National Institute of Textile Engineering & Research

Dhaka, Bangladesh

Programme: Master of Science in Textile Engineering

Course Title: Advanced Apparel Design and Apparel Production
Course Code: MTE- 5104
Course Credit: 03

Course Instructor: Md. Abul Hasan Shibly

01819898543
hasan.niter@gmail.com
Dobby Cont’d
Dobby Cont’d
Dobby Cont’d
Dobby Cont’d
 Dobby Cont’d

• Fabric
• Types
• Woven
• Shedding
 Session-8

Session Structure
 Dobby Shedding
 Introduction
 Scope and Uses
 Classification
 Working Principle
 Dobby

Shedding device

Placed on the top of a loom

To produce figure patterns by using a larger number of heald shafts

Control the movements of heald shafts

 Dobby Cont’d

Scope of dobby
The scope of dobby is limited between the uses of tappets and jacquards. When the
no. of shafts to be controlled or the picks to a repeat of the design is beyond the
range of a shedding tappet, but is at the same time too small to be economically
produced by a jacquard, then the dobby mechanism is used.
Capacity of dobby
I. Theoretically; 48 heald frame/ warps in a repeat
II. Application/ Practical; 36 heald frame for long staple yarn
III. Application; 24 heald frame for cotton
 Dobby Cont’d

Various ways of classifying dobby loom

1. According to the figuring capacity (no. of heald shaft): 12 to 48 (48’s, 36’s, 24’s,
16’s, 12’s)
2. According to lift or performance
I. Single-acting or single lift II. Double acting or double lift
3. According to position of dobby with loom
II. Horizontal II. Vertical
4. According to driving of heald shaft
III. Positive II. Negative
 Dobby Cont’d

Various ways of classifying dobby loom

5. According to type of shed
I. Bottom close shedII. Semi-open shed III. Open shed IV. Centre close shed
6. According to number of jack lever
I. Single jack lever II. Double jack lever
7. Broadly dobby shedding-
I. Ordinary dobby i.e. single jack liver/single lift dobby II. Special dobby i.e.
double jack lever
8. Source of control
I. Mechanical dobbyII. Electric dobby
 Dobby Cont’d

Dobby mechanisms- The dobby consists of three principal mechanisms:

1. The drive mechanism: An auxiliary shaft is permanently driven from the weaving
machine.
- It operates two steel bars (knives), having a regular reciprocating motion or
- It operates coupling rings on a rotary dobby.
2. The selection mechanism: It is operated by a dobby card
-It reads or checks the design information punched on a dobby card, and transmits
the necessary movement from the drive mechanism to the lifting mechanism.
3. The lifting mechanism: operates the heald shaft motion.
 Single-lift Dobby

The characteristics of a single-left dobby are the following:

⁻ All system elements perform their function once every weaving cycle to open a
shed, and then they return to their original positions before a new cycle.
⁻ The shed is closed after every weft insertion and the pick is beaten up at the
closed shed (center-closed shed)
⁻ Each hook of this dobby controls a single heald
⁻ Dobby is driven from the crankshaft of the loom.
⁻ Advantageous in the wool/silk weaving in the past.
⁻ The speed of single-lift dobby is limited to 160 to 180 rpm
⁻ High power consumption with low output
 Double-lift Dobby

– It forms an open shed

– The weft is beaten up in a crossed shed
– Double hooks in this dobby control a single heald
– The double-lift dobby is driven from the bottom shaft of a loom.
– Less time is taken to produce a shed
– Its cycle occupies two picks
– System elements operate once every two weaving cycles, but the shed
opening is achieved every pick.
– Most of the motions in dobby occur at half time loom speed.
– Open shed is produced; unnecessary, wasted movements are eliminated.
– Suitable for high speed operations.
 Double-lift Dobby

Types of double-lift dobby- There are various kinds of double-lift dobbies.

I. Hattersley or Keighley dobby (1867)
II. Blackbur
III. Cross-border dobby
IV. Burnley dobby
V. Dobcross or knowles positive open shed dobby
 Hattersley or Keighley Dobby

• This dobby forms open-shed and is effected in a partially-open, that is crossed

shed, thereby makes the cloth compact.
• It is a horizontal, negative, single jack, double-lift and lever dobby.
• Manufactured in England
• Very popular because of its simplicity and reliability
• Finest silk weaving to the heaviest upholstery fabric
• Produce open shed
• Keighley dobby is known to be a double acting dobby with single jack i.e., Double
lift single jack dobby
• Negative in action
• The negative keighley dobbies are in general use.
 Dobby Cont’d
Basic Components
K1 & K2- Lower &
Upper knife
H1 & H2- Lower &
Upper hook
S1 & S2- Lower &
Upper stop bar
F1 & F2- Feeler
C- Rocking shaft
Pegs on Pattern
Chain

Figure 8.1 Dobby Mechanism

Hattersley or Keighley Dobby

Figure 8.5: Placement of negative dobby

Hattersley or Keighley Dobby
 Hattersley or Keighley Dobby

* In the diagram, the heald shaft has been raised by moving the top end of the
baulk B away from its stop bar S
* This has happened because the top knife K has previously engaged the hook H,
and has drawn the top end of the baulk B away from its stop bar S, this action
causing the baulk to pivot about the point of contact between its lower end and
the stop bar S.
* The knife K was able to engage the hook H, because a peg in the lag forming part
of the pattern chain had raised the right-hand end of the feeler F, which thus
allowed the rod R to lower the hook H, onto the knife K . In the diagram, there is
no peg to support the right-hand end of the feeler F, which has therefore fallen,
this fall allowing its upturned left-hand end to raise the hook H clear of the knife
K 
 Hattersley or Keighley Dobby

* As the action continuous, the top end of the baulk will be returned to its stop bar,
and at the same time the bottom knife will move to the right without disturbing the
bottom end of the baulk.
* The shaft will therefore be lowered and will remain down for the next pick. In the
absence of a peg, the shaft is lowered or remains down.
* A peg will lift the shaft, and a succession of pegs will keep the shaft raised.
* Some form of spring under motion, acting through the shaft and its connections to
the baulk, keeps one end of the baulk in contact with its stop bar while the other
end is being displaced. Alternatively, it keeps both ends of the baulk in contact
with the stop bars when the shaft is not being raised.
* kneighleyss_negative_.mp4
 Hattersley or Keighley Dobby

The full cycle of operations by the simplified line diagrams

* In each diagram,the knives are shown at one extreme of their movement.

Selection for the next pick
* Necessarily takes place while the hook is in contact with its stop bar because
only then can the hook engage or disengage its knife
 Session-9

Session Structure
 System of Pegging
 Climax Dobby
 Positive Dobby
 Extra warp and Weft Designs
 Method of Presentation of Designs
 Hattersley or Keighley Dobby “System of Pegging”

→ Twill weave (3/3/1/1) which repeats on eight ends and eight picks Figure A
→ The system of pegging is depicted in Figure B.
→ This design can be produced by using eight healds and straight draft.
→ The selection for heald movement is controlled by wooden pegs which can be
inserted within the circular holes made on the wooden lags.
→ The wooden lags linked together into a lattice which is mounted on the pattern
wheel (or barrel).
→ The pattern barrel is rotated by a certain degree once in two peaks.
→ The presence of a peg within the hole results raised position of the heald and vice
versa. The position of two holes corresponding to the same heald is not on the
same line. The lateral shifting of holes is done so that two adjacent feelers can be
accommodated.
 Hattersley or Keighley Dobby

Fig. A : Point paper representation of 3/3/1/1 twill

weave Fig. B: Peg plan for 3/3/1/1 twill weave
Hattersley or Keighley Dobby “System of Pegging”

Figure: Wooden Pegs

 Hattersley or Keighley Dobby

Method of pegging the lags for a Keighley dobby 

→ Each lag serves for two picks.
→ The holes in the lags are staggered to correspond with the positions of the feelers.
→ The pattern barrel is turned intermittently by a Geneva wheel or similar motion so
as to present a new lag every second pick.
→ In the diagram of the lags, a filled circle represents a peg.
→ In practice, it would be necessary to peg two or more repeats of the weave in order
to have a pattern chain sufficiently long to encircle the rotating barrel that
presents the lags to the feelers.
 Climax Dobby

• Double lift double

jack dobby
• Negative in action
• Hook and Knife
arrangement.
 Climax Dobby

Working principle
When the connecting rod moves up and down and T-lever gives outward
and inward movement. According to fabric design, when peg come in contact
with the feeler, then the right portion of feeler is raised and the left portion
being lowered. As hooks are supported with feeler, hooks are lowered.
When the left end of feeler Q is lowered, then upper hook come in contact
with upper knife. In this state, when connecting rod moves down, the upper
portion of T-levers gives outward movement.
As a result, upper portion of S-lever moves to the right. As baulk lever is
joined with S-lever baulk lever also moves to the right side. Thus a pull create
on timber lever and link. As outside and inside jack lever joined with timber
lever and link, the lever moves up at the same time.
Thus the heald shaft raised up.
 Climax Dobby

Similarly, when the left end of feeler P is lowered, then lower hook come in
contact with lower knife. In this state, when connecting rod moves up and the
bottom portion of T-lever moves to the right side.
As a result, bottom portion of S-lever moves to the right & the same process
occurs i.e., top portion of the baulk lever moves to the right, and then jack
levers are moved up at the same time.
 Hence the heald shafts are again raised.
Thus a heald shaft is alternately raised by upper knife and lower knife. The
shaft will therefore be lowered with the help of return spring and will remain
down for next pick.
 Disadvantages of Negative Dobbies

• Negative dobbies consume much energy to overcome

the warp tension, the heald shaft weight and the reversing motion pull during heald
shaft lifting.
• This results in increased irregularity in the operation of the weaving machine.
• Another disadvantage is the somewhat uncertain bottom position of the heald shaft
and an irregular shed is formed.
• To avoid this, positive dobbies have been developed which operate with a
constrained heald shaft motion in both directions, i.e. with positive heald shaft lifting
and lowering.
 CAM DOBBY

 The actuating of the knives by cams.

 The bowls on the knife levers are kept
always in contact with the cams, by
special springs.
 the knives are only pushed by the
cams and returning is carried out by
springs.
 Therefore these cams can be
considered as negative in action. A= Cams; B = I-lever; C= Knife; D=
Hook; E= Baulk lever; F= Jack; G=
Connecting rod; H=Sector; I= Chain; M=
Feelers; N = Needles.
 Advantage of Cam Dobby

 Clearer loom alley space.

 Reduced warp breakages.
 Very smooth movement of healds which protects heald frames and heald
wire from damage.
 Amount of lift can be raised or reduced that is suitable for particular type
of warp.
 Cams can be designed to give the required dwell period, for 60º,90º and
120º of crank shaft revolution according to loom width, speed of operation
and type of fabric.
 other advantages like- clearer passage for shuttle flight.
- Economy in power due to reduction in picking force.
 Heald Reversing Motion

Main disadvantage of this motion

 When the heald frame is raised →

spring stretches thus adding strain
on the lifting mechanism.
 Heald frame will vibrate in case
the spring position is not correct or
very light springs are used or
elasticity of springs is reduced due
to constant oscillating movement.
A= Single jack , B= Heald Frame, C=
Spring.
 Heald Reversing Motion

 When heald frame is raised→

point of connection for spring
passes the centre and so the
stress is transferred to fulcrum
point O, & there is less tension on
heald frame.
 Max. tension is exerted on heald
frame when point of connection is
below the check pin P, i.e., the
heald is down.

M- Stand, N- Tumbler lever, O-

Fulcrum, P-Check pin, S- Spring.
 Positive Dobby

In Keighley negative dobby, knives and hooks cause movement in the baulk and jack
lever as a result, the heald is raised. The lowering of heald is done by the reversing
motion.
However, the upward and downward movements of the healds are completely
controlled by the positive dobby.
Positive Dobby (Rotary roller dobby)
 Knowles Dobby
 Cross-Border Dobby
 Electronic Dobby
 Rotary Type Positive Dobby

 In order to achieve dobby shedding at faster speeds, new generation rotary

dobbies are developed and introduced. Rotary dobby can allow weaving machine
speeds up to 1000-1500 rpm.
 The term ROTARY was chosen because the straight line motion of the heald
frames is derived from rotating elements in the dobby.
 A controlled crank mechanism known as cam unit is built into dobby.
 Each cam unit is of only 12 mm wide and can control one of the heald shafts.
 The cam unit consists of a heart-shaped crank disc which encloses a cam with ball
bearings plus a movable key which is the only controlled part.
 Rotary Type Positive Dobby

Figure : High performance rotary dobby of the series 2400

Rotary Type Positive Dobby

Figure : Mounting location of a rotary dobby

 Rotary Type Positive Dobby

Principle mechanisms on a rotary dobby

I. Drive mechanism (Modulator)
 Modulator transforms the regular rotary motion of the weaving machine into
an irregular rotary motion.
 By the use of complementary cams precise laws of motion results, meeting
the requirements of any type of weaving machine.
 Irregular rotary motion means that the cam shaft turns through 180° and
then pauses momentarily for a new selection.
 Coupling ring fixed on the cam shaft has the same irregular rotary
movement.
 Rotary Type Positive Dobby

Principle mechanisms on a rotary dobby

II. Selection mechanism
 A retched placed on the outside of the cam, enclosed by the crank,
connects it with the driver.
 The retched is controlled according to the pattern by the control unit which
may be mechanical or electric.
 A 180° rotation of the cam causes a lifting motion.
 Rotary Type Positive Dobby

Principle mechanisms on a rotary dobby

III. Lifting mechanism (cam unit)
 The essential element is a crank mechanism enclosing a cam with ball
bearings.
 The cam unit is mounted on the cam shaft but not fixed.
 Cam is eccentric and can freely rotate.
 The ratchet placed on the outside of the cam connects it with the driver,
and by a 180° rotation of the cam causes a lifting motion.
Rotary Type Positive Dobby
Rotary Type Positive Dobby

Figure : Modern Rotary dobby

 Rotary Dobby of the Series 2600

Magnet Bar
Jack

Selector
Cam Unit

Connecting Rod Control Lever

Driver
Ratchet
 Difference Between Mechanical & Electronic Dobby
Mechanical Dobby Electronic Dobby
The mechanical dobby chain and pegs are
Computer controlled shaft selection
used.
The construction of shaft sequences is Construction is done on computer screen
done by building a mechanical dobby chain. with weave software’s.
A little bit tougher way to design fabric. More intuitive way to design fabric.
Unable to visualize the repeated designs in Can visualize the repeated weave design
fabric in mind. on the screen.
Loading and switching of weave patterns
Loading and swtching of weave drafts takes
can be done in seconds without getting
longer time.
up from the loom.
Tedious work in designing and producinh Remove tedious work in designing and
fabric. producing the fabric.
 Electronic Dobby

Uses of dobby
 In cotton industry, maximum 24 shafts dobbies used. But mostly 16 to 20
shafts are used.
 In worsted industry, dobbies with 36 jacks are in use and many of them are
positive in action and suitable for heavy shedding.
 Dobbies are extensively used for weaving twills, sateen and other simple
weaves.
 Dobbies offer better facilities for producing a variety of patterns with more
no. of healds than that is possible with tappets.
 The chance of pattern in the cloth, in dobby loom, can be readily done,
where as it is laborious and expensive in case of tappet.
 Extra warp and Extra Weft Designs

 Extra materials are employed is that the

withdrawal of the extra threads from the
cloth leaves a complete ground structure
under the figure.
 One of the advantages of figuring with extra
materials is that bright colors-in sharp
contrast with the ground-may be brought to
the surface of the cloth in any desired
proportion.

Figure: Extra warp fabric

 Methods of Introducing Extra Figuring Threads

 The extra yarns for figuring can be introduced in a fabric either as warp or
weft, or in a combination of these two.
 For an extra warp weaving a separate warp beam is employed because of
the different take up rates and tension employed during weaving process.
 For the case of extra weft figuring the weaving machine must have the
capacity of inserting two or more weft threads to be inserted in continuous
order with the ground threads, or intermittent order ,while where they are
introduced the arrangement of the figuring and ground threads may be 1
and 1,1 and 2,1and 3 etc. according to the structure of the cloth and solidity
of the figure required.
 The visibility of the figures largely depends on this factor.
 Method of Disposing of the Surplus Extra Threads 

One or other of the following methods may be employed-

1. The extra yarn is allowed to float loosely on the back in the ground of the
fabric.
2. The extra yarn is allowed to float loosely on the back, and is afterwards
cut away.
3. In compact fabrics the extra threads are bound in on the underside of the
cloth, either between corresponding floats in the ground texture, or by
means of special stitching threads.
4. The extra threads are interwoven on the face of the cloth in the form of
small auxiliary figures or floats thus adding to the fullness of the texture.
 Extra Warp Figuring

 In these fabrics the design is formed by allowing the extra warp threads to
float on a ground structure.
 The chief advantage of the extra warp method is in productivity but at
present it is mostly utilized for continuous styles arranged one of ground,
one of extra thread warp way.
 Jacquard designs in this method are less popular due to the fact that each
different design frequently requires the harness to be re-tied or otherwise
modified which is costly itself and which often leads to further costs by
increasing the length of the weaving machine downtime.
 Additional costs are incurred by the need to draw-in new warp into the
newly re-tied harness.
 Extra Warp Figuring with Single Colour

Design and ground weave Ratio of ground and figuring threads-1:1

A-Motif design (8×10) Repeat Size- 16×10

B- Ground weave (Plain 1/1) Figure: Design of extra warp fabric with single colour
 Extra Warp Figuring with Two Colour

Motif Design Ratio of ground and figuring threads-1:1

A- Figuring motif design (8×8) notations (×and )

B- Separation of the two figuring warps Figure: Design of extra warp fabric with two colour
 Extra Weft Figuring

 Extra weft figured fabrics may be formed with one, two or more extra weft
picks in addition to the ground weft.
 Only one series of warp threads is used and the effect is obtained by
floating the extra weft where desired on the face of the ground cloth
produced by the interlacing of the warp with the ground weft in plain or in
some other simple weave order.
 Weaving machine used for this purpose must have the capacity to insert
more than one kind of weft.
 Extra Weft Figuring with Single Colour

Motif Design Ratio of ground and figuring threads-2:2

A-Motif design (10×8)

Convention has been reversed here i.e. the weft
lift is indicated as ‘X” Figure B: Design of extra warp fabric with single
colour
 Extra Weft Figuring with Two Colour

Motif Design Motif Separation

Motif repeat (8×8) notations (× and ) Separation of the two figuring wefts
 Extra Weft Figuring with Two Colour

Ratio of ground and figuring threads- 2:2

Class Performance Test

Draw a Design of extra weft fabric with two colour

Figure: Design of extra weft fabric with two colour

Comparison Between Extra Warp and extra Weft
Figuring
Extra warp figuring Extra weft figuring

Advantages/Disadvantages Advantages/Disadvantages

Pls do self study Pls do self study

 Next Session

Class Presentation
On
“Method of Presentation of Designs”

30 August 2019
Presenter
Mr.
 Session-10

Session Structure
 First Class Test Examination
 Method of Presentation of Designs
 Modern Dobby
 Method of Presentation of Designs

Woven design fundamentals

Woven fabric are composed of longitudinal or warp threads and transverse
or weft threads, interlaced with one another according to the class of
structure.
Woven structure may be conveniently divided into two principle categories:

Simple Structure

Compound Structure
 Method of Presentation of Designs

The unit of woven fabric is the intersection of a warp end and a weft pick, the
interlacing being of two possible kinds-

Figure 10.1: A. Warp over weft and B. Weft over warp

 Method of Presentation of Designs

There are two practical methods of weave representation-

Figure 10.2: Weave representation (Canvas ) Figure 10.2: Weave representation (Linear)
 Method of Presentation of Designs

Weave repeat (Repeat size)-

Repeat indicates the minimum number of warp and weft threads for a given
weave. The size of repeat may be even or uneven depending upon the
nature of the weave.
  X X   X X
X X   X X  
X   X X   X
  X
  X X   X X
X X
X X   X X  
X  
# X   X X   X

2x3 6x6
Figure 10.4: Design repeat -2/1 twill & repeat size 2X3 Figure 10.5: Design size 6X6
 Method of Presentation of Designs

The three basic elements in a woven design are :

(i) Design
(ii) Draft or drawing plan
(iii) Peg or lifting plan

Figure 10.6: Weave structure, drawing and lifting plan of 2/2 RHT weave
 Method of Presentation of Designs

Types of draft plans the various drafts are classified as follows :

(i) Straight
(ii) Pointed
(iii) Skip and sateen
(iv) Broken
(v) Divided
(vi) Grouped
(vii) Curved
(viii) Combination

Pls. do self study