Troubleshooting of Cellulosic

Dyeing and an Introduction of

Dyeing Composite Materials
Containing Cellulosic Fibres

Contents

1. Introduction
2. Troubleshooting of Cellulosic Dyeing
3. Dyeing Composite Materials containing
Cellulosic Fibres

1. Introduction
Textile Industry Stream
Spinning
Weaving
Singening
Desizing
Scouring
Bleaching
Drying

Whitening

Printing

Drying

Dyeing

Finishing
Inspection
Sewing

Subsidiary Materials
(Button,Zipper and Others)

Packing

Box, Poly bag and

Put a Sticker

Transportaion
and Storage

Exposed to Various Atmospheric

Conditions

Sale

Display(using Hanger) and

Consumer Wearing

1. Introduction
Cotton Industry Stream

Dyeing & Finishing

Yarn Dyeing

Weaving
Woven
Finished Fabric

Fibre

Yarn

Textured Yarn
Knit

Spinning

Upstream

Apparel

Knitting

Sewing

Downstream

1. Introduction
Classification of dyes according
to the principal fibre classes

Cellulosic

Protein

Direct
Sulphur
Azoic
Vat
Reactive

Acid(including
metalcomplex)
Mordant
Reactive

Cellulose
acetates
Disperse

Nylon

Acrylic

Polyester

Disperse
Acid(including
metalcomplex)
Mordant

Basic
Acid

Disperse

2. Troubleshooting of Cellulosic Dyeing

A Cause of Defects

a problem caused by using unusual dye

staining in abnormal dyeing process
a problem caused by remaining acid or alkali
a problem caused by insufficient washing or soaping
a problem caused by careless management in process
a problem caused by misuse sewing yarn
yellowing state
a problem in a coated fabric
a problem caused by using unusual raw materials
a problem caused by zipper or button
a problem caused by performance evaluation, point of
view and another cause

2. Troubleshooting of Cellulosic Dyeing

an inherent characteristics in defect occurrence

An Inherent Characteristics

Typical Example

Depends on mixed several factors

Yellowing by poly bag

- using BHT type poly bag
- nitrogen oxide gas
- a cationic softening agent treated on fabric

In many cases, potential defects occur

defect in later Processes

Yellowing in Cotton/spandex Knit

- use a spinning oil in manufacturing spandex filament
- insufficient removal of spinning oil occur yellowing in final
finishing process

A substance related to defects is able to

mixed in a certain process

A fading dyed goods by the nitric oxide gas

- a fading is occurred by the contact with the atmosphere
polluted by nitric oxide gas

The temperature and humidity conditions

in any process impact on defects

Discoloration in dyed goods(mostly in cellulosic fabric)

by the metal button
- store in high temperature and humidity conditions

2. Troubleshooting of Cellulosic Dyeing

A Principal Process for Determining the Cause of Defects

take apart partly

take a yarn
observe under
black light
fluorescent lamp
observe using an
optical instrument
observe using an
electronic microscope

occurring defect
investigate the conditions
an experimental
analysis :
test tube analysis
spot analysis
chromatographic
analysis
fastness test, etc.
Instrumental
analysis :
UV-VIS
spectroscopic
analysis
FT-IR analysis
Thermal analysis
Fluorescence
analysis, etc.

observe the appearance

assume the cause of defect

analysis for the determining
of assumption
reproduce test

YES or NO
YES
conclude making a plan
of action

NO

2. Troubleshooting of Cellulosic Dyeing

Defects related to the Pretreatment Process
Process

Defect

Caused by

Measure

Singeing

ununiformity temperature
Singeing Dust unevenness humidity in fabric
singeing in unflattened condition

maintain the steady ratio of gas

and air
maintain the regular humidity in
fabric
check the state of runs in open
width roller

Desizing

unevenness or insufficient
desizing
Desizing Dust
making a spot shaped desizing
dust after dyeing

select a proper desizing agent and

operating conditions

Scouring

Scouring Dust

Bleaching Bleaching Dust

Dust

insufficient scouring
cause of the uneven dyeing

complete desizing and unifom

scouring operation

a problem in whiteness or strength

caused by unevenness bleaching

remove the metal content through

the acid washing

unevenness treatment

complete desizing and unifom

scouring and bleaching operation

use a fluorescent whitening agent

having a poor fastness to light

Whitening
Yellowing

2. Troubleshooting of Cellulosic Dyeing

Defect caused by Desizing Process
Staining on Polyester Fabric

<Stained Sample>

<Microscope Image>

2. Troubleshooting of Cellulosic Dyeing

Staining caused by Mold
Staining on Nylon Jacket

<Stained Sample>
Assume that the staining caused by mold

<Microscope Image>

2. Troubleshooting of Cellulosic Dyeing

Staining caused by Bleaching Process
Pin-hole in cotton knit
After bleaching with hydrogen peroxide, pin-hole sized of needle hole
was found

<Microscope Image>
Assume that In bleaching with hydrogen peroxide, the reaction with
hydrogen peroxide and metal rested in cotton makes pin-hole in fabric

2. Troubleshooting of Cellulosic Dyeing

Defects related to the dyeing and finishing process (1)

(1) Defects found after dyeing and finishing process

defect caused by chemical degradation
defect caused by mixing fibers having different dyeing properties
defect caused by mixing yarns of different blend ratio or various
blend ratio
defect caused by apparent defect of flat surface in fabric

2. Troubleshooting of Cellulosic Dyeing

Defects related to the dyeing and finishing process (2)

(2) Defect caused by chemical degradation in cotton

Chemical Reaction
formation of aldehyde group by the hydrolysis
Acid

with acid
break the main chain in cellulosic molecule

Cotton
Alkali

swelling in cotton fibre

Oxidation formation of carboxyl group by the oxidation

Defect
dyed in light color
decolorization by the reduction
of aldehyde
decline of tensile strength
dyed in deep shade
dyed in light color

2. Troubleshooting of Cellulosic Dyeing

Defect caused by immature cotton
White Spot in Rayon/Cotton Blends

<defected sample>

<nep in the immature cotton>

<nep in the mature cotton>

2. Troubleshooting of Cellulosic Dyeing

Fading (1)
Structure of Dye
chromophores chromogene

dye

auxochrome
chromophores : The part of a molecule responsible for its color
chromogene : Compound that forms coloured compounds on oxidation
auxochrome : A group of atoms that can be attached to a chromogen to
convert it into a dye

2. Troubleshooting of Cellulosic Dyeing

Fading (2)
Fading of dye by the oxidizing agent
Fading of goods by the oxidation process of
the oxidative bleaching agents
- oxidative bleaching agents : hydrogen peroxide, hypochlorous acid
(used in disinfection of pool or tap water)
- examples of oxidative fading
Fading of goods left alone after washing in tap water : Tap water
contains much chlorine
Fading of curtain at the door in pool : the curtain absorb steam
containing chlorine in the pool disinfected with chlorine

2. Troubleshooting of Cellulosic Dyeing

Fading (3)
Fading of dyes by nitrogen oxides gas
Class
Acetate

Cotton

Dye
disperse

Finishing Agent

Level

ease

ease

reactive cationic softening

agent

Cause
attack dyestuff through the diffusion into the fiber
not having amino group fixing NO2

Blocking the attack of NO2 to dyestuff because of

difficulty

the fixing by the amino group in the cationic

softening agent

Wool

acid

difficulty

Polyester

disperse

difficulty

Blocking the attack of NO2 to dyestuff because of

the fixing by the amino group in the wool
Difficulty to diffuse into the fiber because of the
high density of Polyester

2. Troubleshooting of Cellulosic Dyeing

Fading of dyes by nitrogen oxides gas
Discoloration in Nylon/Cotton union cloth
Discoloration in Nylon/Cotton union cloth in sewing process in Vietnam

<defect in ironing>
assumed that discoloration was caused by rest acid, alkali, sweat, rust
and nitrogen oxides gas
a conclusive answer is that discoloration was caused by nitrogen oxides
gas through various experimental results

2. Troubleshooting of Cellulosic Dyeing

Fading of dyes by perspiration
Fading of dyes in cotton T-shirt
Dyestuff : Direct Dye
Fading of dyes was occurred under the arms after wearing

<Normal>

<Fading sample>

Fastness test : to perspiration class 4 - 5, to perspiration-light class 4 5

Dyestuff : metal complex dye(copper)
Test with acidic ingredient perspiration : reproduce test result is agreed
with the sample
Assume that the extracted copper from the dye by the acidic perspiration
is the cause of fading of color

2. Troubleshooting of Cellulosic Dyeing

Fading of color in dyed goods
A specific dye is faded by the contact with metal ion

Wearing a necklace(copper) and a red color T-shirt dyed with reactive dye
The color of contact region is changed to blue
The copper component of necklace is combined with reactive dye

2. Troubleshooting of Cellulosic Dyeing

Fading of color in dyed goods caused by metal component
Fading of color in Nylon/Cotton union cloth
The color of the area of zipper and button is faded

<Microscope Image>
The copper component of button and zipper is combined
with reactive dye => Fading of color

3. Dyeing Composite Materials containing Cellulosic Fibres

Dye cycle diagram of one bath normal dyeing

1 Disperwe Dye
Reactive Dye

X% o.w.f.
Y% o.w.f.

Dispersing Agent
CH3COOH pH = 5.0 5.5
Na2SO4

Z g/l

2 Na2CO3
3 Soaping Agent

boiling point

3. Dyeing Composite Materials containing Cellulosic Fibres

Dye cycle diagram of one bath reverse dyeing

* 1 Disperse Dye X% o.w.f.

Reactive Dye Y% o.w.f
Dispersing Agent
Na2SO4

Z g/l

Na2Co3
2 H2SO4, CH3COOH pH 5.0 5.5
3 Soaping Agent (boiling point)

3. Dyeing Composite Materials containing Cellulosic Fibres

Dye cycle diagram of one bath simultaneous dyeing

1 Disperse Dye

X% o.w.f.

Reactive Dye

Y% o.w.f.

Dispersing Agent
Na2SO4

Z g/l

2 Soaping Agent boiling point

Thank
You!