Third International Textile Conference on

Textile and Clothing , Lahore ,Pakistan

28th and 29th March 2011
Pearl Continental Hotel Lahore
A Study of Possibility of Improvement of Physical
&Mechanical Characteristics of Damask Fabrics
Assoc. Professor Dr. Taher Rajab Kaddar
Department of Textile and Spinning Engineering
Faculty of Chemical and Petroleum Engineering
AL-Baath University - Syria
E - mail : dr.t-kadd@mail.sy

 A Study of Dr.TaherRajabKaddar
AssociateProfessor
Possibility of
DepartmentofTextileand
Improvement of SpinningEngineering
Physical FacultyofChemicaland
&Mechanical PetroleumEngineering

Characteristics AL-BaathUniversity

of Damask Syria
Fabrics E-mail:dr.t-kadd@mail.sy

2
:Introduction-1 1-Introduction

Syrian textile industry works to enhancing the marketing of their

products.
The physical and mechanical properties play an important role in
achieving competitiveness.

The Damask Fabrics are a significant heritage products in Syria.

Damask Fabrics manufacturing technology, was one of the five
weaving technologies centers in Byzantine and Islamic in the early
Middle Ages .

It has been in the last century and in this century manufactured

from silk , cotton... as Broker fabrics , Damask Fabrics , Al-Aagbani,
Those textiles are still popular despite the competition with foreign
industry .
It draw the attention of foreigners in Damascus, and they buy
them for their friends and relatives in their country.

It is enough to know that the wedding dress of Queen Elizabeth II

of Britain was made of the Damascus Brokar tissues. in 1947.
3
 1-Introduction
Today's Damask must achieve the requirements of international standard
specifications,inordertowithstandthechallengeswhichitfaces.
Wehavebeeninthisresearchthedefinition,Damaskhistoryproduction.
Through the practical study in a national company (General Company for
spinning and weaving Damascus) were studied physical and mechanical
properties of Damask produced in the country (type of yarn used, the linear
densityofYarns,tensilestrengthandelongationoftheclothinthedirectionof
warpandweft,weightpersquare&longitudinalmeter,weave,width,)

Weareproducedtwonewimprovedvarietieswithnewspecificationsaccording
to international market requirements to enhance the competitiveness of the
company,whichmakestheSyriantextileindustrymoreeffectively.

Research constitutes an important contribution in continuous improvement &

developmentofSyriantextilecompanies.
Thesearchresultscanbeappliedinallsimilartextilecompanies

4
 2Abriefhistory
When you mention the word Damask, comes to mind immediately the name of
Damascus, Syria , called Damask of Fame to Damascus produced by the
manufacture of other textiles of high quality. These industries have become a
distinctivepartoftheheritageofSyria.Itwasmadeofsilkorcottonorlinenandis
nowproducedfromanyrawmaterialsaspossible.Damascuspeopletransferredits
industrytoAndalusiasoit'scalledaccordingtoDamascus,Damaskhasmanytypes
such as Atlas and Al-Thabori and Hermazi and AL-Munier (Enlightening) , AL-
Mushem ( Contributor ) and Baptist and Corrugated and Ragged Rainy and
Almekhel.

Damaskwidthwas145cm,nowhasincreasedto220cm.

IthaslostmarketshareafterthenineteenthcenturyoutofMuslimSpain,butthatit
was rarely in some places in the thirteenth century. [2, 17, 18].
Italy Damask industry began in the fourteenth century. It is the fourteenth century
untilthesixteenthcenturyDamaskwasmadeinonecolordrawingsofshinyfaceon
the cloth and normal ground. Then was woven from colors yarn , and have been
introducedinthemetalyarninit'sconstruction,suchasgoldandotherweftyarn,
whichgaveitaglamorousandbeautiful.
5
 2Abriefhistory
Damascus is famous in textile manufacturing . (Qaimariya) is called in small
India , and depending on the popularity of this industry , the textile trade is
concentratedinDamascus...Theindustryisstillpresenteventoday.

DuringthereignofLouisXVIandhiswifeMarieAntoinetteofAustriaattheage
of15years,marriedtoLouisXVIattheageof19years.Aftermonthsattended
a fashion designer and offered her a cloth and said she'll like it because it is
veryrareandismadeinaneasterntownknownfortextileindustryandwhen
she saw it said (this is what I want and what I wanted to, I've really liked
Damask, Damascus Brokare (Brocade) is unmatched which is befitting for
ladies. And spread the ancient The newly dramatically all over the world.
Modern Damask produced byAElectronic Weaving Machinery equipped with
electronic Jacquard and multi-threaded natural and artificial [1,5,8,15,21,24].
Used in addition to blankets to clothing and home furnishings,upholsteryand
manyotheruses.

TheSyriantextileindustryhasrisenhighly,itisoneoftheimportantindustries
whichthegovernmentistryingthroughitsplanstoovercomealltheobstacles
encountered in order to create the right atmosphere for Arab and foreign
investorstoinvestinit.Itisanstrategyindustry,dependsontheSyriancotton 6
 Classification the Syrian textile heritage - 3
There are more than a hundred kind of traditional fabrics, each type of about twenty
species, characterized by some of the material and color, drawing, patterns and
trimmings,etc.Herearesomeofthem:

Brokare ( Brocade) : A silk cloth decorated with beautiful drawings interspersed with
goldthreadandsilver.
Al-Dema : AfabricinventedbymanofDamascus.
Al-Saieh : epigraphy technical fabric is characterized by bright, made from silk and
cottonindifferentcolors.
Al-Alajh:typeofAlsaih.
Blanket:theadvantageoffeesobtrusive

Al-Agbani: Cloth made from silk, embroidered after waving with brocaded thread or
yellow or silver, each drawing or embroidering take a special name .
Damask: Gabardine and thick fabric , tapestries weaved his body to the degree of
innovation, has gained wide fame, fit the faces of mattresses and sofas.
Poplars' Fashions : A modern industry based on making clothing suitable for use
embroideredwomenblousesmadeofBrocadecoatsandwomen'sdecorativelacyand
otherpopularclothingrepresentthevariousSyriancitiesandruralareas.
Table1 and Table 2 include Some types of a Damask fabrics.
In spite of that machinery textile industries dominated heavily on fabrics manufactured
onhandlooms,butitarestilltopofwingsexhibitionsinterestedinthiskindofarttextile
 Classification the Syrian textile heritage - 3

Table 1 Some types of Damask

fabrics
Damask Digital BabyDamask Waverly

Dandy Damask It is Damask Damask Damask Shower

8
Classification the Syrian textile heritage - 3

Damask - Damask Fabric

ClassicCollectionofDamaskFabric
Afabricwoventoachieveatoneontoneeffect.Patterns

areoftenfloral.Itislighterweightthanbrocade.
.SometimesreferredtoasJacquard

Damask Fabric
ExclusivePatternsSuitableforUpholsteryandDrapery

withavintageappealIncludesHoneybee,Dragonfly,
.Hinsdale,Harrowgate&More

Damask Prints - Modern Damask Print Fabric -

Contemporary Damask Print Fabric
AnewtakeonClassicDamaskfabrics.Thesemodern
damaskprintsarethesamedesignyoulovebutare
.availableinavarietyofcolorsandfabrictypes
9
 4 - Methods of producing A Damask fabrics

4-1 - The traditional method for the manufacture of A Damask fabrics:

Traditionalfabricsareproducedcurrentlyonhandloomsandisasoldandlow-
productivity,It'smaintainedforthepurposesoftourismandarestationedin
DamascusasaProfessionalmarket,SilkmarketandAzemehPalaceMuseum
Figure1.[26,27].

Stagesofthemanufacturingfromnaturalsilk:Kababp(winder)toEl-Fattal
(twister),andMosadi(wrapper)anddyer,Almozaiki,Mulki(drawingin),
Weaveranddakkak(dropper)andthenturnthefabrictothepiston.

10
4-1 - The traditional method for the manufacture
of A Damask fabrics

From Damascus city syria Figure 1 hand loom

11
The mechanical method for the manufacture of A Damask - 2 4

Figure 2 shuttle less weaving

machine (Ruti) 12
 4-3 The electronically method for the manufacture of A
Damask

:The electronically method for the manufacture of A Damask - 4-3

NewDamaskaremadeof100%cottonyarnonelectronicallyjacquardweaving
machines,usedinupholsteryandcurtains,mattresscoversandbedspreads.

This development has allowed to move the 30 000 hooks and speed of 700
rpm[6,7,8,9,10,12,13,14,23,].

The manufacturers of jacquard machines are : Grosse and Schleicher

(Germany),Bonas(England)andStaubli(France).Stagesoftechnologyforthe
manufactureofDamaskofcottonyarn:warping-drawin-Weaving.

13
 5- Case Study

Case Study- 5

5-1 - Introduction: The study was conducted in a public company

(General Company for Spinning and Weaving Company Damascus),
which produces cotton yarn & fabrics, dyed, mercerized and printed.
It contains factories for the spinning and weaving, dyeing.

5-2 - Stages of technology for the manufacture Damask

fabrics of cotton yarn
Figure 3 Outline of processes for the production of a Damask fabrics
on the modern weaving machinery .
Figure 4 Outline of the indirect warping machine BENNINGER.

-Weaving Machine: Rapier Weaving Machine G6200 SULZER TEXTIL

equipped with electronic Jacquard machines GROSSE EJP-2 with 5376
hooks.

14
 Figure 3 - technological stapes for the manufacture
of Damask fabrics of cotton yarn
Yarns reception and testing

Weft yarns Warp yarns preparation

preparation ,single ,doubled ( dyed &
( dyed & white) white)

Drawing-in,reeding,knotting Sectional
warping
Weaving

Fabric quality control

Damask fabrics Damaskfabricsstorage

packaging &customerdelivering
Figure 3 - technological stapes for the
manufacture 15
 indirect warping
machine BENNINGER

Figure 4 A diagram of a indirect warping

machine BENNINGER 16
 5-3 - Steps of design and manufacturing of A
Damask
The design Fabric
section aided
consists of the by computer
following devices:computer
scanner,
computer and keyboard, graphic table unite and the printer. German
software[ 10,20 ] :
(GROSSE PROFETIONAL JACQUARD DESIGNE SYSTEM (JAC-
ARTIST PRO)).
Table 2 consists steps of design and manufacture of computer-
:assisted Damask
Table 2 the following steps for the implementation of
computer-aided design No Name of the process
Name of the process No
. .

ElectronicReduction 7 InputDesign 1
Designfinishing 8 Cropping 2
Weaveeditor 9 Resizing 3
Harnesspreparation 10 ColorReduce 4
Weaving 11 Redrawing 5
SlowReduction 6
17
 5-4- laboratory
:laboratory equipment - 5-4 equipment
count of yarn -SUPERBA to check sliver and yarns, Tex Techno
Statimat Me: to examine the tensile strength of yarn and
.fabrics[3,4,16, 20,22.]

5-5- Raw materials used for weaving Damask fabrics:

Using single-threaded or doubling colored. The table 3 shows
Results
Table 3ofshows
tests: Results
of tests
Twist tension elongation CV Length
using (t/m) (yarn/cN) (E) (%) (%) Cutter (Km)
Yarn count of Dyed
No
(Ne) Threa Dyed Dye Dye
raw raw raw raw Dyed
d d d

1 2.5 weft 281 1980 1945 6.03 5.63 4.80 3.84 9.17 8.77
2 8.5/1O.E weft 550 984.97 914.95 6.64 7.52 6.58 5.11 14.54 13.81
24/2 639
3 warp 794.70 780.08 6.34 5.36 4.59 5.54 16.25 16.25
carded
warp 650
4 30/2carded 703.66 555.48 5.50 6.39 5.06 4.65 15.76 14.49
:Types of Damask Fabrics which were studded - 5-6
:Types of Damask Fabrics which were studded - 5-6

Newly Damask are of cotton or synthetic yarn, silk, wool , used in

modern varieties of clothing , apparel ,upholstery and curtains,
mattress covers and bedspreads.
Analysis was conducted and a study of A Damask fabrics produced in
the company of the Spinning and Weaving was to extract data on the
linear density for Yarns - warp and weft densities - weave - weight
per square and longitudinal meter, Cloth width - uses of each type -
the number of colors.

Tables (from 4 to 6) consists the physical and mechanical properties

of Damask fabrics which have been studied and laboratory tested.

19
 Table 4 The physical and mechanical properties of
Damask fabrics
No. Testing item name Testing result
Damask fabric 705-A Damask fabric 705- B

1 Damask fabric sample

2 Fabric width (cm) 182 182

3 Selvedgetype&weds(cm) Cut-Selvedge1cm Cut-Selvedge1cm
4 Squiremeterweight(gr/m2) 254 257
5 linermeterweight(gr/m) 462.28 467.74
6 Repeatdimension(cm) 8.5 x 9.4 16.8x15.8
7 Warpdensity(yarn/cm) 36 35
8 Weftdensity(yarn/cm) 15 15
9 Weaveindecorativesection Twill1/4 twill1/2 & 2/8
10 Weaveingroundsection Twill1/3 Satin2/5
11 Numberofcolor 2 2
12 Type&countofwarp(Ne) 29.84/2100%cotton 29.46/2100%cotton
13 twistdirectionofwarp -Z -Z
8.5-100%cotton
14 Type&countofweft(Ne) 8.5-100%cotton

15 resistancetotensionindirectionofthewarp(N) 951.01 885.90

16 resistancetotensionindirectionoftheweft(N) 661.63 627.80
17 Elongationinwarpdirection(%) 11.9 12.33
18 Elongationinweftdirection) (% 12.79 11.42
19 twistdirectionofwarp Z Z
20 Weavingmachine SulzereG6200 SulzereG6200
21 Weavingmachineweds(cm) 220 220 20
23 Weavingmachine(rpm) 400 400
Table 5 physical and mechanical properties of
Damask fabrics
No. Testing item name Testing results
Damask fabric (705-C ( Damask fabric ) 705-D)

1 Damask fabric sample

2 Fabric width (cm) 182 182

3 Selvedgetype&weds(cm) 1Cut-Selvedge 1Cut-Selvedge
4 Squiremeterweight(gr/m2) 262 254
5 linermeterweight(gr/m) 467.84 462.28
6 Repeatdimension(cm) 27.5X15.8 10.8X20.4
7 Warpdensity(yarn/cm) 34 38
8 Weftdensity(yarn/cm) 18 16
8 Weaveindecorativesection WeftRips1/4 Twil5/1&1/4
10 Weaveingroundsection Satan5/2 Satan5/2
11 Numberofcolor 2 2
12 Type&countofwarp(Ne) 30/2 100%cotton 30/2 100%cotton
13 twistdirectionofwarp(T/M -Z -Z
14 Type&countofweft(Ne) 8.5 - 100%cotton 8.5 - 100%cotton
 Table 6 physical and mechanical properties of
Damask fabrics
No. Testing item name Testing results
Damask fabric 710-A ( Damask fabric710-B

1 Damask fabric sample

2 Fabricwidth(cm) 136 136

3 Selvedgetype&weds(cm) 1Cut-Selvedge 1Cut-Selvedge
4 Squiremeterweight(gr/m2) 239 239
5 linermeterweight(gr/m) 326 325.04
6 Repeatdimension(cm) 7.9X12.4 10.8X20.4
7 Warpdensity(yarn/cm) 34 34
8 Weftdensity(yarn/cm) 13 18
9 Weaveindecorativesection Satin5/2 Satin5/2
10 Weaveingroundsection twill1/2 twill6/2
11 Numberofcolor 2 2
12 Weavingmachine RUTI-Automatic RUTIAutomatic
13 Weavingmachine(rpm) 120 120
22
5-7 The new and modern types of Damask fabrics

ItwasdesignedandproducedtwonewtypesofDamaskfabricsaccording
tomarketneeds.byGROSSE(CAD/CAM)SystemGermancompany,

Itwasconductedthetestsofthephysicalandmechanicalcharacteristicsof
Damask(1181)product,andDamask(2)bymodernlaboratorydevices.

Table(7)showstheresultsofastudyofthephysical&mechanicalproperties
ofthemodernDamaskfabrics.
Table 7 physical and mechanical properties of the new
:improved Damask fabrics
No. Testing item name Testing results
Damask fabric 1181 Damask fabric 2

1 Damask fabric samples

2 Fabric weds (cm) 182 182

3 Selvedgetype&weds(cm) 1Cut-Selvedge 1Cut-Selvedge
4 Squiremeterweight(gr/m2) 414 239
5 linermeterweight(gr/m) 753.48 325.04
6 Repeatdimension(cm) 30X41.5 28.5X25
7 Warpdensity(yarn/cm) 33 66
8 Weftdensity(yarn/cm) 22 15
9 Weaveindecorativesection 4Damascusdesigns Traditionaldesigns
10 Weaveingroundsection Traditionaldesigns Traditionaldesigns
11 Numberofcolor 2 2
) N d (36.73 + 35.5
12 Type&countofwarp(Ne) 20.73/2Ne100%cotton
+33.43100% shanel
13 directionofwarp -Z -Z
2.78 +17.07 +13.51
14 Type&countofweft(Ne) 5.56+2.71+2.36shanel
100%cotton
15 resistancetotensioninwarpdirection(N) 1005.94 1011.91

16 resistancetotensioninweftdirection(N) 1216.34 432.25

17 Elongationinwarpdirection(%) 17.65 11.08
18 Elongationinweftdirection(%) 13.66 11.27
24
 5-8 Discussion the results of tests

TheResultsoftestsoftensionresistanceindirectionofwarpandweftforthe
varietyDamask(1181)andDamask(2),weredocumentedandanalysed.

We have established detailed reports of the analysis and testing results of

physical and mechanical properties of Damask in the Department of jacquard
fabric , and executive instructions relating to its production, and tension
strengthandelongationdiagramsforproducedfabrics,wereidentifiedasthe
valuesofthetermsofthespecifications.

Observation: we prepared an attachment contains resistance to tension

diagramsindirectionofweft&warpforallsamples

25
 5-8 Discussion the results of tests

1-ThetestresultsofthephysicalandmechanicalcharacteristicsofADamask
Fabrics,tables(from4to7),andtheresultsoftestsofresistancetotensionin
directionofweft&warpofallfabricsproducedmeetthequalityrequirementsof
both functional and aesthetic, to increase the demand for modern products in
market,absenceofcomplaintsbycustomers.

2 -The physical & mechanical properties of yarns affect on Damask fabrics ,

table(3)showdisparitybetweenvaluesoftheassumedspecificationandreal
values,whichaffectthephysicalandmechanicalproperties,itisnecessaryto
providegoodyarnsforindustry.

3 - Appears from the table 7 the high value of the resistance to tension in
directionofwarpofthenewvarietiesandincreasetheweightpersquaremeter
of the Damask (1181) and Damask (2) compared with the value of the
resistancetotensionindirectionofwarpoftheitems(705-710)inthetables
(4-6), due to the use of thick weft yarn in 1181 and a synthetic yarn in the
Damask(2)whichgivesgoodfeatures.
26
 6 - Suggestions and Conclusions

1-Ithasbeendefinedanddeterminedthecharacterizationandclassificationof
Damaskfabricsandthephysicalmechanicalspecification,anditindicatethe
need to update the design of Damask to meet the requirements of the tourist
industry, which is reflected in the national income , and economic and social
development.

2 - The study showed that Damask fabrics still enjoys a worldwide reputation
forwell-builtthroughalonghistorybackforseveralcenturiesisstillrequiredin
theinternationalmarketandreflectstheSyrianheritageandthenobilityofthe
textileSyrianindustrywherehistorycomefromdeeproad,forthisreasonitis
recommendedtherevivaloftheindustryandmaintain.

27
 6 - Suggestions and Conclusions

3-TheproductionofnewDamaskfabricswithnewdrawingsandspecifications
fulfilstherequirementsoffashionleadstoquality &productivityimprovement,
andincreasetheproductsaddedvalue,asthesellingpriceofnewproducts
increasesto60%.
4-Thedevelopmentofscientificmethodologytostudy,analyzeanddiagnose
theproblemsofthetextileindustry,throughtheresearchmodel,whichbenefit
fromitthetextilecompaniesandthescientificinstitutes.

28
 6 - Suggestions and Conclusions

5-Theinformationcontainedintheresearchcontributetoidentifytheproblems
of the state and society and to find solutions and increase the stock of
knowledgeandkeeppacewithmarketrequirementsanddevelopproductlines.

6 - The results, reports, laboratory analysis diagrams , which has been

documentedandsaved,constitutesascientificbasefordevelopingtheSyrian
Standard, which improve the prestige of Damask fabrics in the international
market.

29
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31
Fig. 5 Jacquard weaving factory, Damascus

Fig. 5 Jacquard weaving factory, Damascus

32
 THANK YOU

Dr.Eng.TaherRajabKaddar
AssociateProfessor
DepartmentofTextileandSpinningEngineering
FacultyofChemicalandPetroleumEngineering
AL-BaathUniversity-Syria
E- mail: dr.t-kadd@mail.sy Cell : 00963 933 517314