Introduction to Textile Fabric

Part 3: Double Knit Structures

Dr. Jimmy Lam
Institute of Textiles & Clothing
The Hong Kong Polytechnic University
 Content
• What is double knit fabrics
• Characteristics of double knit
fabrics
• Examples of double knit fabrics:
– 1X1 Rib, 2 x 2 rib, half cardigan, full
cardigan, half milano and full milano.
• Interlock Fabric
• Modified interlock fabrics
 Double Knit Fabric
• Double knit fabrics or double jersey
are knitted fabrics produced by
machines using two set of needles.
• They can be produced by:
1. Rib and non-jacquard machines
2. Interlock machines
 General Characteristics
(Double knit fabrics)
• Fabric Appearance
– It takes two set of needles to produce a
piece of double knit fabric; each set of
needles produce their own loops on one side
of fabric.
• Balance of structure
– As double knit fabrics have loops on both
sides, curling is not so worse as single knit
structure.
 General Characteristics
(Double knit fabrics)2
• Fabric Weight and thickness
– Double knit fabrics are generally heavier and thicker
than single knit fabrics because the number of loops
per unit area is much more on double knit fabrics.
– Factors affect the fabric weight and thickness are:
• Yarn count and machine gauge;
• Fabric structure;
• Stitch density and
• Type of finish.
• Fabric elasticity
– The elasticity of double knit fabrics is mainly
affected by their structures. Normally double knit
fabrics are more elastic than single knit fabrics.
 The rib and non-
jacquard structures
 The rib structure
• All structures of this group are
produced by two sets of needles with
the opposite needles off set for half a
needle space;
• Ie. The head of the needles are not
directly facing each other.
Rib Gating
 Example of double knit
fabric : 1x1 rib
• This is the most simple
double knit structure. It
can be made on V-bed
knitting machine and
circular rib machine.
• 1x1 rib fabric is one course
per repeat structure.
• Both face and back looks
exactly the same.
 Characteristics
of 1x1 rib
• The 1x1 rib is a perfectly balanced
structure.
• The torque in the yarn is neutralized by the
loops forming on the two side of the fabric
alternatively; no curling will occur on the
edge.
• The elastic recovery of 1x1 rib fabric is
exceptionally high along the width.
• When relaxed the fabric shrunk so much
that only the technical face loops can be
seen on both sides.
 End uses of
1x1 rib
• Underwears
– It is common to use this structure for men’s underwear
such as the vest, knitted on 16 gauge with 20Ne cotton
– This gives a light weight and elastic fabric of 100-120
g/m2.
• Sweater
– In the cut and sewn knitwear group, 1x1 rib of the
medium gauges (7-12) knitted on wool or acrylic yarns
are for ladies’ jumper. For example 2/32 Nm acrylic yarn
on 12 gauge machine.
• Waist Band
– The rib cuff, waist band or neck strap of the sweaters
are usually 1x1 rib structure.
– All the rib top of socks are 1x1 rib plus rubber inlay.
 Examples of double knit
2x2 rib and broad ribs
• Similar to 1x1 rib, this is also an one
course per repeat structure.
• The main difference is that it is composed
of 2 technical face loops and 2 back loops
per repeat along the course.
• The 2x2 rib is most popular for the cuffs
and waist bands for the coarse gauge
knitwears.
2x2 rib
 2x2 ribs
• There are two methods to
produce 2x2 ribs on knitting
machine
• Method 1: with every 3rd
needles out of action
• Method 2: with every 3rd and
4th needles out of action.
 2x2 rib
• The fabrics produced from these two
methods are more or less the same.
• Method 1, however, gives a tighter fabric
and more elastic fabric.
• This method is used on circular rib
machine and V-bed machine. Sometimes,
the rib is called 2x1 rib
• Method 2 is a true 2x2 rib and is used on
purl machine and double cylinder only.
 Yarn Path diagrams
This is another method to represent
the loop formation sequence of a
knitted fabric.
The yarn path diagram is very easy to
understand, especially when it is used
on double knit structures.
Yarn Path Notation
 The broad ribs
(fancy ribs)
• Any rib which is wider than 2x2 rib can be
classified as broad ribs or fancy ribs.
• Example the Derby rib which is 6x3 rib is
generally used on the pullovers.
• Fancy rib can be of any combination in face
and back wales, such as 10 x5; 20 x 4 etc
Fancy Rib (broad rib)
 Discussion
• What is double knit fabric?
• Which fabric is more elastic, plain or
1x1 rib fabric?