Documenti di Didattica
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Fabric Studies
-Presented
by
-Bindu Basanna
-FCT 2015-16
Stitch Classes
Industrial sewing machines are classified
according to their intended use and the means
of forming stitches.
A stitch can be defined as ‘one unit of
conformation resulting from one or more
strands or loops of thread intralooping,
interlooping, or passing through material’.
The six classes of stitches as given in
Federal Standard 751a are
Class 100 Chain Stitches
Class 200 stitches originating as hand stitches
Class 300 Lock stitches
Class 400 Multi Thread Chain Stitches
Class 500 Over Edge Stitches
Class 600 Covering Chain Stitches
Class 100 Chain Stitches
The stitch class 100 includes stitch types 101, 102, 103, 104
and 105.
The chain stitch class 100 is formed with one or more needle
threads that form a loop on the underside of the fabric.
There is no lower thread.
One of the simplest of all stitch types is 101, which is formed
from a single thread.
It can be easily removed and it is used for basting operations in
tailored men’s wear and women’s wear.
It can only be used where the marks of needle penetration close
up afterwards in pressing.
A basting operation, in positions such as edges, flaps, collars,
and so on, is a temporary stitch, allowing accurate placement of
permanent stitches.
The blind stitch version, 103, utilizes a curved needle
in order to, successively penetrate partially into the
fabric, and then into the hem edge, while showing
minimally or not at all on the right side of the
garment.
Stitch No. of
Diagram Typical Uses
Class Thread
Basting, or
Class One
light
101 Thread
construction
Stitch No. of
Diagram Typical Uses
Class Thread
Basting,
Class 202 One Thread Tacking or
Repairs
Pick Stitch -
Class 205 One Thread
Topstitching
202 Class Stitch
Single Thread Hand Stitch Using One
Needle Thread
Typical uses; Basting, Tacking and Repairs
205 Class stitch
Single Thread Stitch Using One Needle Thread
Typical uses; "Pick Stitch" Topstitch
Class 300 Lock Stitches
The lock stitch class 300 is the most commonly used and is
easiest to understand.
Lock stitch machine requires 2 threads to form a stitch, a needle
thread that feeds from the top and a lower thread that feeds
from a bobbin.
A rotary hook or shuttle catches the needle thread loop as it
passes around the bobbin and interlocks the two threads.
If a lock stitch thread breaks, the two threads used to form the
stitch lock and the whole line of stitches won’t unravel.
Lock stitch machines are versatile and can be used for a variety
of operations. It is also the only stitch formation that can be
backstitched.
Thus, a lock stitch machine is a good choice for a small
manufacturer that produces fashion goods.
Two
Class 301 Seaming Multiple Plies
Threads
Two
Class 306 Blind Stitch
Thread
Cover stitches 602 & 605 are very strong and elastic stitches
used extensively by manufacturers of knit garments to cover
raw edges and prevent raveling.
They may be used for attaching flat knit or ribbed knit collars.
When the upper spreader thread is removed from these stitches
they become 406 and 407 types, respectively.
Class 602 is a 4 thread stitch with 2 needle threads, 1 looper
thread, and 1 top covering thread. Class 605 is similar stitch but
with 3 needle threads, 1 looper thread, and 1 top covering
thread
Stitch type 607
Wide Covering
Six
Class 607 Stitch or Butt-
Thread
Seams