3.

Fabric Manufacture-I (NTT-302)

Unit (1): Introduction to weaving process and its sequence, Objective of

conventional cone winding, classification of winding, (manual & automatic),
Study of slow, high and super high speed warp winding machines, difference
between precision winding and drum winding, Features of slow, high & super
high speed winding machines.
Unit (2): Type of package winding (parallel & cross winding), thread stop
motion, tensioning device, Mechanical & electrical sub-catchers, clearing
efficiency of winding machine, knot factor, types of knot
Unit (3): Ways of yarn traversing, Machine traverse ratio, angle of wind,
conicity of cone, packages, ribbon formation and method of its elimination,
package density, winding parameters, package defects during winding and
their remedies.
Unit (4): Auto-coner: Objective of auto-coner, important parts of auto-coner
and their functions, concept of yarn clearing, concept of splicing, Brief idea of
classimat test report, Cheese winding, Important parts of cheese winding &
their functions.
Unit (5): High speed weft winding machines, detailed study of mechanism
and setting of speed on weft winders, Automatic and non-automatic pirn
winding machines, Bunch motion and its importance, Maintenance practices
in winding machines,

UNIT -1

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What is a fabric?

Fabric or cloth is a flexible material

made by weaving or knitting of yarns
or natural/ artificial fibers.

Fabric or Cloth is mostly used for

garments and household furnishings
etc.
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Textile fabrics are

classified as

Woven Fabric
Knitted fabric
Non woven or felt fabric

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Woven Fabric: Two series of threads ( Warp

& weft) which interlace one another at right
angles according to the structure required.
Woven fabrics are used in all types of
garments and home furnishing made ups.

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Knitted Fabric: Interlacing of one thread with

itself in the form of loops.

Knitted fabric

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Non woven :
The distinguishing feature of true non-woven
fabric is that it contains no threads but is
purely a fibrous structure. It is mostly used in
apparel

interlinings,

Carpet

backing,

disposable diapers, etc.

Non Woven Fabric

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WEAVING:
Weaving
sets of

is

the interlacement

of two

yarn. For interlacement

continuous

basis

some

on a

equipment

/machinery is required which is popularly

known as loom.

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TERMINOLOGIES RELATED TO WEAVING

End:
Single longitudinal yarn in the warp sheet
is

known as End.

The group of ends in

whole width is called warp sheet .

Pick:
Single transverse thread of the fabric is
technically known as Pick.

Yarn used as

pick is called weft.

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Heald:
This is a device which enables individual End
to take up and down motion. It is a wire with
an eye in the middle.

The yarn is drawn

through the eye.

Heald Frame:
It contains number of healds, which controls a
group

of warp ends.

For plain weave

minimum 2 heald frames are required as the

weave is one up one down.
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Reed:
It is a comb type device. The function of reed
is to maintain individual ends of the warp
sheet parallel and also to maintain the width
of the fabric. This device also enable beatingup action.

Shuttle:
It is a device that carries weft yarn(Pick) to
and fro across the fabric width . It contains a
spool of a weft yarn called Pirn bobbin .

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PRIMARY MOTIONS:
SHEDDING
PICKING
BEATING

Shedding :
It is a motion that divides the warp sheet
into two layers as per the weave of the fabric
. This division helps interlacement of warp
and weft. Between the two layers of warp
(shed), weft yarn is inserted through picking
motion.
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Picking:
It

is a motion through which transverse yarn

(pick) is put across the width of the fabric.
Some carrier,like shuttle, projectile, rapier or
jet takes the weft yarn from one side of the
warp sheet to the other through the shed.

Beating-up:
With the help of this motion the transverse
yarn put through picking within the shed is
taken to the fell of the fabric or in other
words the pick is kept at the right position in
the fabric.
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SECONDARY MOTIONS:
Let-off motion
Take-up motion

Let-off Motion:
It

is

motion

which

lets

the

warp-sheet

unwound from the warp beam during weaving

and also maintain an average constant tension
of warp as it weaves.
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15

Take-up Motion:
It is a motion that wound woven cloth on a
wooden or aluminum roller which is known as
cloth roller. To pull the cloth forward after the
beat up of weft, maintaining the same pick
density & spacing through out weaving of a
cloth and winding the woven cloth on to a
roller.
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16

(Fabric Formation) WEAVING

VING PREPARATORY

DING

LOOM SHED

WARPING

E WINDING
WINDING

SIZING

DRAWING-IN

DIRECT WARPING
SECTIONAL WARPING

MANUAL
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GREY INSPECTION

AUTOMATC DRAWING-I
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Warp Preparation
Prior to weaving yarn has to be made
suitable for weaving, for this purpose
following steps are required to be
taken as

a part of

yarn preparation.

These steps are listed as under

(a)
(b)
(c)
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Winding
Warping
Sizing
18

Weft Preparation:

Pirn Winding

Pirn winding is required only in

the case of shuttle
technology while in case of
shuttle-less technology direct
cones are used as weft
package.
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Objective of Cone Winding:

The winding process has the basic function of obtaining
a larger package from several small ring bobbins.
The yarn

objectionable faults

are

also removed from

the yarn. The process of removing such objectionable

faults is called as yarn

clearing .

Preparation of cones/cheese having good drawing - off

properties and continuous long length of yarn.
Achievement of a high machine efficiency and high
production level at subsequent stages.
Paraffin waxing of the yarn during the winding process.
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The principle objective of the winding is to

assemble long length of yarn onto package
form suitable for subsequent operations such
as warping, weaving and knitting.
The suitability of package is adjudged by its
ability to get easily unwound at the high speed
and the wound yarn should be free from
objectionable faults like very thick and thin
places. But at the same time the number of
joint ends (splices) should be minimal.
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MAIN PARTS OF THE CONE WINDING MACHINE

BOBBIN PEG:
Bobbin pegs are located on the lower side of the
machine and ring bobbins are fitted on them.

YARN GUIDE:
Yarn guide is fitted before tension device, it gives
proper direction to yarn movement.

TENSION DEVICE:
Tension in the yarn as per count is controlled by
tension device.
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MECHANICAL/ELECTRONIC CLEARER:
Yarn faults are removed by passing the yarn through
electronic clearer.
STOP MOTIONS:
The winding process is stopped in case of yarn
breakage by the stop motion.

WINDING DRUM:
Systematic winding of yarn on the cone is done by
winding drum.

CONE HOLDER:
Cone is fitted in the cone holder which is fitted on
the cradle.
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Classification
machines:

of

cone

winding

Manual cone winding machine

Automatic cone winding machine
Manual Cone winding machine: In manual cone
winding machine, most of the work (creeling,
knotting, doffing) is performed manually by
the operator.
Automatic cone winding machine: In automatic
cone winding machine, creeling and knotting
of broken ends are done automatically by the
machine
itself, however, doffing operation may
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