Dr.

Umer Farooq
• Ph.D. in Textile Machatronics from University of
Leads, UK
• M.Sc. University of Leads, UK
• Chartered Textile Technologist.
• 8 years Research and Teaching Experience
• Specialization: Yarn Spinning
Topic
Innovation in Textiles: Trends and
Challenges
 INNOVATION IN TEXTILES:
Trends and Challenges
Dr. Tahir Shah
CMRI, University of Bolton, UK
Dr. Umer Farooq
University of Management and Technology, Lahore
 CONTENTS

• What is innovation?
• Innovation - The Global Textile Industry
• Pakistani Textile Industry Perspective
• Industry – University Interaction
• The Way Forward
• Conclusions
 INTRODUCTION

 The global textile industry is increasingly facing

competition from low-wage countries

 Innovations in the production, composition and application

of new textiles will be able to create stability in this sector

 New technologies in textile production and processing are

driving innovation in high-tech textile products

 New processes will lead to new products and hence to an

expansion of the traditional textile industries, both in terms
of supply and production

 Increasing globalization, new technologies and a growing

demand for new products are changing the textiles market.
 What is Innovation?

“Innovation is not the

product of logical thought,
although the result is tied to
logical structure"

Albert Einstein
 A definition of Innovation!

• There are various definitions of innovation,

depending on the context.
• Innovation is a process for transforming:

Research Based Ideas Commercial

Value
 “TO GROW, COMPANIES NEED
TO BREAK OUT OF A VICIOUS
CYCLE OF COMPETETIVE
BENCHMARKING AND
IMMITATION”

W.Chan Kim & Rene Mauborgne, “Think for yourself –

Stop Copying a Rival”, Financial Times, 08-11-03
Main Objectives of Innovation

Value Diversification
Addition Of Economy

INNOVATION

Economic Technological
Growth Sovereignty
 The Innovation Process

An innovation starts as a concept that is refined

and developed before application.

BASIC ADAPTATION
RESEARCH AND
MARKETING

PRODUCT
APPLIED DEVELOPMENT
(Including market
RESEARCH research)
Components of an Innovation System

Infrastructure

People Institutions

IS
Environment Will
 Benefits of R&D

Research Development Investment in

Innovation

Consumer
Benefits and New Products/
Processes
Satisfaction

More Jobs
More Goods
Increased Company
Investment
Higher GNP Profits
Textile Industry: The need to Innovate

The Textile industry is subject to strong pressures in a fast-

changing business environment due to two main factors:
 Market volatility and
 Strong competition world-wide

• The industry need to enhance its capability to produce and

market high quality and added value products

• This requires emphasis on new technology, design,

marketing and management

• Textile manufacturers must consider when/how to innovate

Size of Major Global Industrial Sectors

Annual Sales (US$ Bn)

Military 800
Machine construction 800
Automotive 1100
Chemicals 1320
Textiles 1620
Information technology 2850
Tourism 2900
LEADERS
LEADERS
IN TEXTILE
IN INNOVATION:
INNOVATION:
Industries
Industries

ASSOCIATIONS
5%
AUTOMOTIVE
6%
1% 5% CHEMICAL
CONSULTING
14%
28% ELECTRONICS
FINANCIAL INST
1%
3% MEDICAL
1%
3% OTHER MANUFAC
PRESS
9%
13% 3% REFINEMENT
8%
RESEARCH INST
TEXTILES/FIBRES
LEADERS IN TEXTILE INNOVATION: COUNTRIES

USA

3% 3% AUSTRIA
7%
13% 10% BEGIUM
DENMARK
1%
6% FRANCE
1%
GERMANY
3%
5% INDIA
2% IRELAND
1% ISRAEL
NERHERLAND
1%
POLAND
44% SWEDEN
SWITZERLAND
UK
 Some important market aspects

• Market pull from fresh approach to future life

styles/fashion
• Aging population – better quality of life
• Changing market – Changes in needs
 Highly functional sports and leisure wear
 Personal protection, safety and comfort
 Integration of textile technology, electronics and
 communication technologies
Increasing textile customer demands

 Hydrophobic
 Hydrophilic
 Anti-bacterial
 Barrier
 Breathability
 Antistatic
 Stretch
 Smart/Intelligent
 It is the consumer demand that leads
to new innovative technologies and value
added textile materials.
Factors impacting the future generation of textiles

Flexibility: Small batches,

New polymers,
Just in time
Renewable materials
Customized production

Raw Materials Processes

Impacting
Factors

Functionalities Environment

Dynamic properties, Anti-microbial Water use, Energy use

Self-cleaning, Smart textiles, Chemicals, Working conditions,
Comfort Disposal, Recyling
Emerging finishing technologies for textiles

• Plasma technology
Atmospheric and low-pressure Treatments

• Microencapsulation technology
Functional fabric finishing

• Nanotechnology
Nano coating, Electrospinning
 What is Nanotechnology?

Nanotechnology deals with the science and

technology at dimensions of roughly 1 to
100 nanometers (nm).

1 Billion Nanometres = 1 Metre

100 nanometers presently is the practically

attainable dimension for textile products and
applications.
 Growth of Nanotechnology

The nature of nanotechnology research and development

suggests that nanomaterials production is going to impact
every industry, including textiles.
Nanotechnology currently being developed and used

• Nanotechnology can be used in engineering desired textile attributes:

Fabric softness, durability, and breathability

• Developing advanced performance characteristics, namely:

 Water repellency, fire retardancy, antimicrobial resistance, etc.

• In the forms of:

Polymeric nanofibres
Conjugate fibres containing nano-particles
Textile materials with nanofinishes
Textile coatings containing nano-particles

Nanotechnology presents a tremendous opportunity for the global textile

industry to generate new products that could energize the economy, solve
major societal problems, revitalize existing industry, and create entirely new
businesses.
 Impact of Nanotechnology on Textiles Industry

A recent report shows that:

• The global market for nanotechnology in the Textiles industry was

around US$480 million in 2007.

• A number of nano-based products have already been introduced to the

sector including stain, water and fire resistant fabrics.

• Nano-based products and processes will be worth US$4.9 billion to the

Textiles industry by 2015.

• Nearly 25% of all textiles products available in 2015 will incorporate some
form of nanotechnology -hygiene area, which covers numerous
markets from household care to leisure and consumer goods to healthcare.

• Nanotechnology based applications such self-cleaning textiles as will start

to make a major impact from 2011.
Nanotechnology: functional finishing

The functional finishing are processes which

impart specific performance properties to fabrics

For example finishes that:

 Improve comfort
 Improve ease of maintenance
 Improve durability
 Provide environmental protection
 Provide biological resistance
 Self-cleaning fibres
Small things can create big businesses !!!
Active Areas of Textile R&D: Functional Textiles

 Fragrance release textiles

 Photocatalytic textile coatings
 Shape Memory Polymers for Intelligent textiles
 Self-Cleaning Fabrics
 Carbon Nanotubes for Electronic Textiles
 Multifunctional Coatings for Medical Textile Applications
 Textile switches and sensors, and electronic noses
 Bioactive wound dressings
 Electrically conductive textiles
 Stain and water repellent textiles
 Healing textiles
Applications of Nanotechnology Based Textiles

Protective/functional

Nanofibres and Hospital/healthcare

Fibres containing
nanoparticles
Automotive parts
Added
Value Smart clothing
Textiles
Finishes and
Aerospace/defence
coatings of nano-
based materials
Sports/leisure

Filter media
 Innovation:
A Pakistani
Textile Industry
Perspective
Pakistani Textile Industry: As It appears --

• Pakistani textile industry is a major

contributor to the economy of the
country
• The sector has not yet realised its full
potential
• The industry is still too traditionally
minded
• The industry needs to take full
advantage of the developments in the
global arena
 Pakistan's Main Exports (2005-06) Values in Million US $
TOTAL EXPORT 10270 Million US $
2500

2000

1500

1000

500

0
Cotton Fabrics Made-Ups Cotton Yarn Bed Ware Hosiery Ready-Made Synthetic Carpets & Other Textiles
(Incl. Tow els) Garments Textiles Rugs
 Value in Million US $

500
1000
1500
2000
2500

0
1971-72
1972-73
1973-74
1974-75
1975-76
1976-77
1977-78
1978-79
1979-80
1980-81
1981-82
1982-83
1983-84
1984-85
1985-86
1986-87
1987-88
1988-89

Period
1989-90
1990-91
1991-92

Office, Pakistan
1992-93
1993-94
1994-95
1995-96
1996-97
1997-98
1998-99
Towels

Hoisery

1999-00
Garments
Bed Wear
Cotton Yarn

2000-01
Cotton Cloth

2001-02
Tents and Canvas

2002-03
2003-04
Source: Textile Commission Organisation -TCO / Central Statistics

2004-05
Export of Textile Products – from 1971 - 2006

2005-06
 Pakistan Textile (US
Industry:
$ 10.211 B A snapshot

Exports US $ 10.211 BN (62.1% OF TOTAL EXPORTS)

Manufacturing 46% OF TOTAL MANUFACTURING

Employment 38% OF TOTAL LABOUR FORCE

GDP 8.5% OF TOTAL GDP

Contribution to R&D RS 263 MILLION (<0.05% of Textile exports!)

 Global R&D spending targets

Country/region R&D intensity in 2002 R&D target Target

(Per cent of GDP) date
European Union 1.85 3.0 per cent of GDP 2010
Austria 2.12 2.5 per cent of GDP 2006
Canada 1.96 Top 5 in OECD 2010
Germany 2.53 3.0 per cent of GDP 2010
Korea 2.53 Significant > (x2) 2007

Norway 1.67 At least OECD average 2005

India 0.8 ????? 2010
China 1.23 Significant > 2010
Pakistan <0.05 (2006) ???????? 2010
USA 2.75 ? 2010
 Innovation Performance
Patents Innovation
per Performance
Countries million Index Rank
Japan 1274.533 10 1
Switzerland 505.839 9.71 2
Finland 363.289 9.5 3
USA 359.84 9.5 4
Singapore 111.37 8.75 16
UK 105.211 8.72 18
China 0.529 5.39 54
India 0.467 5.31 56
Pakistan 0.015 3.13 77
Innovation Index of selected countries in a study
conducted in 2009 of 82 countries across the world.
Patents data are averaged over 2004-07 and expressed as
patents per million population for each country- Economist
2009
 Innovation Performance
Growth %
Expected Expected Expected
Innovation in Change
Performance next 5 in Rank
Countries Index Rank Years
China 5.98 46 11 8
India 5.72 52 7.7 4
Pakistan 3.42 77 9.1 0

Innovation Performance Index of selected countries

over a period of 5 years (2009 to 2013)

Economist 2009
 CMRI Bolton University:
(US $ 10.211 B
Examples of Current Innovative R&D

• Wound dressings/bandages
• Wearable devices (Breast Cancer Detection)
• Active cooling fabrics
• Conducting flexible materials
• Auxetic Fibres
• Ballistic protection composite
• Hybrid geotextiles
• Nanocomposites
 Pakistan Textile Industry: The
(US $ 10.211 B Way Forward

• Pakistani textile industry must adopt a fresh approach to technology adoption

• The companies and government need to invest resources into R&D

• Develop the ability to create specialized products

• These could include textiles made using new technologies – woven,

knitting, nonwoven, etc.

• New products – surgical gowns, geotextiles, fabrics used in agriculture,

high-fashion apparel, and fire-resistant work-wear.

• The textile industry should be a knowledge-intensive industry - willing to look

for and apply knowledge
Trying to match low-wage
countries with low cost
production
- Surely a losing strategy.
 Pakistan Textile Industry: What is needed?
(US $ 10.211 B

 Improve infrastructure services as a foundation for

technology development
 Improve higher education in science and engineering
 Link universities with private sector activities
 Breakdown barriers between university departments
 Promote innovative activities in science & technology
 Improve policy to create/promote innovative environment
 Focus on strategic and under-funded research areas
 Pakistan Textile Industry: Some
(US $ 10.211 B Specific Actions

 Establish Centres of Excellence

> Education
> R&D
> Targeted workshops/training programmes

 Focus on new and emerging technologies

> Technical textiles
> Nonwovens
> Medical Textiles
> Geotextiles
> Nanotechnology
> Effluent minimisation and treatment/disposal
Innovation: Industry-University
(US $ 10.211 B Interaction

• Benefits of universities, industry and society working together:

– Sponsored research projects: funding, equipment and resource donations
– Shared knowledge
– Source of employment
– New idea generation
• Universities and industrial organisations have much to gain
from each other
• There is a strong need to improve interaction between these
two important sectors
• This will enhance innovative activities in the textile sector
• An effective mechanism is needed to nurture this interaction
 CONCLUSIONS
(US $ 10.211 B

• Innovation has become the major driving

force in economic growth and social
development in the West.

• This is reflected by the fact that Western

countries are promoting innovation as one
of their core strategies.

• Providing support for activities and

initiatives that promote an innovative and
knowledge driven economy.
 A Final Thought !!!!!

There are three kinds of organizations:

• Those that resist change

• Those that accept change

• Those that seek change

 Surely Allah does not
change the condition of a
people until they change
their own condition.
[Al-Qur'an (13:11) ]
INNOVATION IS
NOT AN ABSOLUTE
NECESSITY BUT
THEN NEITHER IS
SURVIVAL!
Thank you