 11.97 26.87];
Current Analysis
Current Analysis
2 2
( ) ( ) ( )( )
u v u v
f
U V U V
+ +
2 cos( )
2
sin ( ). f
Coordinate Transformation
Coordinate Transformation
cos sin u p q
sin cos . v p q +
2 2
2 cos( )
tan(2 ) ,
UV
U V
2 2
2 2
1,
p q
a b
+
2
2
2 2 2 2
( sin( ))
cos sin 2 cos sin cos( )
UV
a
V U UV
+
2
2
2 2 2 2
( sin( ))
.
sin cos 2 cos sin cos( )
UV
b
V U UV
+ +
Goals
Goals
Maximum Current Velocity Semi-major
Maximum Current Velocity Semi-major
axis
axis
Eccentricity Ratio of semi-minor axis to
Eccentricity Ratio of semi-minor axis to
semimajor axis
semimajor axis
Inclination Angle semi-major axis makes
Inclination Angle semi-major axis makes
to East
to East
Phase Angle Time of maximum velocity
Phase Angle Time of maximum velocity
with respect to Greenwich time
with respect to Greenwich time
Ellipses and Phasors
Ellipses and Phasors
cos , sin . x a t y b t
1 2
1 2
cos( ) cos( ),
sin( ) sin( ).
x r t r t
y r t r t
+
+
Any ellipse centered at the origin can be found from the sum of Any ellipse centered at the origin can be found from the sum of
two counter rotating phasors. two counter rotating phasors.
Rotated Ellipse
Rotated Ellipse
cos sin cos cos sin sin
sin cos sin cos cos sin
u x a t b t
v y a t b t
1 1 1 1
1 1 1 1
+
] ] ] ]
1 2
1 2
cos( ) cos( )
cos( ) cos( )
2 2
.
sin( ) sin( )
sin( ) sin( )
2 2
a b a b
t t
r t r t u
r t r t v a b a b
t t
+
1
+ +
1
+ +
1 1
1
1 1
+ + +
] ] 1
+ +
1
]
Changing the Initial Phasors
Changing the Initial Phasors
cos ' sin u A t A t +
1 1 2 2
1 1 2 2
cos( ) cos( )
sin( ) sin( ).
u r t r t
v r t r t
+ + + + +
+ + + + +
1 1 2 2 1 1 2 2
1 1 2 2 1 1 2 2
( cos( ) cos( )) cos ( sin( ) sin( )) sin ,
( sin( ) sin( )) cos ( cos( ) cos( )) sin .
u r r t r r t
v r r t r r t
+ + + + + + +
+ + + + + +
cos ' sin v B t B t +
Relation to Current Ellipses
Relation to Current Ellipses
1 1 2 2
1 1 2 2
1 1 2 2
1 1 2 2
cos cos( ) cos( ),
' sin sin( ) sin( ),
cos sin( ) sin( ),
' sin cos( ) cos( ).
A U r r
A U r r
B V r r
B V r r
+ + +
+ + +
+ + +
+ +
cos( )
cos( )
u U t
v V t
Rotated Ellipse
Rotated Ellipse
2 2 2
1
2 2 2
2
1
( ') ( ') ,
4
1
( ') ( ' ) .
4
r A B B A
r A B A B
1 + +
]
1 + +
]
'
tan ,
'
'
tan .
'
p
m
B A
A B
A B
A B
+
+
2 2
tan tan
2 cos( )
tan( )
1 tan tan
p m
p m
p m
UV
U V
+
+
1 2
1
( )
2 2
p m
INC
+
+ +
1 p
+
2 m
+
.
2 1
m p
1
( )
2
p m
PHA
max max p m
t t + +
Summary
Summary
History of Tides
History of Tides
Fourier Analysis DFT
Fourier Analysis DFT
Harmonic Analysis Wave Heights
Harmonic Analysis Wave Heights
Harmonic Analysis Currents
Harmonic Analysis Currents
Ellipse Parameters
Ellipse Parameters
Bibliography
Bibliography
W.J. Emery and R.E. Thompson, W.J. Emery and R.E. Thompson, Data Analysis Methods in Physical Data Analysis Methods in Physical
Oceanography Oceanography, 2001. , 2001.
G. Godin, G. Godin, The Analysis of Tides The Analysis of Tides, 1972. , 1972.
R. H. Stewart, R. H. Stewart, Introduction to Physical Oceanography Introduction to Physical Oceanography, 1997, Open , 1997, Open
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Epicycloid
Epicycloid
( ) ( ) cos cos( )
( ) ( ) sin sin( )
a b
x t a b t b t
b
a b
y t a b t b t
b
+
+
+
+