+

Textile Fibers & Their

Properties
Chapter 3

+Foundation for Understanding Textiles

The foundation for understanding

TEXTILES &

TEXTILE PRODUCTS is science!

The reason for understanding the foundation is to

PREDICT textile performance, serviceability and quality

Good predictions lead to satisfaction

MOST customer dissatisfaction is the result of poor

textile performance!

+ Science Foundation

The basic building block for all textile performance is

the FIBER

The basic building block for each type of fiber is the

chemical structure

Thus, understanding the chemistry of each type of

fiber is essential to understanding properties such as

dyeability and color retention

abrasion resistance and durability

moisture absorbency and comfort

Fiber Properties, Science & Fiber

Chemistry

Definition of FIBER:

The fundamental unit used in the fabrication of textile

yarns and fabrics

A natural or man-made substance having a length at

least 100 times its diameter

Is capable of being spun into a yarn or made directly

into a fabric.

Essential Properties of a Fiber

High Length to Width Ratio

Tenacity

Pliability or Flexibility

Cohesiveness or Spinning Quality

Uniformity

Cross-sectional shape

+ Make-Up of Fibers
Physical

Structure

Chemical
Fiber

Composition

Characteristics

Comfort

Properties

Appearance
Care

Properties

Properties

Aesthetic
Other

Properties

Properties

1. Physical Structure

Length [staple or filament]

Staple Fiber short fibers measured in inches or centimeters

Except for silk, all natural fibers are available only in staple form
Filament long, continuous fiber strands of indefinite length, measured in
miles or kilometers.

Diameter (size) [denier]

Denier is the weight in grams of 9,000 meters of fiber or yarn

Cross-sectional shape

Surface contour, outer surface along the length

Crimp

Fiber Crimp refers to the waves, bends, twists, coils, or curls along the
length of the fiber.
Fabric Crimp refers to the bends caused by distortion of yarns due to
weaving and knitting.

Fiber Parts (outer covering ~ cuticle, inner area, and central

core).

2. Chemical Composition

Generic Group

Polymers

Amorphous random or disorganized arrangement within a fiber (wool &

rayon)
Crystalline molecular chains are organized parallel to each other (polyester &
nylon)

Orientation through stretching or drawing (in manufactured fibers)

Refers to the length of the polymer, which depends on the # of molecules

connected in that chain

Molecular Arrangement

Small molecules (monomers) join together to form a long chain

Degree of Polymerization

Grouping by similar chemical compositions

Causes the chains to become more parallel to each other

Intermolecular forces

hydrogen bonding
van der Waals forces

3. Fiber Properties

Abrasion Resistance

Flammability

Absorbency

Hand

Compressibility

Heat Sensitivity

Cover

Loft

Dimensional Stability

Pilling

Dyeability

Resiliency

Elasticity

Specific Gravity

Electrical Conductivity

Wicking

+ 4. Comfort Properties

Absorbency

Hydrophilic absorb moisture

Hydrophobic little or no absorbency

Hygroscopic absorb moisture without feeling wet

Oil (also relates to appearance)

Oleophilic - having a strong affinity for oils rather than water

Oleophobic - lacking affinity for oils

Heat or Thermal Retention

Water

Ability of a textile to hold heat

Wicking

Ex. The fabric wicks perspiration away from the body

+ Example of Different Wicking

Rates

5. Appearance Properties

Resiliency

Dimensional stability

Ability of a fabric to
retain its original size &
shape through use and
care

change in shape
shrinkage resistance

Ability of a textile to
return to its original
shape after bending,
twisting, or crushing

Elasticity recovery

Ability of a textile to
return to its original
dimension or shape
after elongation

6. Care Properties
Proper

care is
dependent upon
fiber, yarn, fabric
structure, finish, and
components of final
textile product

Wash,

Bleach, Dry,
Iron, Dry Clean ???

7. Aesthetic Properties
Luster
Drape
Texture
Hand

+ 8. Other Properties

Resistance
interaction

to Chemicals

between fibers molecular

structure and the molecular structure
of other substances
impacts the fibers ability to
be dyed or printed
resist degradation

+ 8. Other Properties
Resistance
interaction

to Light

between molecular
structure of the fiber and
ultraviolet light (UV light)
UV light can cause breakdown in
the bonds between atoms in the
fibers molecule, resulting in sun
rot or fading

+
Fiber
Identification

Laboratory Testing:

Visual Inspection
Burn Test
Solubility to
Chemicals