TEXTILES

FIBER TO YARN

TEXTILES
FIBER
YARN
FABRIC
FIBERS: STAPLE FIBERS
In Textiles a generic term for any on of the various types of matter that form
the basic elements of a textile and I.e. characterized by having a length at
least 100 times of its diameter of thickness.
FILAMENT FIBER:
filament is a very long fiber. The length of filaments may range from a few
100 mtrs .ex-silk to several kmts /manmade fibers.

GENERAL FLOWCHART OF
TEXTILE PRODUCTS
FIBER PRODUCER

YARN MILL

PRODUCT

TEXTILE MILL

MANUFACTURER

CONSUMER

WHOLE SALE/JOBBER

RETAILER

FILAMENT & STAPLE FIBRES

FILAMENT FIBRES

NATURAL FIBRES
NATURAL FIBRES

VEGETABLE
ANIMAL
MINERAL
(cellulose base)
(protein)

TYPE

Natural fibers

NAME OF FIBER

SOURCE

COMPOSITION

VEGETABLE

COTTON
KAPOK

SEED

COTTON BALL
KAPOK TREE

CELLULOSE
BASE

HEMP

BAST FIBERS

FLAX(LINEN)
JUTE
MESHTA(KENAF)
ABACA(MANILA)
CANTALAISTLE,
MAGUEY,HENEQUEN,
PINE & SISAL.

HEMP OR ABACA
STALK
RHEA OR CHINA
GRASS
FLAX STALK
JUTE STALK

LEAF FIBERS

PINEAPPLE
LEAF,AGAVE LEAF

COIR

FRUIT FIBER

COCONUT BASK

RAMIE

NATURAL FIBERS
TYPE

NAME OF FIBER

ANIMAL
(PROTEIN)

WOOL
HAIR
SILK

MINERAL

ASBESTOS

SOURCE/COMPOSITION
SHEEP
HAIR BEARING ANIMALS
SILK WORMS
(SILK COCOONS)
VARIETIES OF
ROCK(SILICATE OF
MAGNESIUM & CALCIUM)

MAN MADE FIBERS

1.Cellulosic (natural) polymers.
2.Non-cellulosic (synthetic) polymers.
3.Protein.
4.Rubber.
5.Metallic.
6.Mineral.

TYPE
NON
CELLULOSIC
(SYNTHETIC)
POLYMERS

MAN MADE FIBERS

NAME OF FIBER
NYLON
ARAMID
POLYESTER
ACRYLIC
MODACRYLIC
SPANDEX
OLEFIN
VINYON
SARAN
NOVOLOID
POLYCARBONATE

SOURCE/COMPOSITION
ALIPHATIC POLYAMIDE
AROMATIC POLYAMIDE
DIHYDRIC ALCOHOL
&TEREPHTHALIC ACID
ACRYLONITRILE (atleast 85%)
ACRYLONITRILE (35-85%)
POLYURETHANE (atleast 85%)
ETHLENE OR PROPYLENE
VINYL CHLORIDE (atleast
85%)
VINYLIDENE CHLORIDE
(atleast 80%)
PHENOL BASED NOVALAC
CARBONIC ACID (polyester
derivatives)

MAN MADE FIBERS

TYPE
NON
CELLULOSIC
(SYNTHETIC)
POLYMERS

NAME OF FIBER
POLYBENZIMIDAZOLE
ALGINATE
FLUROCARBON
GRAFT
MATRIX
ANIDEX
LASTRILE
NITRILE
VINAL

SOURCE/COMPOSITION
TETRA MINO BIPHENYL &
DIPHENYL ISOPHTHALATE
CALCIUM ALGINATE
TETRAFLURO ETHYLENE
MOLECULAR GRAFT OF
POLYMERS
MIXTURE OF POLYMERS
MONOHYDRIC ALCOHOL
AND ACRYLIC ACID
ACRYLONITRILE (10-50%)
& A DIENE
VINYLIDENE DINITRILE
(atleast 85%)
VINYL ALCOHOL (atleast
50%)

NATURAL FIBERS
TYPE

NAME OF FIBER

SOURCE/COMPOSITION

Cellulosic
(natural)
polymers

Rayon
Acetate
triacetate

Cotton
Cotton
Cotton

protein

azlon

Corn,soyabean

rubber

rubber

Natural & synthetic rubber

metallic

metal

Aluminium,silver,gold,stainless
steel

mineral

Glass
Ceramic
graphite

Silica sand,
Limestone
Alumina, silica carbon

linters
linters
linters

or
or
or

wood
wood
wood

How man made fibers are formed

Man made fibers are made from special chemical solutions which
are forced through tiny holes, similar to water passing through
shower head.
The device we use to form the filament is called as spinneret. it
looks like a thimble with tiny holes on the top or flat surface
area.
The fine liquid streams of solution are then hardened into
continuous strands called filament fibers.
The no. of holes, their shape and size of their holes in the
spinneret vary with filament fiber and yarn desired.

TECHNIQUES TO PRODUCE FILAMENTS:

1.Dry spinning method: the chemical solution mixed with a solvent
is forced through the spinneret in warm air .the warm air helps
evaporate the solvent and the liquid stream then hardens .ExAcetate,modacrylic and vinylon fibers.
2.Wet spinning method :the solution is forced through the spinneret
and then into liquid solution in which the solution streams
hardens into continuous filaments.Ex.Acrlian, creslan, zefra.n
acrylic fibers, viscose rayon fibers

TECHNIQUES TO PRODUCE FILAMENTS

3.Melt spinning method: a solid material is melted thus forming the
solution ,which is then forced through the spinneret into cool air.
Here the filament hardens into continuous filament through the
cooling action.ex. Glass,nyon,polyester,saran and olefin fibers.
FIBER PROPERTIES:
1.Fiber morphology: is the study of size, shape and structure of
material or textile fiber.
2.Fiber tenacity: the tenacity or strength of a fiber is in general
directly related to the length of the polymers, degree of polymer
orientation and strength and types of inner polymer forces of
attraction formed between polymers.
3.Fiber shape: when viewed with naked eye all fibers look alike.
when viewed under a microscope these fibers have varying
configuration. the microscopic cross sectional shape of the fiber
and the surface construction determines the bulk ,texture, luster
and hand of the fiber.
4.Fiber surfaces: the surface of the fibers vary from
smooth,ruff,slightly grooved, deeply channeled or wrinkled. exwool-scaley,cotton smooth, rayon-serrated.

Fiber properties
5.Fiber longitudinal configuration: lengthwise fiber may vary as to their configuration, they
may be straight ,twisted, coiled or crimped .ex-cotton fibers-twisted, nylon-fairly straight.
FIBER PERFORMANCE PROPERTIES

Quality

Properties

Aesthetic

Properties relating to visual effects as well as

those perceived by
touch.flexibility,hand,lustre,pilling,resilience,spec
ific gravity,static electricity,thermoplasticity.
Properties relating to resistance to wear and
destructing in use, abrasion resistance, chemical
effects, environmental conditions and strength.
Properties relating to physical
comfort,absorbency,cover,elasticity,wicking.

Durability

Comfort
Safety

Properties relating to danger or risk of injury,

flammability.

Identification of fibers

Burning test.
Microscopic examination.
Micro solubility.
Dyeing and staining.
Density or specific gravity.
Refractive index and bire fringence.
Melting point and moisture regain.
Sophisticated instrumentation.
Gas chromatography.

SPINNING-YARN MAKING

1.blending:mixing of 2 or 3 types of material (sliver).

2.Trumpet passage: doubling and drafting to get
even and fine sliver.
3.re-combing:silver combing to remove short fibers
and impurities.

4.Roving/rubbing:drafting and twisting to make fine

and even rove.
5.Ring frame: drafting and twisting to form a single
yarn, wound on to a bobbin.
6.Steaming :heat setting of yarn to avoid snarling.
7.Auto winding: clearing of imperfections and
forming bigger package from number of ring
bobbins.
8.Assemble winding (doubling): winding of 2 strands
of single yarn parallel onto a cheese.
9.Twisting :winding the parallel wound yarns to form
single strand.
10.Singeing :removal of protruding fibers by running
yarn at high speed in the gas flame.
11.Re-winding :winding singed yarn onto a cone
from cheese.

Spinning-yarn making
BLENDING

CARDING

ROVING/RUBBING

RE-COMBING
STEAMING

RING FRAME
ASSEMBLY WINDING
(DOUBLING)

AUTO WINDING

TWISTING

STEAMING

RE-WINDING

SINGEING

YARN

MACHINES USED IN
SPINNING MILLS

FIBER MIXER

BLOW ROOM

CARDING MACHINE

DRAWING MACHINE

COMBER MACHINE

SIMPLEX

RING FRAME

CONE WINDING

YARNS
1.A group of fibers twisted together to form
a continuous strand.
2.All textile ,except for a few such as felt
and non woven fabrics are produced from
yarns.
3.The yarns are interlaced (woven)
,interloped (knitted) or combined in other
ways to form a textile fabric.
CLASSIFICATION OF YARNS
1.Spun yarn
2.Filament yarn

Classification of yarns
SPUN YARNS:
Are composed of relatively short length of fibers twisted or
spun to hold them together.
The short lengths of fibers (measured in inches) are called
staple fibers.
This staple is made into yarn by mechanical processes that
first make the fibers more or less parallel, then alternatively
pull and twist them.
High twist is necessary to press the fibers together to give
strength to the resulting yarn.
IDENTIFYING SPUN YARNS

When spun yarn is untwisted so that all fibers are parallel

and then slightly pulled ,then yarn simply comes apart
without breaking.
Spun yarn composed of longer fibers will be stronger ,more
uniform and more lustrous than similar spun yarns made
from shorter fibers.

Classification of yarns
When a filament is untwisted and pulled, the fibers
remain parallel and the yarn does not come apart
Filament yarns are composed of only manufactured
fiber or silk.
IDENTIFYING FILAMENT YARNS
When a filament yarn is untwisted and pulled ,the
fibers remain parallel and the yarn does not come
apart.
Filament yarns are composed of only manufactured fiber or
silk.
TYPES OF FILAMENT YARNS
1.monofilament:filament yarns may be composed of one
single filament.
2.multifilalent:filament yarns may be composed of many
filaments. most of the yarns are multifilament.

Uses of spun and filament yarns

Some fabrics have only spun yarns, some have only

filament yarns and others are made with a
combination of spun and filament yarn. each type of
yarn is best for certain uses.
Spun yarn may provide warmth, softness and
lightness of weight. ex-fabrics of blanket and sweater.
Filament yarn are better for item where smoothness
and luster desired. because the yarns are finer, more
uniform in diameter and lustrous.
Filament yarn fabrics are better for linings because
their smoothness makes it easier to slide into and out
of the garment.

Preparatory of yarns
Raw material

Primary doubling

Secondary doubling

Green/Ply yarn

Drying

spooling/winding

Primary twisting

Rewinding

Secondary Twisting

Package Form

Reeling/Rewinding

Hank/Cheese

Comparison of spun and filament yarn properties

Yarn uniformity :filament yarns are more uniform

in diameter than spun yarns.
Yarn smoothness and luster: filament yarns are
generally smoother and more lustrous than spun
yarns.
Yarn strength: filament yarns are stronger than
spun yarns of the same diameter and fiber type.

PREPARATION OF YARNS
Drying: the extraction of the moisture from the
thread(temp below 50c)
Winding: the process of winding the yarn into the
bobbin or reel is called winding.
Doubling: two or more threads wound on winding
bobbins are wound into one twisting bobbin.

YARN TWISTING
Yarns are made by twisting together parallel or
nearly parallel fibers.
TPI: the amount of twist in a yarn is designated as
the TPI or turns-per-inch of the yarn.
Spun yarn with relatively low twist (from 2 to 12
TPI)are frequently called soft twist.
Spun yarn with relatively high twist (from 20 to 30
TPI) are called hard twist yarns.
Filament yarns usually have very low twist(1/2 to 1
TPI).
TYPES OF TWISTS
Primary twist
Inter twist
Secondary twist
The degree of twist is applied according to the texture
and appearance of the fabric proposed to be woven.

CATEGORIES OF YARNS

Single
2.
Ply yarns
Ply yarn is defined as two or more single yarns
twisted together to form one new yarn.
Two ply yarns are two singles twisted together , three
ply are three singles twisted together ,and so
forth
Ex- 2ply,4ply,6ply,8ply,12ply,24 ply etc.
1.

ADVANTAGES OF PLY YARNS

The fiber cannot slip easily.

The yarns are stronger.

The yarn diameter is made more uniform.

There is a reduced tendency to pill.

SPECIAL TYPES OF YARNS

Textured yarns
Micro fiber yarns
Stretch yarns
Novelty yarns
High bulk yarns
Chenille yarns
Metallic yarns
TEXTURED YARNS
The filament yarns are modified before they are woven or
knitted. Since the modified yarn takes on an entirely
new surface or texture, they are called texture yarns.
TYPES OF TEXTURED YARNS
Stretch type: this type is made primarily from nylon and
used extensively in leotards, stretch skipants,stretch
hosiery and similar items. these yarns can be stretched
from 30 to 50% of their relaxed length.

Types of textured yarns

Bulk type: the most important property of these

yarns are that they are bulk with low stretch.
High bulk yarns
Are also called hi-bulk or turbo-bulk .they are acrylic
spun yarns which are especially processed to yield
lofty, bulk and soft yarns simulating light ,bulky
worsted.
Fabrics made of high bulk acrylic yarns feel soft and
luxurious and frequently use with the hand and
appearance of a high quality worsted.
They have the disadvantage of tending to pill easily.
Chenille yarns
Chenille yarns are yarns that have soft pile protruding
from their surface. their appearance resembles the
ordinary pipe cleaners used by smokers.

SPECIAL TYPES OF YARNS

Chenille yarns may be made from any fiber ,but most
commonly they are made of cotton ,wool, rayon or
nylon.
Chenille yarns are used in woven fabric to produce
soft pile-like effects on curtain and drapery
materials, bedspreads and other decorative fabrics.
Metallic yarns
This type of metallic fiber is also the metallic yarn.
they are flat and ribbon like rather than round or
elliptical in cross section like the other yarns.
Metallic yarns are mostly used for decorative rather
than functional purpose.
Set texture type
Textured yarns in this category undergo an additional
heat setting in the texturising process to set the
yarn and eliminate or sharply minimize the stretch.

TYPES OF YARNS

Micro fiber yarns

Manmade fibers such as polyester, nylon and acrylic in
diameters are even finer than silk. These special fine fibers
are called micro fibers and are also called as micro denier
fibers.

Stretch yarn
Yarns that have the capability of stretching are being used for
regular knitted and woven apparel to provide increased
comfort when sitting,bending,stooping or when engaged in
active sports or work activities.

Stretch fabrics are generally classified into

two categories
Power stretch :fabrics where holding power is required

as in foundation garments,swimwear,surgical support

garments or suspenders the yarns used for power stretch
fabrics have high elasticity and high recovery force.

TYPES OF YARNS

Comfort stretch
These fabrics are designed to yield with body
movement. These fabrics have very low recovery
force, the yarns from which they are made and the
fabrics themselves look the same as non-stretch
materials.
Novelty yarns
They are also called fancy yarns. they are a general
classification given to yarns that are not uniform in
thickness through out their length but have deliberate
irregularities on their surface. these irregularities may
be knots,bumps,curls or similar effects.
Fabric made from novelty yarns are not durable and are
especially susceptible to wear from abrasion or
rubbing.

COMPARISON OF STRETCH YARNS

Yarn type Stretch
fiber
component
Textured Nylon or
polyester
Yarns

Stretch
type

Recovery
power

comfort Low

Bare
elastic

spandex

power

Covered
elastic

Spandex
or rubber

power

Uses and features

Blouses,sportswear,str
etch
pants,hosiery,mens
hose. polyester has
tendency to pill.
moderate Lightweight
foundations,
swimwear,
athletic wear, gym
clothing, bike short
high
Heavy foundations,
elastic bandages,
athletic supporters.
rubber has higher
power and recovery
than spandex but poor
shelf life it begins to

COMPARISON OF STRETCH YARNS

Yarn
type

Stretch
fiber
compone
nt

Stretch Recover
type
y power

core
spun

spandex

comfor Very low Active sports wear,

t
stretch denim

cotton
Slack
merceriz
ed

Uses and features

comfor Very low Blouses,shirts,has

t
low stretch, poor
recovery and
tendency to lose
elasticity readily.

BLENDS AND MIXTURES

Blend yarn has 2 or more fibers thoroughly mixed

together. both spun and filament yarns may be blended
but spun blends are the type most widely used. the
blending is usually done to combine the disable
properties of different fibers.
Blend filament yarns are composed of 2 dissimilar
filaments co-existing within the same filament yarn. they
are produced from 2 different spinnerets then bought
together to make one yarn.
Ex-a shirt of 65% polyester ,35% cotton is comfortable
in hot humid weather than a 100% cotton fabric because
of the low moisture absorption of the polyester.
MIXTURES: is composed of 2 or more different type of
yarn in a fabric. combining filament spun yarns in the
same fabrics is an example of mixture.
A fabric with acetate warp and the rayon filling is
another example. fabric mixture are made to achieve
certain design and color effects as in cross dyeing or to
lower the cost of certain fabrics by combining cheaper
yarns with more costly once as in silk and cotton
combination.

YARN NUMBERING SYSTEM

Yarn numbering systems are used to express a

relationship between unit length and weight of the
yarn .
The relationship between unit length and weight also
reflects the diameter or the thickness of the yarn.
This is so because the yarn of low weight per unit
length would be finer than the yarn with a higher
weight per equal unit length.

TYPES OF NUMBERING SYSTEMS

The denier system:
Is used for all filament yarns. the weight of the 9000
mtrs (9kms) is called denier. very fine yarns of 10
denier are used in sheer hosiery.

Denier number is directly proportional to the

weight ,so this is direct measuring system.

TYPES OF NUMBERING SYSTEM

The yarn count systems:

Is used for all spun yarns. in this system the yarn number
is inversely proportionate to weight.
This system is indirect system.ex.cotton yarn used in sheer
voile fabrics may be as fine as 100 pounds, while thicker
yarns used in poplin fabrics may be 30 count.
Heavy cotton duck fabrics used for tarpaulins may be made
of 5 count yarns.
Tex system:

In the 1950s a new system to designate yarn size is known

as tex system.

It was intended to replace all the existing count and denier

system with a single system for designating all yarn sizes,
however the tex system has not been widely accepted and
is in limited use in the textile industries.

The tex system is direct number system in which higher tex

number correspond to increasing heavier (thicker) yarns.
the tex standard is 1000 mtrs/gm

CALCULATIONS OF THREAD SIZES

Denier =weight of fiber (g) x 9000 /length of the fiber
(m)
Grex =weight of fiber (g) x 10000 /length of fiber (m)
Tex =weight of fiber (g) x1000 /length of fiber (m)
CALCULATIONS OF THREAD SIZES
Nm :the length of unit weight of the fiber ,ie,1 nm in 1000 m
and the weight of it is 1000 gm.
Ne :in English counting method ,the length of the fiber is 840
yards, when the weight of the fiber is 1 pound (1lb),ex:if 1 lb
of fiber is 1680 yds in length it is called as 2 Ne.
1Nm = 1000 (g) x 767.8 / 453.6 x 1000(m) = 1.693 (Ne)
1 Ne =1(lb) x 1904 / 2.02 x 840 yards = 0.59 (Nm)

YARN COUNT CONVERTION TABLE

TEX

DENIER D TEX

COTTON
(Nec)

METRICS WORSTED

TEX

10

590.5/TE
X

1000/TEX

885.8/TEX

DENIER

.1111

1.1111

5315 /
DENIER

9000 /
DENIER

7972 /
DENIER

D TEX

.1

0.9

5905/DTE 10000 /
X
DTEX

8858/DTEX

COTTON
(Nec)

590.5
/NEC

5316
/NEC

5905 /
NEC

1.693

1.500

METRICS

1000
/
TEX

9000
/NM

10000
/NM

.5906

0.8859

WORSTED

590.5
/
NEC

7972 /

8858 /

0.6667

1.129

WORSTED

W0RSTE
D

SEWING THREADS
Sewing threads are special kinds of yarns. they are engineered
and designed to pass through a sewing machine rapidly to
form a stitch efficiently and to function while in sewn product
without breaking or becoming distorted for at least the useful
life of the product.
Fibers used for thread are cotton, nylon and polyester. Rayon is
used for thread intended primarily for embroidery or fancy
stitch work rather than for actual seaming to hold parts
together.

TYPES OF THREADS
1.Spun
2.Filament
3.Core spun type
THREAD FINISHES: thread finished with various finishes such
as mercerized,soft,glaze and bounded. in addition special
finishes include flame resistance and tear resistance.
THREAD SIZES: sizes (weight / unit length ) of thread are
marketed and expressed with their tex number designation.

IMPORTANT FACTORS IN THREAD SELECTION

Thread size :the size of the yarn is usually
determined by two methods called denier and count.
the denier is nothing but =weight of the fiber (gm) x
9000 /length of the fiber (mtrs)
Thread strength: the breaking strength of the seam
should be less than that of the fabric, which has
been sewn. many authorities agree that the seam
should be about 60% of the fabric strength. the
reason for this is to assure that if excessive stress is
placed on a seam ,the seam rather that the fabric
will break. Seams are easily repairable, fabric is not.
Garment cleaning :if the garment is to be washed in
hot water, then the thread should have excellent
resistance to color change from this medium. Also
the thread should posses little shrinkage from the
cleaning method.

FIBERS

PROCESS OF FIBER TO YARN

SPINNING

PREPARATORY

YARNS

SPINNING:
The object is as follows
To convert waste materials to singed / unsinged yarn
either in single or doubled form.
To convert slivers to singed / unsinged yarn either in
single or double form.
To produce the yarns either as 100 % or in blended form.
1.SLIVER MAKING
2.YARN MAKING
SLIVER MAKING
Stretching :opening of raw material.
Cutting :to cut the opened material lap for required
length.
Blending :mixing of two or three types of cut material.

SLIVER MAKING
Oiling :spraying anti static oil to reduce staticity and improve
workability.
Carding :removing impurities and forming slivers to
straightened fiber.
Trumpet passage :doubling and drafting to get even and fine
sliver.
Combing :removal of impartial and short fibers from carded
sliver.

SPINNING SLIVER MAKING

OPENING

STRETCHING, CUTTING

OILING

BLENDING

CARDING

SLIVER

DRAWING

COMBING

MACHINES USED IN
SPINNING MILLS

FIBER MIXER

BLOW ROOM

CARDING MACHINE

DRAWING MACHINE

COMBER MACHINE

SIMPLEX

RING FRAME

CONE WINDING

AUTO SPLICER IN CONE

WINDING