Textile Science

Introduction to Textiles

WHAT IS TEXTILES?

A textile is a flexible material consisting of a network of natural or artificial fibres often referred to as thread or yarn. Yarn is produced by spinning raw wool fibres, linen, cotton, or other material on a spinning wheel to produce long strands known as yarn. Textiles are formed by: 1.weaving, 2.knitting, 3.pressing fibers together non wovens (felt).

Textile Science -TD Sem III

The words fabric and cloth are used in textile trades as synonyms for textile. Textile - any material made of interlacing fibres. Fabric - any material made through weaving, knitting, crocheting, or bonding.
Cloth - a finished piece of fabric that can be used for a

purpose such as covering a bed

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Importance of Textiles

One of the human basic needs besides food, shelter and medicine. Becoming more value conscious than price sensitive.

The economic implications of decisions about fibers, yarns, and fabrics obviously increase if someone is involved professionally with textiles.

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Textiles in our day-to-day life

We climb out from under sheets and blankets and step into slippers and a robe. We wash our faces with washcloths, dry them with towels, and put on clothing for the day.

Even the bristles of our tooth brushes are made from textile fibres.
If we get into a car or bus, we sit on upholstered seats; the machine moves on tires reinforced with strong textile cords. We stand on carpets, sit on upholstered furniture, and look out of curtained windows.
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Other Textiles we come across.

Not only are golf clubs, tennis rackets reinforced with textile fibers, but so are roads, bridges and buildings. Strong, heat-resistant textile fibers in the nose cones of spaceships travel to distant planets. Physicians implant artificial arteries made of textiles or use fibers for surgery that gradually dissolve as wounds heal. conveyor belts and even our processed foods have been filtered through textile filter paper. To sum up -there is truly no aspect of modern life that is untouched by some area of textiles.
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Textile History

No one knows exactly when the spinning and weaving of textiles began. The oldest fragment of cloth found so far is from archeological excavations at a site in southern Turkey called Cayonu. This piece of white fabric, probably linen, has been dated at about 7000 B.C.

Textile Science -TD Sem III

Historians have long thought that silk from China first reached ancient Greece and Rome along a trade route called the silk road in the latter part of the 2nd century B.C The Romans imported not only Chinese silk but also cotton from nearby Egypt. Roman settlements excavated in India, archeologists have found facilities for dyeing and finishing cotton fabrics.

Textile Science -TD Sem III

TEXTILE NOW-A-DAYS

International trade in textiles and clothing has played an important role in the development process of many countries and has also facilitated their integration in to the world economy. In the Developed Countries, the process of industrialization and Subsequent prosperity in a way commenced with the mechanization of textile production in the early 19th Century. In the Developing Countries, on the other hand, the sector has come to occupy an important place in terms of its contribution to national output, employment and exports. Developing countries as a group account for more than one half of world exports of textiles and clothing.
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Importance of Textile Industry in India

Contributes 4% to the Gross Domestic Product (GDP)

Accounts for 17% of total Exports

Is the largest employment provider after Agriculture 82 million people direct/indirect) (

Market size of the Textile industry (exports & domestic) is US$ 52 billion, at present Expected to reach US$ 110 billion by 2012
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Current Status of Indian Textile Industry

Source: The Textile Magazine, Dec 2008

Indian position in global market

Largest producer of jute 2nd largest producer of silk 3rd largest producer of cotton(16% of global production) 3rd largest producer of cellulosic fibre/yarn 5th largest producer of synthetic fibres/yarns 11th largest producer of wool

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Total Exports of all Textiles and Clothings -2007

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In 2006-07, exports were $ 18.73 billion recording a growth of about 7% over the previous year and contributed about 15% of countrys total export earnings Latest available WTO data, Indias % share in the global textiles and the clothing trade was 4.3% and 3.3% respectively in 2006 Total textile imports were of the order of Rs.12,857 crores

About 51% of this was on account of import of yarn and fabrics and 44% on account of import of raw material

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Regulations and policies

Some of the Govt. Regulations and policies

TUF Scheme: launched in April 1, 1999 to provide firms to access to low interest rate loans for technology up-gradation and setting up new units with state-of- art technology In Xth Plan(2002-2007), Rs.1,270 crores was earmarked for this scheme
With overwhelming response form the industry, government decided to extend the scheme upto the XIth Plan

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FDI: upto 100% FDI allowed in the textile and apparel manufacturing industry, with the approval of the Foreign Investment Promotion Board(FIPB) SITP: Scheme for Integrated Textile Parks, based on public-private partnership model to build world class infrastructure facilities, targets/locations with high growth potential

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Indias export target of $ 55 bn by 2012 has been fixed keeping in view the following factors:

End of quota regime Growing world economies with rising per capita income Increased trade in apparel A surge in demand for technical textiles Increasing penetration of high format retail stores
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STRENGTHS
2nd largest textile producer in world Integrated industry Abundant skilled and technical labour force Large and growing domestic market Strong cotton base Flexibility in production of small orders

WEAKNESS
Small size & technological outdated plants, low productivity & weak quality control Poor work practices resulting in high labour costs Except spinning sector, others are fragmented Poor quality in weaving & processing due to unorganised sectors Rigid government labour laws and policies High transaction and power cost

OPPURTUNITIES
Per capita domestic textile consumption increasing

THREATS
Survival of the fittest in terms of quality, size, delivery and cost

Textile industry identified as thrust area by government for development and promotion
Phasing out of manufacturing by developed countries due to high cost of production Shift in domestic markets towards readymade garments

Competion from other textile exporting countries after the abolition of quota system
Adoption of non-tariff barriers in the form of anti-dumping duties by developed countires

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Top Exporters Europe China India Turkey US

Amount in US$ Bn 154.63 144.07 19.52 19.47 17.54

% 29.17 27.18 3.68 3.67 3.31

Others
Total

174.77
530.00

32.99
100.00

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Emerging trends in World Trade

The cost and price structure globally is being characterized by higher potential for profit from , 1.innovation, 2.marketing, and 3.retailing

rather than,
1.production, 2.assembly, finishing and 3.packaging.

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Application of Technology

In this emerging scenario, wide spread application of technology is required not only to, upgrade the quality of products and determine consumer choices, but also, to overcome disadvantages and to reduce overhead costs

The developed countries are already focusing on niche products like, protective clothing, clothing for medical use (Nanotextiles)

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Some of the products, now being developed are jackets that, i) cool the wearers down,

ii) warm them up, & send out soothing vibrations, iii) textiles with healing & caring properties and

iv) protection from harmful radiation.

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"Technical textiles" have been breaking new ground due to their, 1.cost effectiveness, 2.durability, 3.versatility, 4.user friendliness, 5.eco-properties

Around 40% of all textiles made in Germany are now covered under the field of "Technical Textiles".
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Market Estimates

Market Size of Indian Textile Industry (2006) - US$ 52 bn; Market Size of Indian Textile Industry (2012) - US$110 bn; Market Size of Domestic Market (2006) - US$ 34.6 bn; Market Size of Domestic Market (2012) - US$ 60.0 bn; The cloth production is expected to grow at an annual rate of 13% and garments at the rate of 19%.

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Fibres, Filaments, Yarns (spun & filament) & Sewing Threads

Fibres Fibre is the starting point of the textile chain.

Fibers or fibres are a class of hair-like materials that are continuous filaments or are in discrete elongated pieces, similar to pieces of thread. First of all, fibre is obtained from the source, which is then spun into yarn. Yarn is then woven or knitted into fabric.
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Technical definition of the term textile fibre such as that of ASTM : a generic term for any one of the various types of matter that form the basic elements of a textile and that is characterized by having a length at least 100 times its diameter fiber: a slender and greatly elongated substance capable of being spun into yarn

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Filaments

A fiber of an indefinite or extreme length

Fiber which has been extruded and is then converted into yarn Manufactured fibres are usually extruded in filament form, but the filaments can be cut into shorter, staple lengths
Filaments can be made into yarn with little or no twisting
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Silk is the only natural fibre available in filament form. The length of the fiber will have an effect on the appearance of the yarn into which is made.

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Spun Yarns

technical term - yarn produced by spinning fibers into a continuous strand, yarn made from staple fibres industrial term - Yarn composed of discontinuous fibres usually held together by twist It is very likely that wool was one of the first fibres to be spun

A staple-spun yarn is a linear assembly of fibres, held together, usually by the insertion of twist, to form a continuous strand, small in cross section but of any specified length
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SEWING THREAD

The term yarn and thread are used interchangeably. But sewing threads are used for sewing/joining together section/parts of garments or other products.

Sewing threads may be made from one or more kinds of fibre. i.e., cotton alone or polyester covered with cotton, rayon.
Except for yarns made from nylon or polyester, single yarns are not suitable for sewing threads, hence 2 or more plys are used
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Fabrics - Sources

Yarns must be united in some way to form a cohesive structure. This can be achieved by

Weaving Looping Knitting & crocheting bonding(non-woven) Lacing knotting braiding etc

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Woven Fabrics It consists of interlacing of yarns.

By varying the interlacing, a wide variety of different fabric construction can be made
The lengthwise direction yarns in a woven fabric are called the warp yarns or ends Crosswise horizontal yarns are called weft yarns or picks or filling yarns. Warp and weft yarns normally interlace with each other @ right angles.
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Looped Fabrics It consists of fabrics constructed from one or more continuous yarns by the formation of a series of interconnected loops.

Ex. Knitting & crocheting

Knitting

Is the process of making cloth with a single yarn or set of yarns moving in only one direction instead of 2 sets of yarn crossing each other as in weaving. Single yarn is looped through itself to make a chain of stitches.
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This interlocking can be done by either vertical or horizontal movement. When the yarns are introduced in a cross wise direction, at right angles to the direction of growth of fabric known as weft knit When the yarns run lengthwise or up and down known as warp knit

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Rows of stitches that run in columns along the lengthwise direction of the fabric are known as wales(corresponds to warp in woven fabrics) Crosswise rows of stitches or loops are called as course (corresponds to weft in woven fabrics)

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Non-Wovens
It is divided into several broad classifications:

Fabrics made by knotting

By looping By stitching yarns or fibres together

Bonding together a web of fibres

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Netting and lace are created by knotting, either by hand or by machine Crochet, essentially a hand technique, is made from a series of loops in a process that is similar to knitting

A new fabric construction technique, known either as stitch bonding or stitch knitting, combines yarns and/or fibres by sewing them together Ancient techniques such as felt making or bark cloth construction are similar in principle to the manufacture of modern nonwovens, fibres held together in a flexible web.
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Crochet

Creating fabric by pulling one loop of yarn through another with a hook
Crocheting is closely related to knitting Crochet is made with a single needle or hook, whereas knitting uses several needles

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Braiding

To have decorative effect and for added strength Initially used in human hairs - both men and women dated back from prehistoric period

Also applied to other materials such as

long grass and weeds, or strips of palm or banana leaves which were made as baskets at a very early date.
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Materials for Braiding

Any material which can be made into strips and is flexible can be hand-braided

Grasses Weeds String Cord Paper Cloth Leather and even Thin strips of metal
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Chinese Knotting

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Textile industry is constituted of the following segments

Readymade Garments Cotton Textiles including Handlooms (Millmade / Powerloom/ Handloom) Man-made Textiles Silk Textiles Woollen Textiles Handicrafts including Carpets Coir Jute

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