Apparel Finish and Care

UNIT I
GARMENT DYEING
GARMENT DYEING
FABRIC SELECTION
SEWING THREAD SELECTION
ACCESSORIES SELECTION
DYE SELECTION
GARMENT DYEING MACHINERY

Dept. of Fashion Technology, KCT, Coimbatore.

Apparel Finish and Care

GARMENT DYEING
What is garment dyeing?
Garment dyeing is the process of dyeing fully fashioned garments.
(such as pants, pullovers, t-shirts, jeans, sweaters, dresses,
bathrobes, casual jackets, shirts, skirts, hosieries)
As opposed to the conventional method of manufacturing garments
from pre-dyed fabrics.
Most garments are made of cotton knit goods and/or cotton woven
fabrics.
Although several other fabrics can be found in the whole or in part
such as wool, nylon, silk, acrylic, polyester and others.
Due to cost savings and fashion trends, garment dyeing has been
gaining importance and popularity in the past years and will
continue to do so in the future.

Dept. of Fashion Technology, KCT, Coimbatore.

Apparel Finish and Care

GARMENT DYEING
Need of garment dyeing
Traditionally, garments are constructed from fabrics that are pre
dyed (piece dyed) before the actual cutting and sewing.
The advantage of this process is the cost effectiveness of mass
producing identical garments of particular colors.
Quick Response to the market (bar coding etc.,)
Ability to supply a wide range of colorations to the retailer, but
only in the shades that are selling
Reduced discounted sales at inventory
Best way to achieved relaxed, casual look
Ability to create special effects such as tie dyed, pigment dyed
and washed down in a single process etc.,

A major drawback with this approach is the risk associated

with carrying a large inventory of a particular style or color
in today's dynamic market.

Dept. of Fashion Technology, KCT, Coimbatore.

Apparel Finish and Care

Special considerations to garment dyer

-

Very good communications between all parties involved

Preparation - may be done on piece goods or on garments clean
substrate for dyeing reduced shrinkage (preferably squared) for
wovens should be less than 5% for knits should be less than 8%
Metal components should be non-ferrous pewter buttons are
acceptable
Non-metal components that are not sensitive to dye chemistry or
temperatures at a boil are acceptable
polyester zippers, buttons, etc. which are clear or predyed tie dyed
splatter dyed
weathered pigment dye and wash down in a single process nickel
plated brass zippers are acceptable
Velcro - clear or predyed
special polyamide buttons which are dyeable
Threads must be of same fiber as the fabric in the garment or
"grinning" will occur.
Pre dyed threads may be used
Corespun threads with a strength or stretch yam in the core and the
desired fiber on the outside
Covered threads may be used
"Tacking" of sleeves and pant legs to prevent tangling

Dept. of Fashion Technology, KCT, Coimbatore.

Apparel Finish and Care

GARMENT DYEING
Categories of Garment Dyeing
The dyeing of the garments requires more care than the dyeing of
the fabric, though there is very little difference in the dyeing
procedures. This is due to the fact that processing of garments
involves value added goods.
The entire garment dyeing activities may be broken down in to four
categories:
1. Fully fashioned garment dyeing carried out by major dyers and
finishers
2. Cut and sewn garment covering woven and knitted fabrics.
1. Dyeing of 100% cotton goods for boutique trade suitable for
hand washing. and
1. Washing, desizing, bleaching denim goods, leading to stone
wash, snow wash, over dyeing and highlighting effects.
Dept. of Fashion Technology, KCT, Coimbatore.

Apparel Finish and Care

GARMENT DYEING
Advantages of Garment Dyeing
Flexibility towards fast changing
market trends
Quick response and rapid
turnaround

Disadvantages of Garment Dyeing

Labour intensive process and
requires thorough checking of
every piece
Higher seconds rate

Flexibility towards dye shades

and finishes

Poor appearance

Flexibility of lot size

Poor reproducibility of shades

Flexibility of items to be dyed

Special care in the selection of

fittings

Comparatively less rejection

Low inventory
Less capital investments
Fancy effects
Dept. of Fashion Technology, KCT, Coimbatore.

More

material

handling

Apparel Finish and Care

SELECTION OF FABRIC

Lots or batches of greige fabric must be selected that will dye up

identical in shade.

Loom state fabric must be converted into RFD (ready for Dyeing)
Stage.
- Desized, Scoured for dark colours,
- Desized, Scoured and bleached for light colours
To get the best-looking garments.
- Desized, Scoured, bleached and Mercerized

For heavily swelling fibres such as cotton, the elasticized areas, waist
bands and cuffs, must be fairly slack, and seams should not be too
tight or bulky.

Dept. of Fashion Technology, KCT, Coimbatore.

Apparel Finish and Care

SELECTION OF FABRIC
Shrinking behavior of the fabric must be uniform before garment
dyeing.
Articles which are prone to Crease marks or Pilling effects should be
turned inside out and dyed with the addition of a non-foaming lubricant
while adopting the shortest possible dyeing process.
Fabrics should be free from foreign materials (Contamination)
The interlinings used are to be checked for their performance to satisfy
the requirement.
- Dyes to be taken as same as the outer fabric.
- The gum should not be removed off from the surface
- The resin in the interlinings should not make adverse
effect on the dyeing color.

Dept. of Fashion Technology, KCT, Coimbatore.

Apparel Finish and Care

SELECTION OF ACCESSORIES
Buttons, Studs and Zippers:
Free from Nickel
Polyester buttons for pre determined colors.
Nylon preferred
Wooden to be verified before usage.
Brass, antiq brass, silver, gun metal, golden zippers can be used
and to be checked before the bulk process.
Studs and Buttons may be used after dyeing of the garment most
of the cases to avoid breakages and damages to the fabric.
Care Labels& Embroideries
Care labels to be used are to be good in fastness properties.
It should not absorb the dyes from the bath.
Polyester care labels are mostly used.
A pouch may be used to avoid dye penetration on the care labels.
Embroidery threads are used as polyester threads for pre
confirmed colors.
If the effect is required, then RFD cotton yarn is used for the
embroidery as like sewing threads.
Dept. of Fashion Technology, KCT, Coimbatore.

Apparel Finish and Care

SELECTION OF SEWING THREAD

Cotton thread is preferred in most of the garment dyeing.

They should be of same lot.
Polyester threads can be used only in pre determined colors.
Nylon threads can be used. Proper care should be taken in
maintaining consistency.
Sewing threads to be of high strength to withstand the
required seam strength.
Mostly heavy threads than normal polyester threads are
used.
Should be free from hairiness.
Threads with low tension to be applied while sewing to
balance the shrinkage of threads.
Depending upon the requirement, the thread numbers can
be used.
Core spun yarn also be used for better performance of
seams.

Dept. of Fashion Technology, KCT, Coimbatore.

Apparel Finish and Care

SELECTION OF SEWING

Sewing Recommendations:

Stitch density
Thread Tension
Stitch and Seam type
Needle size

Dept. of Fashion Technology, KCT, Coimbatore.

Apparel Finish and Care

GARMENT DYEING MACHINES

Garment dyeing machines
There are two types of equipment regularly used for garment dyeing.
1. Paddle machines
A high liquor ratio is required for paddle machines, which is less
economical and may limit shade reproducibility.
2. Rotary drums
Rotary drum machines are sometimes preferred for garments,
which require gentler handling, such as sweaters.
Many machinery companies have developed sophisticated rotary
dyeing machines, which incorporate state-of-the-art technology.

Dept. of Fashion Technology, KCT, Coimbatore.

Apparel Finish and Care

GARMENT DYEING MACHINES

Types of Machines
1. Paddle machines:
A.
B.
C.

Horizontal Paddle Machine

Lateral / oval paddle
HT Paddle Machines

2. Rotary drums
A.
B.

Rotary Drum Dyeing Machine

Tumbler Dyeing Machine

3. Toroid Dyeing Machine

4. Modified Pegg Toroid Whiteley garment dyeing
machine
5. The Gyrobox
6. The MCS Readymade garment dyeing machine
7. Leemetals epicyclic Paddle dyeing machine
Dept. of Fashion Technology, KCT, Coimbatore.

Apparel Finish and Care

GARMENT DYEING MACHINES

1. PADDLE DYEING MACHINE
Working Principle:
A process of dyeing textiles in a machine that gently move
the goods using paddles similar to a paddle wheel on a
boat.

This is a slow process, but there is extremely little abrasion

on the goods.

Dept. of Fashion Technology, KCT, Coimbatore.

Apparel Finish and Care

GARMENT DYEING MACHINES

1A. Horizontal Paddle Machines

Paddle
Wheel

(over head paddle machine) consist

of a curved beck like lower suction
to contain the materials and the
dye liquor.
The goods are moved by a rotating
paddle, which extends across the
width of the machine.

Drain

Half immersed paddles cause the

material to move upwards and
downwards through out the liquor.
The temperature can be raised to
98o C in such system.

Dept. of Fashion Technology, KCT, Coimbatore.

Apparel Finish and Care

GARMENT DYEING MACHINES

1B. Lateral / oval paddle

Peddle

This machines consist of oval tank

to enhance the fluid flow and the
processing the goods.
In the middle of this tank is a
closed oval island.
Island

The paddle moves in a lateral

direction and is not half
submerged in the liquor.

Circulation

Dye Bath

Dept. of Fashion Technology, KCT, Coimbatore.

The temperature can be increased

up to 98o C.

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GARMENT DYEING MACHINES

1 Trough body
2 Slurry disk
3 Door
4 Charging
bucket
5 Thermometer
6 Indirect heating
valve
7 Direct heating
valve
8 Trough body
water supply
valve
9 Trough body
drainage valve
10. Cooling
drainage valve
11. Drainage
controller

Dept. of Fashion Technology, KCT, Coimbatore.

1C. HT Paddle Machines

It works according to the
principle of horizontal paddle
machine.
however, the temperature can
be raised up to 140o C.
PES articles are preferably
dyed on HT paddles.

Apparel Finish and Care

GARMENT DYEING MACHINES

General Parameters & Features
In paddle machines,
The dyeing can be carried out with 30:1 to 40:1 Liquor to Material
Ratio.
Lower ratios reduces optimum movement of the goods, lead to
unleveled dyeing, crease formation.
For gentleness, the blades of the paddle are either curved or have
rounded edges.
The rotating speed of the paddle can be regulated from 1.5 to 40
rpm.
Circulation of the liquor should be strong enough to prevent goods
from sinking to the bottom.
Paddle machines are suitable for dyeing articles of all substrates in
all forms of make ups.
The goods are normally dyed using PP/PET bags.
Dept. of Fashion Technology, KCT, Coimbatore.

Apparel Finish and Care

GARMENT DYEING MACHINES

2A. Rotary Drum Dyeing Machine
Door

Movement of textile material and a

stationary liquor.
Steam Pipe

The rotary drum dyeing machine

consists of rotating perforated
cylindrical drum , which rotates
slowly inside a vessel of slightly
bigger in size.
The internal drum is divided into
compartments to ensure rotation of
goods with the drum rotation.
The outer vessel holds the required
quantity of dye liquor.
High temperature drum machines are
capable of processing the garments
up to 140o C.

Dept. of Fashion Technology, KCT, Coimbatore.

Apparel Finish and Care

GARMENT DYEING MACHINES

Features of modern rotary-dyeing Machine
1.

Lower liquor ratio

2.

Gentle movement of goods and liquor (minimizes surface abrasion)

3.

Rapid heating and cooling

4.

Centrifugal extraction

5.

Variable drum speed with reversal capability

(adaptable to a wide variety of goods)

6.

Continuous circulation of goods (improves migration control)

7.

Ease of sampling

8.

Variable water levels with overflow rinsing capabilities

9.

Large diameter feed and discharge lines

(minimizes filling and draining time)

10. Microprocessor controls

11. Lint filters
12. Pressure dyeing
13. Auto-balancing drums
Dept. of Fashion Technology, KCT, Coimbatore.

Apparel Finish and Care

GARMENT DYEING MACHINES

General Parameters & Features of Rotary Machine
One feature that can be used to reduce abrasion on delicate
garments or to minimize tangling is a compartmental chamber,
sometimes referred to as a "Y" pocket.
The rotary drum machines are very simple to operate and are
quite compact in size.
The cost of unit is also not high .

Drum dyeing-centrifuging machines are also called

- multipurpose drum machines or
- multi-rapid dyeing centrifuging machines
since these machines can perform scouring, dyeing, centrifuging
and conditioning successively with automated controls.

Dept. of Fashion Technology, KCT, Coimbatore.

Apparel Finish and Care

GARMENT DYEING MACHINES

Working Features of Rotary Machine
The goods are treated in a perforated inner drum housed
within an outer drum (dyeing tank).
Inner drums without dividing walls are provided with ribs
that carry the goods along for a certain time, partially lifting
them up out of the liquor.
These machines can operate at very low liquor ratios and
can dye the goods up to 98 -140o C.

This is suitable for knits as well as other garments.

Liquor circulation can be intensified using additional jets.
Drums can be rotated in both the directions.

Dept. of Fashion Technology, KCT, Coimbatore.

Apparel Finish and Care

GARMENT DYEING MACHINES

2B. Tumbler Dyeing Machine
These machines are being used for
small garments either in loose form
or in open mesh bags.
Design wise the tumbler dyeing
machines are similar to the
commercial laundering machines.
The principle of operation is to load
the material into perforated inner SS
tanks , which rotates round a
horizontal shaft fixed at the back of
the drum.
The
drum
is
divided
into
compartments for moving the goods
with rotation of drum.

Dept. of Fashion Technology, KCT, Coimbatore.

Apparel Finish and Care

GARMENT DYEING MACHINES

General Parameters & Features of Tumbler Dyeing Machine

A variety of tumbling machines have higher rotation speeds

and can spin dry at the end of the cycle.

These
are
similar
to
dry-cleaning
machines.
Rotating drum machines are more efficient and cleaner to
operate than paddle machines.

The more vigorous mechanical action often promotes more

shrinkage and bulking, which may be desirable for some
articles.

In order to handle higher quantities and large production of

similar pieces the latest machines are provided with several
automatic features and sophistications.

Dept. of Fashion Technology, KCT, Coimbatore.

Apparel Finish and Care

GARMENT DYEING MACHINES

3. Toroid Dyeing Machine
In these machines the garments
circulate in the liquor in a toroidal
path with the aid of an impeller
situated below the perforated false
bottom of the vessel.
Movement of the goods depends
completely on the pumped action of
the liquor.
High-temperature versions of this
machine operating at 120 to 130C
were developed in the 1970s for
dyeing fully-fashioned polyester or
triacetate garments.
The liquor ratio of such machines is
about 30:1.

Dept. of Fashion Technology, KCT, Coimbatore.

Apparel Finish and Care

GARMENT DYEING MACHINES

4.

Modified Pegg Toroid Whiteley garment dyeing

machine

This is an improved version of Toroid machines , the

additional features are:

The machine is suitable for both atmospheric and

pressure dyeing.

Full automation upto hydroextraction.

The design features, speed and performance is

simplified to make the machine more versatile and free
from operating problems.

Dept. of Fashion Technology, KCT, Coimbatore.

Apparel Finish and Care

GARMENT DYEING MACHINES

5.The Gyrobox

The machine has support in the form of a large wheel, which

is divided into 12 independent non radial compartments.

The goods are placed in these compartments .

The wheel runs at a moderate speed of 2-6 rpm.

The main advantage of this machine are,

1.Reduced M:L
2.Different types of garments can be dyed simulteneously .
3.Flexible loading
4.Fully automatic operation.

Dept. of Fashion Technology, KCT, Coimbatore.

Apparel Finish and Care

GARMENT DYEING MACHINES

6.

The MCS Readymade garment dyeing

machine

The rotodye machines are suitable for dyeing

pure cotton, wool, polyester, cotton blends in
the form of T shirts, sweaters, bath rugs and
accessories , socks and stockings.

7.

Leemetals
machine.

Dept. of Fashion Technology, KCT, Coimbatore.

epicyclic

Paddle

dyeing