Textile Fibers and

Yarns
Objectives:

• List the main characteristics of natural

and manufactured fibers
• Explain how fibers are marketed
• Summarize the role of leather and fur
as primary materials in fashion
• Describe new fiber innovations
• Explain how fibers are made into
yarns
Fiber Categories
• Natural
– Originate from natural sources
– Plant (cellulosic) or animal
(protein)
• Manufactured, synthetic, or
man-made (terms
interchangeable)
– Originate from chemical sources
– May also be from regenerated or
recycled sources
 Natural
Fibers
• Cellulosic (from plants)
– Cotton
• From cotton plants
– Flax (linen)
• From flax stems
• Protein (from animals)
– Silk
• From cocoons of silkworms
– Wool
• From fleece (hair) of sheep
or lambs
Textile Terms
• Fibers
• Yarns
– Staple: short fibers
– Fibers twisted
• Usually characterizes
together
a natural fiber
– Ply refers to how
– Filament: long many yarns may be
continuous fibers twisted together
• Usually characterizes before weaving
a synthetic fiber • Fabrics
(except silk) – Yarns woven,
• Denier knitted, or fused
together to create
– Fiber thickness or fabric
diameter
Cotton • Cellulosic fiber
• From “bolls” (seed
pods) growing on
bushes
• Comfortable
• Soft and durable
• Absorbent, cool to
wear
• “Environmentally
friendly” cotton
can be grown in a
range of colors
Wool
• Protein fiber
• From sheep
• Worsted wool is
higher quality with
long staple fibers
(over 2 inches)
• Natural insulator
• Will shrink and
mat if washed
Flax
(Linen)
• World’s oldest textile
fiber
• Cellulosic fiber from
stem of flax plant
• Stiff, wrinkles easily
• Absorbent, cool to
wear in heat
• Other uses
– Dish towels
– Tablecloths

Flax is the fiber name;

linen is the fabric
name.
Other Natural Fibers
• Ramie
• Jute
• Sisal Cellulosi
• Hemp c
• Raffia Fibers
• Down
feathers
• Hair fibers
from Protei
– Goats n
– Rabbits Fibers
– Camels
Marketing Natural
Fibers
• Natural fiber trade
associations:
– Cotton Incorporated
Natural Fibers r – National Cotton Council
– Wool Bureau, Inc.
cool – Mohair Council of
America
– International Silk
Association
• Provide fabric libraries
Leather and
Fur
• From hides or pelts
(skins) of animals
• Expensive
• Artificial substitutes
available (faux
leather and fur)
• Leather used
mainly for footwear
• Fur used for
“prestige” apparel
and accessories
Manufactured Fibers
• Process
– Raw materials
melted or dissolved
to form thick syrup
– Liquid extruded
through spinneret
– Extruded filaments
stretched and
hardened into fibers
Categories of
Manufactured Fibers
(generic groups)
• Generic group: a • Variants: trade or
family of manufactured brand names given
fibers with similar to slightly modified
chemical composition generic fibers
• Common generic fibers • Example: ANTRON
from chemical or nylon used for
petroleum products: hosiery
– Polyester
– Nylon
– Olefin
– Acrylic
Manufactured Fibers

• Qualities that are • Qualities that

unique or superior may be less than
to natural fibers desirable
– Feel clammy
– Elasticity
because they are
– Nonallergenic nonabsorbent
– Strength – Build up static
– Resistant to electricity
abrasion – Susceptible to oil
stains
Other Types of
Manufactured Fibers
• Fibers that come from a
plant (cellulosic) source;
chemically altered to
create new fibers
(regenerated)
– Rayon
– Acetate and Triacetate
– Lyocell
Fiber Innovation and
Trends
• Fibers are designed for
specific end-uses
• Polymers (chemical
compounds) are
engineered to meet needs
• “Microfibers” are ultra-fine
deniers that make softer,
more luxurious fabrics
• Spandex added in fiber
Plastic soft drink blends to make stretchable
bottles recycled fabrics
into apparel
Marketing Manufactured
Fibers • Trademarked variants
assure consumers of
quality
• American Fiber
Manufacturers
Association helps
inform the consumer,
maintain government
relations, and monitor
foreign trade policy
Spinning Fibers into
Yarns
• Spinning draws,
twists, and winds
staple, filament, or
blends of both fibers
into long, cohesive
strands or yarns
• Yarns wound onto
bobbins or spools
• Twist may vary,
creating different Early 18th century
yarn properties spinning wheel
Yarn Terminology
• Yarn blends
– Combining two or more
fibers into a spun yarn
• Combination yarns
– Contain two or more
plys of different fibers
• Textured yarns
– Changing the surface of
a yarn using chemicals,
Texturing gives bulk,
heat, or machinery
stretch, softness, and
wrinkle-resistance to
yarns.
Do You Know . . .
• The American Yarn
Spinners Association
deals with the
government on yarn-
industry issues such
as trade laws,
customs regulations,
packaging, labeling,
and product
standards.