Ocean Waves

Faisal Akbar 15515010

Alif Akbar Putra Bharata 15515027
Bagus Danang 15515040
Eril Arioristanto 15515064
Aspects of a
water wave
 Wave
formation
 The great majority of large breakers seen at a beach result from
distant winds. Five factors influence the formation of the flow
structures in wind waves:
1. Wind speed or strength relative to wave speedthe wind must
be moving faster than the wave crest for energy transfer
2. The uninterrupted distance of open water over which the wind
blows without significant change in direction (called the fetch)
Wave 3. Width of area affected by fetch
formation 4. Wind duration the time for which the wind has blown over
the water.
5. Water depth
Types of wind
waves
 Surface waves are inherently nonlinear: The solution of the
equations of motion depends on the surface boundary conditions,
but the surface boundary conditions are the waves we wish to
Linear Theory calculate.
We begin by assuming that the amplitude of waves on the water
of Ocean surface is innitely small so the surface is almost exactly a plane.
Surface Waves To simplify the mathematics, we can also assume that the ow is
2-dimensional with waves traveling in the x-direction.
 With these assumptions, the sea-surface elevation of a wave
traveling in the x direction is:

= asin(kxt)
with
= 2f = 2/T; k = 2/L
 Wave frequency is related to wave number k by the dispersion
relation

Dispersion =gktanh(kd)

Relation
where d is the water depth and g is the acceleration of gravity.
 Deep-water approximation is valid if the water depth d is much
greater than the wave length L. In this case, d L, kd 1, and
tanh(kd) = 1.
Two
approximation Shallow-water approximation is valid if the water depth is much
s are especially less than a wavelength. In this case, d L, kd 1, and tanh(kd) =
kd.
useful
For these two
limits of water Deep-water dispersion relation:
=gk
depth compared d > L/4
with wavelength
the dispersion Shallow-water dispersion relation:
=gkd
relation reduces
d < L/11
to:
 The phase velocity c is the speed at which a particular phase of the
wave propagates, for example, the speed of propagation of the
wave crest.
In one wave period T the crest advances one wave length L and the
phase speed is c = L/T = /k. Thus, the denition of phase speed is:
Phase Velocity c /k
The direction of propagation is perpendicular to the wave crest
and toward the positive x direction.
The deep- and
shallow-water c=g/k=g/ (Deep-water phase velocity)
approximation c=gd (Shallow-water phase velocity)

s for the
dispersion
relation give:
 The concept of group velocity cg is fundamental for understanding
the propagation of linear and nonlinear waves.
First, it is the velocity at which a group of waves travels across the
ocean.
Group Velocity More importantly, it is also the propagation velocity of wave
energy.
The denition of group velocity in two dimensions is:
cg/k
 cg=g2=c/2 (Deep-water group velocity)
Cg=gd=c (Shallow-water group velocity)

Notice that a group of deep-water waves moves at half

Using the the phase speed of the waves making up the group.
approximation How can this happen? If we could watch closely a group
of waves crossing the sea, we would see waves crests
s for the appear at the back of the wave train, move through the
train, and disappear at the leading edge of the group.
dispersion
Each wave crest moves at twice the speed of the group.
relation:
 Wave energy E in Joules per square meter is related to the
variance of sea-surface displacement by:
E = wg<>
where w is water density, g is gravity, and the brackets denote a
Wave Energy time or space average.
A short record
of wave
amplitude
measured by a
wave buoy in
the north
Atlantic.
Thank you