Clothing material FST-503 and 053

By Gurumurthy.B.R E-mail: brgmurthyfad@yahoo.com/ gurumurthy.15701@lpu.co.in

Introduction to Textile Fiber

Textile fibers

Textile Fibers are used for

Covering Warmth Personal adornment Display personal wealth

Consumers of Textile fibers

Different kinds of merchandisers Wholesale textile manufacturers Retail store Automobile Industry Home makers Dressmakers Interior decorators Retail store customers Occupations of textiles and related profession

Significance of Textile fibers

Judge Fashion/Apparels/Fabrics Intelligent appraisal of brands of merchandise Measure Quality in fabrics Knowledge of buying

Economics of Textile fiber

Influences petroleum industry Retail apparel stores Have produced broader employment opportunities Competition for the consumers dollar New fiber blends have been created

continued

New finishes and characteristics of fibers, yarns and fabrics Fiber information is used for utilitarian benefits like Economy,serviceability,durability,comfor t as well as aesthetic values like hand(or feel), texture, design and color.

continued

Fabric buyers Designers Production managers Sales persons., etc., Fiber is converted to yarn and then fabric by process known as spinning, weaving and knitting.

Textile industry its range and markets

A complex industry Begins with agriculture cotton, flax and others Animals Husbandry, wool and silkworms Mining Metals and Minerals Forests wood Chemical research Production of synthetics

Technical definition of Fiber

A unit of matter made up of long chain of molecules characterized by flexibiltiy,fineness and high length to width ratio.

Fiber Natural Man-made

Kinds of Fibers

Different kinds of fibers Fibers are known from earlier years of civilization as well as in modern times Other fibers have acquired varied degrees of importance in recent years

Factors influencing fiber utilisation

Ability to be spun Availability in sufficient quantity Their cost or economy of production Desirability of their properties to consumers

Types of Fiber
Fiber Staple Fiber Cotton Polyester Filament Fiber Silk Nylon

Classification of Natural Fibers

Natural Fiber

Vegetable Fiber

Animal Fiber

Mineral Fiber

Cotton

Wool

Asbestos

Jute

Silk

Glass

Linen

Metal

Classification of Man Made Fiber

Man Made Fiber Regenerated Fiber Viscose Acetate Synthetic Fiber Polyester Nylon

Primary Properties

Length to width ratio Tenacity(strength) Flexibility(pliability) Acceptable extensibility for processing Cohesion Uniformity of properties

Secondary Properties

Physical shape (cross-section, surface contour, etc) Specific gravity Influence weight ,cover,etc,) Moisture regain and Moisture absorption(comfort,static electricity,etc) Elastic character Tensile and Compression) Thermoplasticity(softening point and Heat set character) Dyeability Resistance to solvents, corrosive chemicals, microorganisms and environmental conditions Flammability Lustre

Primary features of fibers

Price Water imbibition Elasticity Elongation Strength Length Fineness

Secondary features of fibers

Aesthetic appearance Light stability Fatigue resistance Flammability Softening point Wicking Pilling Crease recovery Crease resistance

Continued

Drape and Handle Bulking power Laundering Static Dye affinity Abrasion resistance

Cross-section shapes
Cross-section type Flat, oval Oval, round Triangular, round edge, Ribbon shaped Circular Dog bone lobular Trilobal Y-shaped Circular,seratted Length wise striations Length wise striations Uniform in diameter Description With lumen convolutions Overlapping scales, medulla uniform in manmade Fibers Cotton Wool Silk,nylon,dacron Dynel Nylon,Dacron,cuprammonium rayon Orlon,verel,lycra acetate Antron,nylon Celecloud type 20 Acetate,cumuloft nylon Viscose rayon

General Fibre characteristics

External structure 1. length (short staple 0.5-2.5 inches, long staple > 2 inch ) 2. Diameter (natural 10-20 microns, manufactured 10-50 microns) 3. Cross-sectional shape 4. Crimp 5. Color

General Fiber characteristics

Internal structure

1.Chemical compositon (sequence and kind of atoms in structure) 2.Crystanillity (Polymer chains and sections packed together) 3.Orientation (alignment of chains along fiber axis)

General fiber characterstics

Thermal Properties

1.Melting Temperature 2. Glass Transition Temperature ( most polymers are thermoplastic they soften before melting)

General Fiber characteristics

Physical Properties

1.Breaking Strength force required to break a fiber 2. Breaking elongation- Amount of stretch before breaking 3. Modulus Resistance to deformation 4. Toughness Amount of energy absorbed 5. Elasticity Ability to recover after being deformed

General Fiber characteristics

Chemical Properties 1.Density 2.Moisture regain 3.Chemical resistance 4.Dyeability

Cotton fiber

The cotton flower

Cotton Fiber

The cotton bolls

Cotton picking

Cotton fiber

Cotton harvesting

Cotton bale

Cotton fiber

Cotton fiber cross section

Cotton fiber

Cotton fiber longitudinal view

Cotton

Advantages Absorbent Cool Comfortable to wear Durable Economical Does not melt

Cotton:limitations

Wrinkles unless treated Susceptable to mildew and strong acids May scorch

Cotton

Cotton is hypoallergic since it does not irritate sensitive skin or cause allergies Cotton softness makes it a preferred fabric for underwear and other garments worn next to skin Cotton adaptability allows it to blend easily with most other fibers including such as polyester and lycra Cotton is one of the easiest fabrics to dye, making it very popular with fashion and home wear designers

Cotton

Cotton can be given a coating or finish. For example. ,Cotton used in fire fighting uniforms is coated and finished with proban, a flame retardant chemical treatment. Durable press is a chemical treatment given to cotton to eliminate creasing and reduce the need to iron. It retains specific contours such as creases and pleats to be resistant to normal usage, washing or dry cleaning. Cotton has a high absorbency rate and holds upto 27 times its own weight in cotton.

Cotton

Cotton also becomes stronger when wet Cottons strength and absorbency make it an ideal fabric for medical and personal hygiene products such as bandages and swabs Terry cloth is a common fabric used to make common items such as towels. It can be washed in very hot water and with strong bleach or detergent Cotton keeps the body cool in summer and warm in winter because it is good conductor of heat

Cotton

Cotton is often used in the manufacture of curtains, tents and tarpaulins as it is not easily damaged by sunlight Cotton breathes easily as a result of its unique fiber structure. This attribute makes the wearer more comfortable when compared to other artificial fibers Unlike synthetic fibers cotton is a natural product and contains no chemicals

Cotton Products

All most all parts of cotton plant is used in some way including the cotton seed, lint (raw cotton fiber), stalk and hull (shell). Popular uses for cotton fiber include clothing apparels, home furnishings and industrial/medical products such as tents, bandages and cotton swabs Well known cotton fiber products include denim jeans,socks,towels,t-shirts,bedsheets and underwear cotton fiber can be woven or knitted to fabrics such as velvet, corduroy,chambray,velour,jersey and flannel

Cotton products

Linters are very short fibers that remain on the cotton seed after ginning. Once removed and processed the linters are used to produce goods such as bandages, cotton buds and x-rays. The fibers from one cotton 227 kg bale can produce 215 pairs of jeans,250 single bed sheets,750 shirts, 1200 t-shirts,2,100 pairs of boxer shorts,3,000 nappies,4,300 pairs of socks or 680,000 cotton balls.

Flex/Linen

Linen Advantages Best wicking of natural fibers: therefore cool to wear Dries quickly Natural, soft sheen Strong and durable Does not melt

Flax/linen

The flax/linen plant

Flax/linen

The Flax flower

Cross-section of Flax/linen

Flax/Linen

Linen fiber is obtained from the stalk of flax plant The hair like fibers are held together by a gummy substance called pectin Lumen in composed of about 70 % cellulose 30 % pectin, ash, woody tissue, moisture

Flax/linen

Linen fiber is relatively smooth, straight and lustrous Linen fiber is more brittle ad less flexible than cotton Linen yarn is very strong, lustrous Linen yarn is used for Apparel, Home furnishings,upholstry

Flax/linen

Retting of Flax/linen

Linen : limitations

Wrinkles badly unless treated Susceptable to mildew and strong acids Color frosts on creases May be weakened on repeated creasing in the same place May scorch

Silk

Silk cocoons

Silk

Silk reeled hank

Silk

Silk fiber is a fine continuous strand unwound from the cocoon of a moth caterpillar known as the silkworm Silk worms are cultivated and also wild( tussah) (Produces a coarser fiber) Silk is essentially composed of protein Silk fiber is relatively lustrous, smooth, lightweight, strong and elastic Silk fiber is used for apparel, home furnishings and upholstery

Silk

Silk Advantages
Luxurious Light weight Dyes in beautiful rich colors Absorbent Strong Moderately wrinkle resistant Resists mildew and moths Does not melt

Silk : limitations

Weakened by sunlight, perspiration and chlorine bleach Absorbs body oils and grease stains Water spots Yellows and fades with age Subject to attack by carpet beetles unless treated Affected by high temperatures Loses strength when wet Should be pressed with a press cloth Color damaged by hair spray Damaged by perfumes

Wool

The wool fiber

The longitudinal view of wool fiber

Wool

The longitudinal view of wool fiber

The cross-section of wool fiber

Wool

Wool advantages

Warm and comfortable to wear Absorbent Wrinkle resistant Mold and shape easily when pressed Water repellent Flame resistant Does not melt

Wool

Wool fiber grows from the skin of sheep Composed of protein known as keratin Relatively coarse fiber Wool is crimpy (wavy) and has scales on its surface Appearance varies with great deal of crimp and coarse scales.

Wool

The finer, softer, warmer fibers have more number and smoother scales The thicker, coarser, less-warm fibers have fewer and rougher scales Underneath the scales is the main fiber body which provide strength and elasticity Two striking characteristics of wool fiber are its susceptability to heat and its felting property which is caused by the scales on the surface Only pressure heat and moisture are required to make wool fibers into the type of fabric called felt.

Wool limitations

Subject to attack by moths and carpet beetles unless treated May shrink and felt when laundered unless blended or especially treated Damaged by chlorine bleach Damaged by dry heat Loses strength when wet Sensitive to alkaline agents Should be pressed with a press cloth

Man Made Fiber

Nylon Modacrylic Polyester Spandex Polyolefin Aramid Novoloid Vectran PBI Flurocarbon(WL Gore) Carbon 1938 1949 1953 1959 1961 1974 1974 1985 1986 1970 1970

Market share

Market share of man-made fibers v/s natural fibers 1945 it was 13 % Now it is > 75 %

Melt spinning

Typical Melt spun fibers

Nylon Polyester Polypropylene Separate drawing step (unless spin draw)

Disadvantages

Advantages

High Speed( 275 to 1500 yds /min and 4000 ydd/min spin draw ) No solvents No purification problems

Dry spinning

Typical dry spun fibers

Acetate Spandex Flammable solvent hazards Solvent recovery is very slow Slow(200-400 yds/min) Yarn does not require purification

Disadvantages

Advantages

Wet spinning

Typical wet spun fibers

Viscose Slow(70-150 yds/min) Washing to remove impurities Solvent and chemical recovery Large tows can be handled

Disadvantages

Advantages

Rayon

The chemical composition of Rayon fiber

Rayon : Advantages

Dyes easily Versatile Relatively inexpensive Absorbent Does not melt

Rayon limitations

Wrinkles easily Weaker when wet Damaged by strong acids and mildew May shrink or stretch unless treated May scorch

Nylon

The fiber structure of Nylon

Nylon

The Chemical structure of Nylon fiber

Nylon

Fiber forming substance is a long chain synthetic polyamide in which less than 85 % of amide linkage is attached directly to two aromatic rings Nylon is thermoplastic, resilient, elastic and very strong Used in wide variety of apparel, home furnishings and industrial products

Nylon advantages

Extremely strong Extremely durable Can be heat set to retain pleats Wrinkle resistant Resists mildew and insect damage Does not burn easily High elasticity Very resistant to abarasion

Nylon :limitations

Builds up static electricity Low moisture absorption Grays and yellows with age and poor care Picks up dye and soil in laundering Absorbs and holds body oils and Perspiration stains Melts if too hot Pills if spun

Polyester

Fiber forming substance is a long-chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 85 % by weight of an ester of a substituted aromatic carboxylic acid The basic elements are carbon, oxygen and hydrogen which is polymerised They are thermoplastic They have good strength and are hydrophobic, i,e, they do not absorb water Polyester is used for a wide variety of apparel, home furnishings and industrial fabrics

Polyester

Polyester Advantages

Wrinkle resistant Retains heat-set pleats and creases Superior wash-wear performance Strong Resists damage from abrasion, strong sunlight, weather conditions,moths,mildew and most strong chemicals.

Polyester - limitations

Absorbs body oils Accumulates static electricity May pill and attract lint Absorbs perspiration odor Melts if too hot

Spandex

Composed of long chain at least 85 % of a segmented polyurethane Consists of soft segments or sections that provide stretch and hard segments that hold the chains together Trade marks of these spandex fibers are glospan, lycra Spandex fibers are extremely elastic Used for the purposes like foundation garments, hoisery ,swimwear,sportswear

Spandex

Spandex advantages Provides strength without weight Resists persperation,cosmetic oils and body lotion Has elasticity great stretch and recovery

Spandex/ lycra/ Elastane

The spandex foundation garment

Spandex: limitations

Damaged by chlorine bleach Absorbs little moisture May yellow when exposed to light Melts at relatively low heat

Polypropylene

Composed of atleast 85 % by weight of ethylene, propylene or other olefin units The carbon-hydrogen chains are polymerised to produce this fiber which is obtained by cracking of petroleum Polyethylene, the original olefin fiber has been superseded by polypropylene The fiber is produced by a number of manufactures under different trademarks

Polypropylene

Polypropylene fiber is thermoplastic resilient ,lightweight Resistant to mildew and many chemicals This fiber is used for apparels and carpets, particularly for out-door use, as well as industrial applications

Fiber strength
Fiber Breaking Tenacity (gms /denier)
Name Natural fibers Cotton Flax Silk Wool 4 5.5 4.5 1.5 5 6.5 3.9 1 Dry Wet

Fiber strength
Breaking Tenacity (gms/denier) Fiber Acetate Acrylic Aramid(Filament) Aramid(Staple) Flurocarbon Glass Modacrylic Novaloid Nylon 6(Filament) Nylon 6(Staple) Nylon 66(Filament) Nylon 66(Staple) Nylon 66(HT) Dry 1.2-1.5 2.0-3.5 4.3-5.1 3.7-5.3 2 7 2.0-3.5 1.5-2.5 6.0-9.5 2.5 3.5-7.2 3.0-6.0 6.0-9.5 Wet 0.8-1.2 1.8-3.3 3.2-3.9 2.7-4.1 SAME SAME SAME 1.3-2.3 5.0-8 2 3.2-6.5 2.6-5.4 5.0-8.0

Fiber strength
Breaking Tenacity (gms/denier) Fiber Olefin Polyester(Filament) Polyester(staple) Polyester (Filament HT) Rayon Rayon HT Rayon HWM Rubber Saran Spandex Vinyon Kevlar Spectra Vectran HS Dry 4.8 4-5.5 2.5-5.5 6.3-9.5 0.73-2.6 3.0-6.0 2.5-5.5 0.3 1.5 0.6-0.9 0.7-1.0 20 30-35 23 Wet 6 SAME SAME SAME 0.7-1.8 1.9-4.6 SAME SAME SAME SAME SAME 18 SAME SAME

Specific Gravity
Fiber Natural Fibers Cotton Flax Silk Wool Density (g/cc)

1.52 1.52 1.25 1.32

continued
Man-Made Fibers Acetate Acrylic Aramid Flurocarbon Glass Modacrylic Nylon Nylon Qiana Olefin Polyester Rayon spandex 1.32 1.17-1.18 1.38-1.44 2.2 2.49-2.73 1.30-1.37 1.14 1.03 0.91 1.22 or 1.38 1.50-1.52 1.20-1.22

Thermal Properties
Fiber Melting point
Softening

Safe Ironing Temperature

C F C

sticking point
F C F

Novoloid Nylon 6 Nylon 66 Olefin Polyester PET Polyester PCDT

Non melting 414 482 275 480 550 212 250 135 249 311 340 445 260 460 490 171 229 127 338 254 300 350 150 325 350 149 177 66

Thermal properties
Rayon Nonmelting

Saran Spandex Vinyon

350 446 285

177 230 140

300 347 200

149Do not iron 175 300

93Do not iron

Continued
Kevlar Nonmelting

spectran vectran 625-300

285

140

260

127(lowest Possible)

Lowest settings on irons :185-225 0 F

Absorbency
Fiber
Natural fibers Cotton Flax Silk Wool 7.0 -11 12 11 13.0-18

Moisture regain

Absorbency
M an-made Fibers Acetate Arnel Triacetate Acrylic Aramid Flurocarbon Glass Modacrylic Nylon Nylon Qiana Olefin Polyester Rayon Rayon HWM Spandex 6 3.2 1.3-2.5 4.5 0 0-0.3 0.4-4.0 4.0-4.5 2.5 0.01-0.1 0.4-0.8 15 11.5-13 0.75-1.3

Sunlight resistance
Glass Acrylic Modacrylic Polyester Flax Cotton Rayon Triacetate acetate olefin nylon wool silk kevlar vectran Poor To Excellent

Fiber blends Some reasons for blending

To facilitate processing To produce multi colored fabrics To reduce cost To improve properties Abrasion resistance Strength Absorbency Hand Dimensional stability Resistance to wrinkling

Summary of properties desired for textile fibers

Tenacity : 3-5 grams/denier Elongation at break : 10-35 % Recovery from elongation : 100% at strains upto 5 % Modulus of elasticity : 30-60 grams/denier Moisture absorbency : 2-5 % Zero strength temperature (excessive creep and softening point) : above 2150 C

Summary of Properties desired by textile fibers

High abrasion resistance (varies with type of fabric structure) Dyeable Low flammability Insoluble with low swelling in water, in moderately strong acids and bases and conventional organic solvents from room temperature to 1000C Ease of care

Fiber Usage
Customer term Comfort Textile Property M oisture character Flexibility Elasticity Thermal character Optical character elasticity Tensile strength Toughness Flexibility Elasticity M oisture character Elasticity Dimensional stability Flammability Chemical resistance

Appearance

Durability

Easy care

Safety

Fibers for Products

Bed sheets

The consumer expects soft and warn handle products with easy care properties Sheets are expected to be hard wearing and dimensionally stable The majority of bedsheets are manufactured form polyester /cotton blends

Fibers for Products

Shirting

Shirts are expected to absorb perspiration as well as being non-creasing and retaining their shape in wear Easy care properties are essential and shirts must be hard wearing to give long service life Like bed sheets most shirts are made from polyester/cotton blends

Fibers for Products

Knitted Jumpers

Jumpers are worn for warmth and need to be elastic so that they may not loose their shape in wear Wool is often used but its high cost is a disadvantage Acrylic fibers are cheaper and have better easy care characteristics Increasingly cotton is used for jumpers and polyester/cotton for sweat-shirts

Fibers for Products

Swim wear

Swim wear needs to fit the body but also allow freedom of movement The fibers should be resistant to salt water as well as chlorinated water in swimming baths Almost exclusively polyamide are used as main fiber,with about % elastane to give stretch This combination dries quickly since neither is water absorbent

Fiber for products

Towels

The most important characteristic for towel is the ability to absorb water It is useful that the towel will retain its shape in use and be soft to the touch Cotton is the main fiber used although viscose is also used

Fibers to Products

Tights

Tights must fit to legs closely, yet be sufficiently elastic to allow movements The fibers must be strong and extensible, to give resistance to sagging and high elastic to prevent wrinkling Polyamide is used for the main part and small amount of elastane is used for waistband

Fibers for Products

Trousers

The fibers used for trousers vary according to consumer requirements In all, easy care and dimensional stability for shape retention are important For warmth poly/wool is effective. This blend is less care Summer trousers are often made from polyester/cotton and denims are just 100 % cotton Jeans do not have easy care properties but are hard wearing: creasing in use is often a positive advantage to the consumer

Thank you