THE

CHEMISTRY
OF
COSMETICS
 ESSENTIALS
Cosmetics are products designed to cleanse, protect and
change the appearance of external parts of our bodies.
The key ingredients present in most cosmetics include
water, emulsifiers, preservatives, thickeners,
moisturizers, colors and fragrances.
Ingredients can be naturally occurring or artificial, but
any potential impact on our health depends mainly on
the chemical compounds they are made of.
The doses of potentially dangerous chemicals found in
cosmetics are considered too small to pose a risk to
human health.
In most countries, cosmetics and their ingredients are
highly regulated by several government agencies.
 COSMETIC CHEMICALS
INTERACTIVE
AFTER SHAVE GEL EYE SHADOW LIPSTICK FOUNDATION DEODORANT MOISTURIZER

19 16 20 27 13 16 40
NAIL POLISH SHAMPOO PERFUME SUNSCREEN BLUSH MASCARA TONER

22 32 50 23 22 31 22
SHAVE
COLOGNE POWDER BODY WASH HAIRSPRAY CLEANSER EYELINER
CREAM

19 22 13 20 21 16 18
 What is a cosmetic?
a cosmetic is defined under theIndustrial Chemical
(Notification and Assessment) Act 1989as a substance
or preparation intended for placement in contact with
any external part of the human body' (this includes the
mouth and teeth). We use cosmetics to cleanse,
perfume, protect and change the appearance of our
bodies or to alter its odours. In contrast, products that
claim to modify a bodily process or prevent, diagnose,
cure or alleviate any disease, ailment or defect are
called therapeutics. This distinction means that
shampoos and deodorants are placed in the cosmetics
category, whilst anti-dandruff shampoos and
antiperspirants are considered to be therapeutics.
 INGREDIENT LABELLING
Like the food industry, the cosmetics industry is subject to mandatory
labelling requirements by Australian government regulations. Product
ingredients must be listed on the packaging, on the product itself, or shown in
some other way that allows the consumer to be informed. As with food labels,
ingredients are listed in descending order by mass or volume. The purpose of
this mandatory labelling is to allow consumers to identify ingredients they
might be allergic to, and to compare the ingredients in products claiming to
have similar benefits.
Products are classified as therapeutic goods rather than cosmetics when they
claim to treat an ailment or modify a bodily process. Therapeutic goods are
subject to different labelling requirements. Unlike cosmetics, they are required
to show only theiractive ingredientsand any ingredients known to have the
potential to cause adverse affects in some people. Antiperspirants and anti-
dandruff shampoos fall into this category. Cosmetic products are not required
to demonstrate their effects scientifically in the same way that therapeutic
products are. Their claimed effects are usually couched in cautious language
such as may reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. So consumers
should be aware that many of the claims made for cosmetic products have
not been scientifically proven to be true.
 What do cosmetics contain?
here are thousands of different cosmetic products on the market, all
with differing combinations of ingredients. In the United States alone
there are approximately 12,500 unique chemical ingredients approved
for use in the manufacture of personal care products.
A typical product will contain anything from 1550 ingredients.
Considering
the average woman uses between 9 and 15 personal care products per
day
, researchers have estimated that, when combined with the addition of
perfumes,
women place around 515 individual chemicals on their skin each day
through cosmetic use.
But what exactly are we putting on our skin? What do those long names
on the ingredient list mean and what do they do? While the formula of
each product differs slightly, most cosmetics contain a combination of
at least some of the following core ingredients: water, emulsifier,
preservative, thickener, emollient, colour, fragrance and pH stabilisers.
 Water
If your product comes in a bottle, chances are the first
ingredient on the list is going to be water. Thats right,
good old H2O. Water forms the basis of almost every
type of cosmetic product, including creams, lotions,
makeup, deodorants, shampoos and conditioners.
Water plays an important part in the process, often
acting as a solvent to dissolve other ingredients and
forming emulsions for consistency.
Water used in the formulation of cosmetics is not your
everyday, regular tap water. It must be ultra-pure
that is, free from microbes, toxins and other
pollutants. For this reason your label may refer to it as
distilled water, purified water or just aqua.
 Emulsifiers
The term emulsifiers refers to any ingredient that
helps to keep unlike substances (such as oil and
water) from separating. Many cosmetic products are
based onemulsionssmall droplets of oil dispersed
in water or small droplets of water dispersed in oil.
Since oil and water don't mix no matter how much
you shake, blend or stir, emulsifiers are added to
change the surface tension between the water and
the oil, producing a homogeneous and well-mixed
product with an even texture. Examples of
emulsifiers used in cosmetics include polysorbates,
laureth-4, and potassium cetyl sulfate.
 Preservatives
Preservatives are important ingredients. They are added to cosmetics
to extend their shelf life and prevent the growth of microorganisms
such as bacteria and fungi, which can spoil the product and possibly
harm the user. Since most microbes live in water, the preservatives
used need to be water-soluble, and this helps to determine which
ones are used. Preservatives used in cosmetics can be natural or
synthetic (man-made), and perform differently depending on the
formulation of the product. Some will require low levels of around
0.01%, while other will require levels as high as 5%.
Some of the more popular preservatives includeparabens,
benzyl alcohol, salicylic acid, formaldehyde andtetrasodiumEDTA
(ethylenediaminetetra-acetic acid).
Consumers who purchase preservative-free products should be
aware of their shorter shelf life and be conscious of any changes to
the look, feel or odour of the product that may indicate it has gone
off.
 Thickeners
Thickening agents work to give products an appealing consistency. They can
come from four different chemical families:
Lipid thickenersare usually solid at room temperature but can be liquefied and
added to cosmetic emulsions. They work by imparting their natural thickness
to the formula. Examples include cetyl alcohol, stearic acid and carnauba wax.
Naturally derived thickenerscome, as the name suggests, from nature. They
are polymers that absorb water, causing them to swell up and increase the
viscosity of a product. Examples include hydroxyethyl cellulose, guar gum,
xanthan gum and gelatin. Cosmetics with a consistency that is too thick can be
diluted with solvents such as water or alcohol.
Mineral thickenersare also natural, and as with the naturally derived
thickeners mentioned above, they absorb water and oils to increase viscosity,
but give a different result to the final emulsion than the gums. Popular mineral
thickeners include magnesium aluminium silicate, silica and bentonite.
The final group are thesynthetic thickeners. They are often used in lotion and
cream products. The most common synthetic thickener is carbomer, an acrylic
acid polymer that is water-swellable and can be used to form clear gels. Other
examples include cetyl palmitate, and ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate.
 Emollient

Emollients soften the skin by

preventing water loss. They are used in
a wide range of lipsticks, lotions and
cosmetics. A number of different
natural and synthetic chemicals work
as emollients, including beeswax, olive
oil, coconut oil and lanolin, as well as
petrolatum (petroleum jelly), mineral
oil, glycerine, zinc oxide, butyl stearate
and diglycol laurate.
 Colouring agents/pigments
Ruby lips, smoky eyes and rosy cheeks; it is the purpose of many cosmetics to accentuate
or alter a persons natural colouring. A huge range of substances are used to provide the
rainbow of appealing colours you find in the makeup stand. Mineral ingredients can
include iron oxide, mica flakes, manganese, chromium oxide and coal tar. Natural colours
can come from plants, such as beet powder, or from animals, like the cochineal insect.
The latter is often used in red lipsticks and referred to on your ingredient list as carmine,
cochineal extract or natural red 4.
Pigments can be split into two main categories: organic, which are carbon-based
molecules (i.e. organic in the chemistry context, not to be confused with the use of the
word to promote natural or non-synthetic or chemical-free products) and inorganic
which are generally metal oxides (metal + oxygen and often some other elements too).
Inorganic should not be confused with synthetic or unnatural as most of the inorganic
metal oxide pigments do occur naturally as mineral compounds.
The two most common organic pigments are lakes and toners. The lake pigments are
made by combining a dye colour with an insoluble substance like alumina hydrate. This
causes the dye to become insoluble in water, making it suitable for cosmetics where
water-resistant or waterproof properties are desired.
A toner pigment is an organic pigment that has not been combined with any other
substance.
The inorganic metal oxide pigments are usually duller than the organic pigments, but are
more resistant to heat and light, providing a longer-lasting colour.
 PIGMENTS AND THEIR SOU
RCES
Iron oxide(FeO) gives colours in yellows, reds and black. Blending different types of iron
oxide can give a range of browns and natural skin colours.
Chromium oxideprovides green pigments. It can be safely used in cosmetics that are
applied externally, but is not permitted for use in lip products, where there is the potential
for it to be ingested.
Ultramarine, Na8-10Al6Si6O24S2-4, is naturally derived from the mineral lapis lazuli and gives
blue colours. It is an oxide of sodium, aluminium and silicon, and also contains sulphur which
is what provides the vivid blue tone. Changes in thevalence stateof the sulphur cause pink
or purple shades of the pigment. It is also not permitted for use in lip products.
Ammonium manganese (III) pyrophosphateH 4NMnO7P2is an oxide of manganese which
provides a deep purple colour.
Iron blue, orPrussian blueis made by oxidising salts of iron cyanide (C 18Fe7N18) and was one
of the first synthetically-produced pigments. It gives a deep blue colour and was originally
developed as an alternative to the more expensive lapis lazuli ultramarine. It is not
permitted for use in lip products.
Titanium oxide(TiO2) There are two forms of this compound used in cosmetics, anatase and
rutile. These have the same chemical formula but a slightly different crystal structure. They
are both used to provide a white pigment. The structure of rutile means that it has a
higherrefractive indexwhich means that it gives a particularly pearly shine.
Zinc oxide(ZnO) is also used to create white pigments. Additionally, zinc oxide is used to
provide sun protection as it reflects and scatters UV radiation.
 Glimmer and shine
Shimmering effects can be created via a range of materials. Some of the
most common ones are mica and bismuth oxychloride.
Cosmetic mica typically comes from muscovite (KAl 2(AlSi3O10)(F,OH)2) also
known as white mica. It naturally forms in flaky sheets and these are
crushed up into fine powders. The tiny particles in the powders refract
(bend) light, which creates the shimmering effect common in many
cosmetics. Mica coated with titanium dioxide gives a whitish appearance
when looked at straight on, but then produces a range of iridescent colours
when viewed from an angle.
Bismuth oxychloride (BiClO) is used to create a silver grey pearly effect. This
compound occurs naturally in the rare mineral bismoclite, but is usually
produced synthetically and so is also known as synthetic pearl.
The size of the particles used to create pearly and shimmering looks affect
the degree of glimmer the product has. The smaller the particle size (1560
microns, where one micron is one millionth of a meter), the less lustrous the
powder will be, and more coverage it gives. Larger particle sizes, up to 500
microns, give a more glittery lustre and are more transparent.
 Fragrances
No matter how effective a cosmetic may be, no one will want to use it if it smells
unpleasant. Consumer research indicates that smell is one of the key factors in a
consumers decision to purchase and/or use a product.
Chemicals, both natural and synthetic, are added to cosmetics to provide an
appealing fragrance. Even unscented products may contain masking fragrances to
mask the smell of other chemicals.
The term fragrance is often a generic term used by manufacturers. A single listing of
fragrance on your products ingredient list could represent dozens or even hundreds
of unlisted chemical compounds which were used to create the final individual
fragrance.
Manufacturers do not have to list these individual ingredients as fragrance is
considered to be atrade secret.
There are over 3,000 chemicals used to formulate the huge range of fragrances used
in consumer products worldwide. Acomprehensive listhas been published by the
fragrance industry. All the ingredients on this list have passed the International
Fragrance Association (IFRA) safety standards for use in commercial products.
However, without knowing which individual ingredients went in to making up the
fragrance of a product, consumers can find it difficult to make informed choices.If
consumers are concerned they should look for fragrance free products and buy from
companies that label their products more comprehensively.
 COMMON COSMETICS AND T
HEIR
INGREDIENTS
LIPSTICKSLipsticksare generally made by combining a water-insoluble dye with wax and a non-
volatile oil. The wax provides a stable base for the lipstick and the oil alters the texture and makes
it easy to apply, while providing a shiny finish. Common waxes include beeswax,carnauba waxand
candelilla wax, while popular oils include castor, olive and mineral oils, cocoa butter, lanolin, and
petrolatum. Lip glosses, with their higher shine, contain more oils and less wax.
This results in a substance that is stiff, but will spread easily on your lips. Because its water-
insoluble, the lipstick wont be dissolved by your saliva or by the drink youre sipping.
MASCARA
Mascara is one of the most popular cosmetic products on the market. The main ingredients of
mascara are pigment, such as carbon or iron oxide to create the colour, polymer to create a film
that coats the lashes, preservatives to extend the life of the product, and a thickening agent such
as wax or oil.
Mascara can come in a water-free formula, which makes it waterproof and smudge proof, but more
difficult to remove. Oil-water emulsion formulas are also used, which can smudge and run more
readily, but are easier to wash off.
EYE SHADOW
The basic ingredient of eye shadow is base filler or diluent, like mica, talc or sometimes kaolin clay.
To make the eye shadow stick to your skin, binders such as magnesium or zinc compounds are
added. Silica, nylon, dimethicone, boron nitride or bismuth oxychloride can be included to make the
eye shadow easier to apply to the eyelids. Preservatives, such as glycol or tocopherol are also
added. Then, of course, there is the pigment eye shadow comes in a huge variety of colours.
 FOUNDATION
Foundation can come as a loose powder, pressed powder or liquid. Whichever
type you use it will generally contain a moisturiser, a colourant and a filler, which
dilutes the pigment and also is supposed to fill in any fine lines or wrinkles. Various
chemicals such as iron oxide, and titanium dioxide are used as pigments.
Talc, a soft mineral made from magnesium, silicon and oxygen, is a commonly
used filler. Bismuth oxychloride is another common ingredient in foundation, used
for the shimmering glow it gives to the wearer. Along with talc, its often found in
mineral makeups which are generally marketed as natural and more suitable for
sensitive skin, but bismuth oxychloride is not actually a naturally occurring form of
bismuth. Its a by-product of the lead smelting process, and has been found to be
a skin irritant for some people. Talc can also cause skin irritation, and there has
been some concern that it is also a carcinogen. This is however, regarded as a
myth albeit one with a foundation (pardon the pun) in truth; prior to the regulation
of talcum powder in 1973, talc could contain asbestos which might have
contributed to an increased cancer risk.
Some doctors advise checking to see if diazolidinyl urea or imidazolidinyl urea has
been used as a preservative in foundations, as this can give off formaldehyde,
which can irritate the skin of some people.
 BLUSH
The typical Western ideal of beauty includes glowing, rosy cheeks. In the Victorian era (the mid and late 1800s)
make-up was frowned upon and so women resorted to biting their lips and pinching their cheeks to get a bit of
colour.
These days, rouge, or blush is commonplace, and can come in many different formspowder, gel, cream or liquid. A
typical blush will contain a filler such as talc or stearic acid, and of course different pigments to provide the rosy
complexion. Other concealing pigments can also be added to the mix to block the natural skin colour so the blush
will appear stronger. These additives can include mica, zinc oxide or titanium oxide.
FAKE TANS
Fake tanschange colour on contact with skin. The active ingredient in most fake tans is dihydroxyacetone, a
colourless compound that darkens when it reacts with the amino acids in the top layer of skin. The colour change is
permanent, but because skin cells are constantly being shed the tan is usually gone after about a week. It is
important to note that fake tans do not provide any sun protection, so individuals will still have to apply sun cream.
SHAMPOOS AND SOAPS
Shampoos and soaps clean by the use ofsurfactants(surfaceactiveagents). Surfactant molecules have both fat
soluble (lipophilic) and water-soluble (hydrophilic) parts. The lipophilic part of the molecule sticks to oil and dirt, and
the hydrophilic part allows water to then carry away the otherwise water-insoluble grime. Washing-up detergents
work in the same way, although it isnt generally advisable to wash your hair with dishwashing liquid - they are
formulated to remove thick grease from plates, not to gently clean your hair.
Common surfactants come from a class of chemicals called straight-chain alkyl benzene sulphonates. Common
types that you may see in your shampoos ingredient list are ammonium lauryl sulphate or sodium lauryl sulphate.
Tetrasodium EDTA is a chemical that is added to strip away metals like calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) found in
water which can affect the effectiveness of the surfactants.
Other chemicals, called cocamides are added to make the foamy lather we expect from our shampoo. Cocamides
can also act as emulsifiers. Cocamidopropyl betaine is added to get the thickness of the shampoo right. It is also an
anti-static agent, and a humectant, which means it helps the hair to retain moisture.
 http://www.nova.org.au/people-
medicine/chemistry-cosmetics