Woven Fabric Structure (2)

Twill, Satin & Sateen

Dr. Jimmy Lam
Institute of Textiles & Clothing
 Learning Objectives

 Fabric properties of twill weave;

 Fabric properties of satin weave;
 Special weave structures.
 Twill Weave
Fabric Characteristics
 Twill Weave
Characteristics (I)
 The values of the twill weave include its strength and
drapability
 The diagonally arranged interlacing of the warp and
weft provide greater pliability and resilience than the
plain weave.
 Twill weave fabrics are more tightly weave and will
not get dirty as quickly as the plain weave.
 The yarns are usually closely beaten, making
especially durable fabric.
 Twill weave are commonly used in men’s suits and
coats.
 Twill Weave (II)
Characteristics
 Twill line can be made more pominent by using:
 Plied yarns; high twist yarns; twill weaves with longer
floats; higher number of yarns per inch; and yarn twist
opposite to the twill-line direction.
 Fabric with these lines may become flattened by
wear and pressure, and thus become shiny.
 Twill Derivates
Broken Twill Weave
 Many combinations and variation of twill
constructions are possible.
 These produce interesting effect.
 The most well-known are herringbone (broken
twill), gabardine and corkscrew twill.
Broken Twill Weave

Herringbone Weave
 Broken Twill Weave

Gabardine Weave Corkscrew Weave

Herringbone twill on point paper
3) Satin Weave
 Satin Weave (I)

 Similar to twill weave but the diagonal line of the satin

weave is not visible.
 It is purposely interrupted in order to contribute to the
flat, smooth, lustrous surface desired.
 There is no visible design on the face of the fabric.
 In a true satin weave, each warp and weft yarn only
interlace once in each repeat of weave.
 Thus, satin weave fabrics have relatively long floats.
Satin Weave

5 shaft warp face 5 shaft weft

satin face satin

Warp face satin Weft face

On graph paper Satin on
graph
paper
 Satin Weave (II)

 In a warp face satin, the face is predominantly

warp yarn, while for a weft face satin, the weft
yarns are predominant on the face.
 Satin weave may be designated by the number
of harnesses they require in weaving, such as
five-harness satin.
 Satin-weave Fabric

 Satin fabric is made from filament yarns, with the warp

yarns predominant on the face.
 Satin fabrics are smooth and lustrous because lustrous
filament yarns are used; there are few interlacing
points, that gives long floats; and the face yarns are
fine and closely packed.
 Since the greatest lustre is in the lengthwise (warp)
direction, garments using this fabric in warp direction
show lustre effect.
 Sateen Fabric

 Sateen fabric is a durable cotton fabric, usually

with weft face satin weave.
 It is not lustrous as satin fabric as spun yarns are
used.
 Since it is also heavier, with thicker yarns, it is
not as drapable as satin fabric.
 Characteristics (Satin fabric)
 Satin weave fabric drapes well because the weave is
and heavier than the twill weave.
 The compactness of the weave gives the fabric more
body as well as less porosity, which makes the fabric
warmer.
 The quality of drapability makes satin fabric preferable
for evening wear and the warmth contributes to its
value as lining material.
 Although the long floats of the yarn provide lustre to
the satin weave fabrics, they are responsible for the
poor wearing quality of many of these fabrics
Comparison of Basic Weave Properties
 Discussion

 Why the fabric tearing strength is highest for

satin weave and lowest for plain weave?
 Why the lustre effect is lowest for plain weave
but highest for satin weave?