COLLARS

COLLAR
Definition

A collar is a decorative and functional feature on the

neckline of a garment. As a decorative feature, the collar
frames the face and enhances both the garment and the
wearer. It is both decorative and functional as well as
providing warmth to the wearer. Collars may be cut on
the bias, on the lengthwise or crosswise grain depending
on the pattern or texture of the fabric and the effect
desired.
Classification
The collars are broadly classified as:

• Separate set-in collars such as peter pan and mandarin

collar

• Collars developed in part or whole in one with the waist

such as the shawl collar.

• Two-piece notched collar with a lapel and separate

collar.
 Depending on the shape of the collars they are
classified as:

• Flat fitting collar with a concave curve: it rolls

over from the neckline seam or lies flat on the body.
• Rolled collar with a convex shape: it has a stand.
A stand is the material under the collar at the centre back
which extends upwards from the garment neckline to the
point where the collar rolls or folds over.
• Stand up collar has no roll back such as or mandarin
Nehru or Chinese collar
• Shirt waist collar is a rolled collar attached to a
straight or shaped stand up neckband.
CONVERTIBLE COLLAR

This is a rolled collar. It

can be worn open or
closed.
NOTCHED COLLAR Tailored collar (Basic
2 piece notched collar)
A notched collar is a two piece collar that
can only be worn open. It consists of a lapel or
reverse, which is actually cut in one with the
garment, and a collar, which meets the lapel
resulting in a notch. Notched collars are used in all
garment categories from tailored coats and suits
to evening wear.

Single breasted style Single breasted type Double Breasted Style

with low closing with high closing
 MANDARIN COLLAR

This is a standing band that

extends up from the neckline and may be
designed to meet at the centre front
overlap or to end somewhere between
the shoulder and centre front of the
garment.
WING COLLAR

It is a tailored shirt collar with spread points and is

stitched on a neckband. It is also called dandy
collar.
PETER PAN COLLAR

It is a one piece or two piece flat collar with

rounded ends at centre front or at both centre
front and centre back. It is also called Buster
brown, Eton or Dutch collar. It may have flat
look, just enough stand to conceal the neckline
seam or a high stand at centre back with stand
variations in between depending upon the effect
desired.
BERTHA COLLAR

It is a large cape-like collar

falling over the shoulders.
Bertha collar, a wide, flat,
round collar, often of lace or
sheer fabric, worn with a low
neckline in the Victorian era
and resurrected in the 1940s.
SAILOR COLLAR

It is a large square collar hanging

in back. Front tapers to a ‘V’. it may
also be called a middy collar.
REVERSE

It is another name for lapel. It is actually an

extension of the front opening of the garment
which folds back revealing the facing.
SHAWL COLLAR
The shawl is a collar and reverse cut in one piece with
the front waist and can only be worn open. There are
many variations of the shawl collar from narrow to cape
and the collar edge may be notched or styled as desired.
POLO NECK (UK) or TURTLE NECK (US)

It is a garment—usually a sweater—with a close-fitting,

round, and high collar that folds over and covers the
neck. It can also refer to a type of neckline, the style of
collar itself, or be used as an adjective ("polo necked").
Elizabethan Collars
It has been told that proud Queen Elizabeth sponsored
this fashion for collars which would conceal the back of
the neck because she had a blemish and wished to
conceal it. It became conventional attire during her reign
along with the wide stiff ruff.
Rippled or Ruffled Collar

The rippled collar cut on a circular flare

principle, is youthful and pleasing. If collar
closes at center front, no center back seam is
needed. Circular ruffles may be introduced to
plain round collars, or small godets set into the
style line at intervals.
CASCADING COLLAR
 SLEEVES
A sleeve is a section of a garment that covers all or part of
the arm.
Classification

There are two major classifications of sleeves:

• A mounted sleeve or a sleeve set into an armhole
• A sleeve cut in one with the waist of the garment

Regardless of the classification sleeves can be short or

long, narrow or wide. Some sleeves are designed to add
width to the shoulder, others are designed to minimize
the shoulder.
 Within the two classifications there are many variations
and sub variations:

• A mounted sleeve or a sleeve set into an armhole

– Set-in (normal armhole): puffed, petal and bishop sleeve
– Raglan
– Drop shoulder

• A sleeve cut in one with the waist of the garment.

– Kimono with gusset
– Dolman or Bat Wing
RAGLEN SLEEVE
KIMONO SLEEVE
DOLMAN SLEEVE
PUFFED SLEEVE
BUTTERFLY SLEEVE
BISHOP SLEEVE
CIRCULAR CAP SLEEVE
BELL SLEEVE
LANTERN SLEEVE
SET-IN SLEEVE
ANGEL SLEEVE
ROLL-UP SLEEVE
COWL SLEEVE
CAP SLEEVE