Chapter 10

Metal Straightening
Fundamentals
 Objectives

• Describe different types of metals used in

vehicle construction
• Summarize the deformation effects of impacts
on steel
• Use a hammer and dolly to straighten
• Explain how to straighten with spoons
• List the steps for shrinking metal
 Objectives (continued)

• Summarize paintless dent removal

• Prepare a surface for filler
• Properly mix filler and hardener
• Correctly apply and shape filler
• List common mistakes made when using filler
and spot putty
 Introduction

• An untrained person can spend more time

shaping and sculpting body filler than properly
reworking the damaged metal
• Improperly straightened panel has tension that
can cause filler to crack, lose adhesion, or fall off
• To do quality sheet metal repairs, you must
return the sheet metal to its original shape
– Then you can use a thin layer of filler to smooth
surface above panel
 Sheet Metal

• Hot-rolled sheet metal is made by rolling at

temperatures exceeding 1,472 degrees F
• Cold-rolled sheet metal is hot-rolled that has
been acid rinsed, cold-rolled thin and annealed
• Low-carbon or mild steel (MS) is relatively soft,
with a yield strength of up to 30,000 psi
– Easily deformed, and relatively heavy
• High-strength steel (HSS) is stronger, and has a
yield strength of up to 60,000 psi
– More difficult to restore than MSS
 Steel Strength

• When flat sheet steel is formed into a shape for

a panel or part it takes on hardening properties
• Shape of panels is changed in a collision,
changing the structure of the metal
• After a collision, metal is harder and more
resistant to corrective forces
• Strength is expressed in pounds per square inch
(psi), kilograms per centimeter squared (kg/cm2)
• Differences in chemical makeup and crystalline
structure of steels affect their strength
 Physical Structure of Steel

• Steel, like all matter, is composed of atoms,

which are arranged to form grains
• Grain structure in a piece of steel determines
how much it can be bent or shaped
• To change the shape of flat steel, you must
change the shape and position of the grains
• In MSs the individual grains can withstand a
considerable amount of change before breaking
• Bending steel causes individual grains to move
against each other, which causes friction
 Effect of Impact Forces

• Elastic deformation is the ability of metal to

stretch and return to its original shape
• Spring-back is the tendency for metal to return to
its original shape after deformation
• Plastic deformation is the ability of metal to be
bent or formed into different shapes
• When metal is bent beyond its elastic limit it has
a tendency to spring back
– Will not spring back to its original shape because
grain structure has changed
 Work Hardening

• Work hardening is the limit of plastic deformation

that causes the metal to become hard where it
has been bent
• If a welding rod is bent back and forth several
times, a fold or buckle will appear at bend point
– Plastic deformation is so great that the metal will
be very hard and stiff at bend
 Kinds of Damage

• A part is kinked when:

– It has a sharp bend of a small radius
– After straightening there is a visible crack or tear
in the metal, or permanent deformation
• A part is bent when:
– Change in shape of part between damaged and
undamaged areas is smooth and continuous
– Straightening part by pulling restores its shape
without areas of permanent deformation
Figure 10-2. The radius of the bend determines whether you have a kink or a bend. A
kink generally results when metal is folded more than 90 degrees. A bend in sheet
metal can be easily repaired but not a sharp kink that has deformed the metal badly.
 Using Body Hammers

• Body hammer strikes sheet metal and rebounds

off surface
• Raising means to work a dent outward, lowering
means to work a high spot down, into the body
• Swing a body hammer in a circular motion at the
wrist, not at the shoulder
• Hit part squarely and let hammer rebound
• Face of hammer must fit contour of panel
 Straightening with Dollies

• Sometimes you can reach into obstructed areas

more easily with a dolly than with a hammer
• Contour of a dolly must fit contour of back side
of damaged area
• If wrong surface hits panel, it will cause further
damage to panel
• Start with light blows from dolly, hitting exactly
where needed
• Gradually increase force, using numerous well-
placed blows
 Hammer-On-Dolly

• Hold dolly against back of damage and hammer

right over top of dolly
• Repeatedly move point of hammer impact and
dolly slightly, each blow overlapping
• Start at outside and work toward center
• Shapes of dolly and hammer must match
desired shape of panel
• Start with light hammer blows, and work up to
stronger blows
Figure 10-3. With the hammer-on-dolly method, place the dolly right behind the
damage and hit the metal right over the dolly to straighten the metal in the small area
between the tools.
 Hammer-Off-Dolly

• Used to raise low spots and lower high spots

simultaneously
• Often used to rough out or shape large areas of
damage during initial straightening
• Hold dolly under lowest area on back of panel,
then hit any area next to dolly
• Start at outer perimeter and work toward center
• Control straightening by altering how hard to hit
hammer, how hard to push dolly, how far away
dolly is from hammer blows
Figure 10-7. Note the steps for removing damage from a curved shape using a
hammer and dolly. First, start at one end of the damage, on the right. Then work
the damage on the other side. Roll out the damage toward the middle. Filler would
then be needed to give the area its final contour.
 Straightening with Spoons

• Spring hammering is a method of bumping out

damage with a hammer and dinging spoon
• Force of blow on spoon is distributed over a
large area of ridge
• With a long body spoon, you can reach into
restricted places
• Spoons can be used to pry up metal or to drive
out deep dents
• Do not stretch metal by prying out too much
 Straightening with Picks

• Picking hammers, pry picks, a dolly edge, and a

scratch awl can be used to pick or push up metal
• After an area has been raised, use a file to
identify any remaining low spots
• Pick can be inserted in drainage hole in door
– No need to drill holes
• Paintless dent removal uses picks to remove
small dents without having to repaint
• Too much pressure can stretch metal
 Pulling Damaged Areas

• Pulling is often needed because access to the

inside of panels is blocked by reinforcements
• Suction cup straightens shallow dents
• Stud spot welder joins “pull rods” on the surface
of a panel so you do not have to drill holes
– Pins are welded onto surface of panel
– Slide hammer is attached to each of the pins
– Pulls out the damage in steps
 Shrinking Metal

• Small spot in center of warped area is heated to

a dull red, causing it to swell
• Surrounding area is cool so panel can’t expand
• If heating continues, stretching of the metal is
centered in red-hot portion, pressing it out
– Causes it to thicken, relieving compression load
• If red-hot area is suddenly cooled, steel
contracts and surface area shrinks
 Torch Shrinking

• Torch shrinking uses an oxyacetylene torch to

release tension in the panel
• Average-sized area to heat is about size of a
quarter, but never larger than size of hammer
face being used
• When area has been heated, tap around it to
drive molecules of metal closer together
• Once redness has disappeared and area has
been smoothed, cool area with a wet rag to
cause metal to contract
 Shrinking a Gouge

• Gouge is caused by a focused impact that forces

a sharp dent or crease into a panel
• Gouge causes metal to be stretched and must
be shrunk to original size to repair damage
• Simply picking up low area distorts panel
• Filling gouge without restoring panel’s original
contour leaves tension in panel that could cause
filler to crack or fall off
 Identifying Stretched Metal

• Stretched metal has been forced thinner in

thickness and larger in surface area by impact
• Metal is often stretched in badly buckled places
• These same areas are sometimes stretched
during straightening
• When an area is stretched, grains of metal are
moved farther away from each other
• Before shrinking, dolly the damaged area back
as close to its original shape as possible
 Filing the Repair Area

• When area has been straightened as smooth as

possible, file across damaged area to
undamaged metal on opposite side
• Keep filing action on correct plane with good
part of panel
• Push file forward by its handle for cutting stroke,
using as long a stroke as possible
• Scratch pattern created by file identifies high and
low spots
Figure 10-18. Filing will help you locate high and low spots that need
further work. Low spots will NOT have file marks.
 Working Aluminum

• Aluminum is much softer than steel yet is more

difficult to shape once it is work-hardened
• Aluminum does not readily bend back to its
original shape after being buckled by impact
• Spring hammering with a hammer and spoon is
an excellent way to unlock stress in aluminum
• Sand carefully on aluminum
• Heat shrink stretched aluminum slowly to avoid
distorting the panel
– Aluminum does not turn red as it is heated
 Using Body Filler

• Body fillers cover up minor surface irregularities

• Prepare area by washing with soap and water,
use a wax and grease remover
• Mask trim, parts or adjacent panels that could be
damaged by grinding, sanding or filling
• Grind area to remove paint 3-4 inches around
area to be filled
• Blow away sanding dust with compressed air,
and wipe with a tack rag to remove dust
 Preparing Surface for Filler
• Many problems are linked to improper surface
preparation
• Mix can of filler to a uniform and smooth
consistency, free of lumps and not wet on top
• Mix hardener by squeezing tube back and forth
with your fingers, to a paste-like consistency
• Add hardener according to proportion indicated
on product label
Preparing Surface for Filler (continued)

• Filler over-catalyzation results from using too

much hardener
• Filler under-catalyzation is caused by not using
enough hardener
• Mix filler and hardener thoroughly to achieve a
uniform color
• Do not redip spreader or mixed filler into can, or
whole can will harden in time
• Use different spreaders to mix and apply filler
 Applying the Filler

• Apply filler as soon as you have finished mixing,

applying a thin coat to the repair area
• Press firmly to force filler into sand scratches
and holes to strengthen bond
• Work filler patch in two directions
– Left to right, then top to bottom
– Build up layers not more than 1/8 inch thick
• Spread filler about 3" beyond the repair area
 Applying the Filler (continued)

• When one layer cures and has been sanded

apply more coats to build up repair area
– Allow each layer to cure before sanding
• Build up final layer of filler slightly above panel
surface
• Sand filler down smoothly on an equal plane
with existing panel
• If needed, use fingers to bend spreader to match
shape of contour
• Avoid using filler in cold temperatures
 Shaping Filler

• Allow filler to cure to a semi-hard consistency

• Use a coarse body file to rough shape filler
• Many vehicles have sharp body lines in doors,
quarter panels, hoods, etc.
• Apply masking tape along one edge then apply
filler to adjacent surface
 Shaping Filler (continued)

• Before filler sets, pull tape off to remove excess

filler from body line
• After first application is dry and sanded, tape
opposite edge and coat adjacent surface with
filler
• Do not cover a seam sealer with body filler
 Sanding the Filler

• After filing, sand out file marks and shape filler

accurately
• Do not try to sand all imperfections in first coat of
filler
• Smooth final coat of filler with No. 180 grit
sandpaper
– Do not oversand
 Sanding the Filler (continued)

• After sanding, blow with air gun and wipe with

tack cloth
• Featheredging involves sanding the repair area
until the filler and old paint blend smoothly
– Commonly done with a DA sander
Figure 10-36. When featheredging, hold the sander flat on the
surface. Sand the body filler until it is flush with the surrounding
undamaged area. A common mistake is oversanding, trying to
remove small surface imperfections. If you find a low spot, apply
more filler to the low area. Then resand.
 Priming

• After using filler, primer-surfacer is often sprayed

on the repair area, to help fill small sand
scratches in the filler and paint
• Apply primer-surfacer in 2 – 3 coats with 5 – 15
minute flash time between coats
• Wait an hour or more before sanding primer-
surfacer
 Finishing Fillers (Putties)

• Once primer is dry, small pinholes and scratches

can be filled with spot or glazing putty
• Apply a thin coat over the primer, using single
strokes and fast scraping motion
• A guide coat is a thin layer of a different color
primer or special powder applied to the repair
– Low spot: guide coat does not sand off
– High spot: sands off too quickly
 Summary

• Two types of sheet metal used in auto body

work are hot-rolled and cold-rolled
• Tools used to straighten metals include body
hammers, spoons, dollies, suction cups, slide
hammers, and spot-welded studs
• Shrinking metal removes strain or tension on a
damaged, stretched area
• Aluminum is much softer than steel yet it is more
difficult to shape once it is work-hardened
 Summary (continued)

• Body fillers fill minor surface irregularities that

remain after straightening
• Featheredging involves sanding repair area until
filler and finish blend smoothly into each other
• Priming is done after sanding body fillers to
prepare surface for refinishing