Seam Classification

What is seam?
• Seam is a line to join two or more ply of fabric.
Seam is used as functional purpose. Some
time it used as decorative purpose.
 Properties of good seam
 Smooth fabric join
 No missed or uneven stitches
 No damage to the material being sewn
 Achievement of strength, elasticity, Durability, Security and
comfort.
 Comfortable while garment is in use
 Classification of seam
Seam construction- Categorized by the British standard institution. The
stitched seam are divided into eight class:

 Class 1: Plain seam & French seam (supper imposed seam)

 Class 2: Welt seam or Lapped seam
 Class 3: Bound seam
 Class 4: Channel seam or flat seam
 Class 5: Ornamental or Decorative seam
 Class 6: Turned hem or, Edge neatening
 Class 7: Edge stitched seam
 Class 8: Enclosed seam
 Class 1 – Plain seam & French seam (SI Seam)

CLASS 1 –SUPER IMPOSED SEAM DEFINITION:

 The seam of class-1 is called superimposed seam. This is the most
common & mostly used seam for joining fabrics. In this seam, two or more
plies of fabric are placed one on another perfectly & then the fabrics are
sewn. The sewn edges of the fabrics remain in the same side.
 USED:
– Join fabrics.
– Collar, Cuff sewing, Cuff topstitching. SEAM DIAGRAM:
– Collar band attach sewing and top stitching
– Side seam and sleeve attach with safety-sticker.
 Class 2- Welt seam or Lapped seam

CLASS 2- LAPPED SEAM SEEM DEFINITION:

 Formed by lapping two pieces of component, they are produced with minimum of two pieces of
component.
 One component is limited on one end and the other is limited on the other end. The limited edges of
these two components are put in opposite directions.
 In this category of seams in which two or more plies of fabric are overlapped with the raw edges
exposed (for fabrics resistant to raveling) or the seam allowance is folded under and stitched with
one or more rows of stitching.
USED: main seaming of denim jackets, jeans, and overalls. Fabrics
that will not ravel, unlined garments, side seams of shirts, joining SEAM DIAGRAM:
lace to another fabric, attaching patch pockets, decorative finish
 Class 3-Bound seam
CLASS 3- BOUND SEAM DEFINITION:

 Constructed by binding the component edge with another narrow component.

The seam produced with minimum of two pieces of component.
 One component is limited on one end and the other is limited on both ends. In this
category of seams in which the raw edges of the seam allowance of one or, more
plies of fabric, are covered with a bias binding and stitched with one or, more rows
of stitching.
 Used: Finishing necklines, sleeves hems, inside
waistbands of trousers and pants, finishing seams on SEAM DIAGRAM:
unlined jackets and coats, adding interest as a design or
decorative detail, finishing raw edges, continuing the
motif design of lace
 Class 4- Channel seam or flat seam
CLASS 4: FLAT SEAM DEFINITION:
 Two pieces of fabric are laid flat with their edges closing each other without
overlapping. Seams are produced with minimum of two pieces of component.
 Both components are limited on one end but they are put opposition to each
other on the same level.
 In this category of seams in which the raw edges of the fabric plies are abutted or
just slightly overlapped and joined together with stitching that covers the joint.
Flat seams do not contain seam allowances, reducing fabric usage but increasing
thread quantity. SEAM DIAGRAM:
 Used: Close fitting garments where the seam allowance
may put pressure on the body, high- stretch fabrics
athletic apparel, shape wear, undergarments, lingerie,
thermal underwear, swimwear, sweatshirts with side
panels or with raglan sleeves, eliminating bulk at seams,
seaming pelts
 Class 5- Ornamental or, Decorative seam

CLASS 5: Ornamental or, Decorative seam:

 A seam class is used for decorative sewing on garments. Seams are produced with
minimum of one piece of component, with unlimited edges on both ends.
 In this category of seams that add ornamentation to one or more plies of fabric by
creating straight or curved lines or a designated design.
 Used: Adding a design detail, cording, piping, tucking, welting, box or inverted
pleating, decorative stitching.

SEAM DIAGRAM:
 Class 6-Turned hem or, Edge neatening
CLASS 6: TURNED HEM OR, EDGE NEATENING SEAM DEFINITION:
 Stitching work made on the fabric edges for neatening.
 Seams are produced with one piece of component. This seam has one limited edge
on one end.
 In this category of seam constructed with one or two plies of fabric used to finish
the edge of a garment or item. There are three finishing types within the
classification.
– First, secures a folded edge to the shell fabric by stitching, either on the face or back.
– Second, stitching is used at the edge or to cover the raw edges, and may or may not be folded.
– Third, applies a binding on a single ply of a seam allowance to finish raw edges.

 Used: To protect the fabric edge such that the warp yarns of SEAM DIAGRAM:
the fabric cannot easily open.
 Class 7- Edge stitched seam

CLASS 7: NO TITLE SEAM DEFINITION:

 A narrow piece is sewn to the edge of a garment part.
 Seams are produced with minimum of two pieces of component. One component
is limited on one end, and the other narrow one is limited on both ends.
 Used: These are sometimes called applied seams because they are mainly used to
a decorative material to an edge of seam such as lace-elastic.

SEAM DIAGRAM:
 Class 8- Enclosed seam

CLASS 8: NO TITLE SEAM DEFINITION:

 Only one piece of component involved in construction the seam, stitches are
applied on its edges.
 Seams are produced with minimum of one piece of component with a limited
edge on two ends.
 Used:
 Mainly one piece of fabric used.
 This class is commonly used for waist belts and belt loops.
 The edge of fabric is sewn by folding in various ways.
SEAM DIAGRAM:
Thank