Apparel Production

Overview

Asif Elahi Mangat

Garment Industry
Knitwear Industry
Used for casual clothing
Famous among all age groups
Thermal comfort better due to its structure
Easy to wear and body comfort
Production is complicated but easily manufacture form
min-max pieces
Stylish , colorful , printing , embroidery

Apparel Process
Buyer

Buying
Houses

Manufactur
er

Merchandiz
er

Forwarder

Designer

Export
Manager

How order generate

Buyer

Tech Pack

Merchandi
zer

Sampling
Costing
Coordination with
owner and buyer

Production

Ppc manager
Production manager
Cutting manager
Stitching In-charge

Yarn
Knitting

Process how
garment is
manufactured

Dyeing
Cutting
Bundling
( Printing
etc)
Stitching
unit
Finishing
Department
Packing
Audit
Forwarding
( Sea / Air )
Ware house
Store

Initial Process
Buyer send tech pack to
Merchandizer
Manufacture will do costing if
profitable they will go for it
Merchandizer will create a bonding
between buyer and owner
Buyer directly in contact with
merchandizer
Difficult in terms of buying house
What is term buying house mean
Direct order and indirect order
Always direct orders are best

Role of Merchandizer
Merchandizer will do initial sampling
Approval from buyer
Types of sampling
Buyer will send PO if he happy with sampling
Merchandizer pass on information to production
manager

Role of production manager

Information from merchandizer
Initial process Yarn purchasing
Knitting manufacturing
Dyeing process
Cutting of fabric
Bundling ( if printing or embroidery )
Stitching
Clipping
Press
Packing
Audit
Shipment move

Departments in garment
manufacturing unit
Merchandisin
g department

Sampling
department

Fabric store
department

Trims and
accessories
store
department

Spreading &
Cutting
department

Sewing
department

Washing
department

Quality
Assurance
department

Finishing &
Packaging
department

Maintenance
Department

Finance and
Accounts
Department

HR/Admin
Department

Process flow in garment

manufacturing unit
BuyerSupplier
Meeting

Production
order
placed

Sampling

Pre
production
sample

Fabric
washing

Raw
material
inspection

Raw
material
procureme
nt

Production

Shipment
sample

Finishing

Packing

Generation
for po

Shipment

Process flow in merchandising

department
Receipt of the
techpack

Draft for
sampling

Pattern making

Raw material
procurement

Raw material
inspection

BOM draft for

production

Getting the fit

sample
approved

Fit sample
making

Getting
approval on
proto sample

Proto sample
development

Approval
sample
development

Order approved
for production

Getting
approvals on
size set samples

Raw material
procurement

R aw material
inspection

Follow up with
the production
department till
delivery

Send shipment
samples to the
buyer

Follow up with
the production
department

Order file
transferred to
the production
department

Approval on pre
production
sample

Responsibilities of a merchandiser
Internal & external communication
Sampling
Preparing internal order sheets
Accessories & trims
Preparing purchase orders

Merchandise
r

Getting approvals on lab dips and bit looms

Advising and assisting production and quality
department
Mediating production and quality departments
Helping documentation
Taking responsibility for inspections
Giving shipping instructions and following
shipment

Sampling department

Responsibilities of sampling department

Getting clarifications about style details from merchandiser.

Checking patterns workability.
Preparation of different samples and getting the buyers approval.
Informing

quality

related

problems,

samples, to QC.
Minimizing operations and consumption.

encountered

during

preparing

Types of sample prepared

Design
development

This is the first sample which is made for any style by most of the buyer.
Design development is either done by buyer or factory
The main purpose is to take the decision to proceed with the same line or not.

Proto sample

Proto sample is developed at very initial stage and normally order is confirmed to
the factory based on proto sample.
Proto sample is the rough interpretation of the enquiry done to acquaint the tailors
with the style.
It is usually done on the substitute fabrics, and using accessories, what is available
and then checked on the dress form.
The buyer may make the necessary changes pertaining to the fit, the drape, the
style details etc.

Fit sample

Fit sample is made and send to conform the fit of the garment on live models or
on dummy and for approval of construction details.
The fabric used for fit sample production is the actual fabric which is going to be
used for bulk production or sample yardage fabric is used.

Photo shoot
sample

In order to promote the new style in the market normally buyer asks for photo
shoot sample.
Buyer uses this photo for marketing purpose either on catalogue or various media
like, print, TV or websites to see the response of the consumer.

Sales man /
Marketing
/Showroom sample

The main purpose of salesman sample is to collect the order from the retailers.
In Sales man sample actual accessory, actual fabric is used or sample yardage
need to be used.
This sample also very important stage of sampling as the sales of buyer depends
upon this sample presentation, look, feel of fabric is important.

Fabric store department

Functions of the fabric store department

Receive the fabric
Fabric inspection (four point system)
Conduct fabric test (e.g. Shrinkage, color fastness etc.)
Issue to the production department as per the requirement

Fabric audit procedure

10% random inspection for sampling or lining or net fabric.
Inspection for production order fabric as per buyers
requirement.
Perform GSM cutting.
Perform shrinkage test.
Check fabric roll for the defects.
Allocate points to the defects.

Spreading and
cutting department

Spreading and cutting flow process

Planning

Spreading

Cutting

Preparation
for sewing

Manual spreading
In manual spreading, fabric is drawn
from its package which, if it is a roll,
may be supported by a frame and
carried along the table where the
end is secured by weights or by
clamps.
The operators work back from the
end,

aligning

the

edges

and

ensuring that there is no tension

and that there are no wrinkles.

Cutti
ng
roo
m

Cutting

Scissors

Manual cutting

Preparation
for sewing

Ticketing

Bundles

Ticketing

Preparation for sewing

Tickets carry details : style no,

size,
ply no, bundle no., date
issued
Operations

may

be

incorporated for
payment purposes, control of
work
and facilitating quality control

Preparation for sewing

Bundling
Small batches of garments move from one work station to another in a
controlled way
Tens, dozens, 2 dozens, etc.

Bundle ticket consists of :

Order no. 6015
Bundle no. 1430
Quantity 12
Style no. 3145
Size 12
Section collar

Sewing department

Sewing process flow

Cut parts
received from
the cutting
room

Bulk
production
begins

In line
inspection

Tagging

Measurement
checking

Final checking

Packing

QA audit by
the buying
house

Ex - factory

Production
continues

Ironing

End line
checking

Rough
checking

Quality department

Quality department

Responsibilities of quality department

To impart quality in the product.
To ensure that the product has achieved the quality parameters of buyers.
To restrict the defects entering into the final product.
Main function of quality department is to carry out inspection.
Inspection can be defined as the visual examination or review of raw materials,
partially finished components of the garments and completely finished garments
in relation to some standards, specifications, or requirements, as well as
measuring the garments to check if they meet the required measurements.

Quality department
Principle of inspection (inspection loop)

Inspection

Correction
of defects

Determinatio
n of causes
of defects

Detection
of defects

Feedback of
these
defects to
appropriate
personnel

Quality department
How much to inspect ?

No inspection
100% inspection
Spot checking- inspecting random shipments
Arbitrary sampling-10% sampling
Statistical sampling or acceptance sampling-flexibility with regard to the
amount of inspection to be performed

Finishing and
Packaging Department

Finishing and Packaging department

Finishing is the last stage of garment production where garment gets its
final look.
In

this

department

each

garment

undergoes

different

finishing

processes.
It undergoes for quality check for several number of time which sets
the garment free from defects.
Buyer specifications and instructions are strictly maintained.

Finishing and packaging department

Operations performed at
finishing stage
Thread cutting: Uncut threads affect the presentation of finished and packed

garments.

Therefore, it is necessary to cut and trim the loose and uncut

threads.
Stain removal: Removal of the following type of stains:

Oil, yellow, black and paint spots, stains due to color bleeding, ink,
rust, tracing marks, yellow stains, and hard stains

Seam ironing: Ironing of garments using steam ironing tables with vacuum

boards.
Final finishing: The entire garment is finished using various finishing

equipments.

Finishing and packaging department

Operations performed at
finishing stage
Presentation

checking

and

cartoon

packing
It is very important to check the packed
garments for presentation. Checkers check
the packed garments for the following
things:
Poly bags are as per specification.

Tags and price stickers are as per

specification.

Packing is secured or not if specified.

Poly bags should not be soiled and torn.
Hangers are there or not if specified.

Garment

has

specification etc.

been

folded

as

per

Finishing and packaging department

Operations performed at
finishing stage

Presentation checking and cartoon packing

Once, checking is done they send the garments

for the carton packing. The following things are
kept in mind during carton packing:

Number of garments to be packed in one

carton.

Ratio asked for example =1:2:2:1

Packing the garments in the cartons as per

specified.

Closing the cartons with cello tape.

Sealing the cartons with plastic cord.

Writing on carton information like: Store or

buyer name, buyer's address, ratio, net
weight of the carton etc.

Thank you