APPAREL QUALITY

STANDARDS AND
IMPLEMENTATION
UNIT I
QUALITY STANDARDS

Standards
It is a document that has been
prepared, approved, and published
by
a
recognized
standards
organization, and contains rules,
requirements, or procedures for an
orderly approach to a specific
activity.
It may include product design
requirements,
test
methods,
classifications,
recommended

Precise Vs Accurate

Importance of Quality
Tough competition
Educated customer
Right specifications, Right Time,
Right Price
Every Time, First Time

Traditional Method
Manufacturing Cost + Profit = Selling Price
What customer expects is minimum Selling price
Desired Method
Selling Price = Manufacturing cost + Profit
Base for the system
Quality
Customer
Price

Inspection Vs Quality Control

Inspection

Quality Control

Starts after production

Starts before & along

Segregates good and bad

with production
Ensures that bad things
will not happen

Responsibility of the
Inspection department

Every bodies
responsibility

Introduction to quality
standards
Quality standard is a documented
process intended to control work
resulting in a certain level of
excellence (quality).
The standards degree of control is a
basis for its selection for achieving
that level of quality.
Two basic types of standards:
voluntary consensus standards and
regulatory standards.

Types Quality standards

Company Standard
Industry Standard
Government Standard
Full consensus Standard

Benefits of Quality
standards
It defines safety requirements intended to
reduce the risk of accident.
It sets a level of performance for products.
They are a framework for quality processes.
It reduces cost and saves money.
Encapsulation of best practice - avoids
repetition of past mistakes.
It facilitates communication and prevents
misunderstanding.
They provide continuity.

Effective standardization
Standards allow a company to:
Attract and assure customers
Demonstrate market leadership
Create competitive advantage
Develop and maintain best practice.

Standards are a respected

badge of quality
Customers look for the independent
verification that technical standards
provide.
Certification
marks
earned
by
businesses whose products and
practices consistently stand up to
rigorous examination are instantly
recognizable and act as respected
badges of quality, safety and
performance.

Standards within business

In modern business, effective communication along
the supply chain and with legislative bodies, clients
and customers is imperative.
Standardization can deliver measurable benefits
when applied within the infrastructure of a company
itself.
Business costs and risks can be minimised, internal
processes
streamlined
and
communication
improved.
Standardization promotes interoperability, providing
a competitive edge necessary for the effective
worldwide trading of products and services.

Levels of Quality
Standards
Fitness for standard -inspection
oriented
-no
consciousness
to
customer/mkt
Fitness for use -Must satisfy customer
need for use -Hotel shampoo & body
oil
Fitness for market -Must achieve low
cost as well as 1 & 2
Fitness for latent requests -Listening
to the voice of the customer

Sources of Quality
Standards

AATCC
ASTM
ANSI
BSI
ISO
BIS
JIN
CSA
DIN
Others

American Association for textile

Chemists and Colorists
It began developing and establishing
testing procedures in 1921.
It represent a broad spectrum of expertise
in textile research, manufacturing, design
and marketing.
The
Association
is
internationally
recognized for its standard methods of
testing dyed and chemically treated fibers
and fabrics. Each ASTM test methods has a
numerical designations

AATCC
For e.g.
D5034-9 refers to standard test
method for Breaking strength and
elongation of Textile fabrics (Grab
test)
These methods are contained in
volumes of (ASTM book of Stds).
Vol.7.01,7.02 Contains textile testing
standards

American National Standard

Institute
It adopted its present name in 1969.
It steadily increasing its efforts to
coordinate and approve voluntary
national standards
Domestic programs were expanding
and being modified to meet the
changing
needs
of
industry,
government and other sectors.

British Standard
Institute
The
world's
first
management
systems quality standard, BS 5750,
was published by BSI in 1979.
It
produces
standards
and
information products that promote
and share best practice.
Over 30,000 BSI standards and
publications are created.

Numbering British Standards

The British Standards are titled as,
BS XYZ:Year Title
Where,
XYZ is the number of the standard
For Example:
BS EN ISO 9001:2000 Quality management
systems Requirements
BS EN ISO 9004:2000 Quality management
systems.
Guidelines
for
performance
improvements

International Organisation for

Standardisation
It is the world's largest developer of
standards, their principal activity is to
develop technical and economical standards.
The work is normally carried out through IS0
technical committees.
In addition may European and Domestic
versions be publishes as:
EN ISO xyz:year = European version of the
International Standard
BS EN ISO xyz:year = British version of the
International Standard

Structure of ISO

Bureau of Indian
Standards
It is a statutory body set up,
established in 1986.
The Bureau is a body corporate and
responsible for formulatingNational
Standards.
It interests the field of standardization,
quality control, quality management
system, environmental management
system, laboratory management, etc

BIS
It has formulated a plan which emphasizes on :
Development of complementary level of
standardization,
namely,
company
standardization
and
association
level
standardization - Effective implementation of
standards through sectoral committees, such
as, textiles, power, etc.
State Level Committees on Standardization
and Quality Systems to ensure better
implementation of Indian Standards.

JIN (Japanese Industrial

Standard )
It specifies the standards used for
industrial activities in Japan.
The
standardization
process
is
coordinated
by
Japanese Industrial Standards Commi
ttee
(JISC)
It
mainly
focuses
on
Textile
Engineering.

JIN - Focus
It Focuses on,
General
Test and Inspection
Thread
Woven Fabric, Braided Goods Braided Goods
Textile Product
Yarn Reeling Machine
Textile Machine, Braiding Machine
Dyeing Finishing Machine

Canada Standard
Association
These
standards
fall
into
the
following
classifications:
Dimensional:
to
secure
uniformity,
interchangeability and simplification of the
types and sizes of one product.
Qualitative: to assess fitness for purpose.
Methods of test: to provide a uniform, efficient
and economic basis of comparison between
products.
Methods of use (Codes of Practice): to define
the correct application of methods, materials
and appliances.

DIN (German Standards Institute Deutsches Institute fuer Normung )

It has been based in Berlin since

1917.
Its primary task is to work closely
with its stakeholders to develop
consensus-based
standards
that
meet market requirements.

Some Other Standards

EN ( European Standards )
AS ( Australian Standards )

Quality Control
A set of activities or techniques
whose purpose is to ensure that all
quality requirements are being met
by monitoring of processes and
solving
performance
problems
through Inspecting and Testing.

ISO 9000 - series of

standards
International Organization for standardization
This std was first released in March, 1987
ISO 9000 gives guidelines for selection of
standards
Contractual standards are :
ISO 9001-1994: This is applicable to the
organizations who design, develop, manufacture
and supply and service product.
ISO 9002-1994: This is applicable to the
organizations who manufacture, supply and
service product or services as per specifications
given by the customer.

Features of ISO
standards
These are standards of system of
production
These are generic standards
These are practical standards
These are not product standards
These ensure consistency of product
quality
In this, mistakes are corrected in a
systematic way so chances of
repetition reduced.

Losses due to bad

quality
Tangible
Increased rejection/rework
Less production/productivity
Higher customer complaints.
Intangible
Loss of goodwill
Conflicts between different depts.
Loss of morale
Quality and Productivity
Go hand in hand
Quality is key to higher productivity

Types of Quality

Quality
Quality
Quality
Quality
Quality

of
of
of
of
of

Design
Product
Process
Systems
Service

Effects of Bad Quality

Tangible
Higher Rejection
Higher Rework
Higher no. of customer complaints
Less production/productivity
Intangible
Credit down in the market
Dept. to Dept. quarrels
Less interest in work
Quality & Productivity
Supplementary to each other
Productivity increases with good Quality

Numerous benefits that will be derived

from working to ISO 9001 2000 & TS 16949
Improved communication at all levels
Decreasing trend in rejections, reworks, customer complaints
Decreasing trend in inventories
Raw materials
W.I.P.
Finished Goods

Lead time reduction

Customer relation improvement.
Trust/confidence enhancement.
Sub-contractor relation improvement.
Long term association.
Improved housekeeping
Improved contacts with overseas buyers.
People development
Improved health of people.

Some More Benefits of

ISO

It reduces rejection/rework
It improves housekeeping
It increases morale of the company
It ensures Quality and after sales
service to customers
It improves team work

ISO saves cost by :

avoiding repetition of work
avoiding unnecessary records
monitoring processes and many other ways
Opportunities for export market
Due to increased confidence of customers in
you, you get more & more orders
It improves discipline in the organization
It increases credit in the market

Steps to be followed for

ISO
Study the standard and select the right standard
Define Quality policy & Quality objectives. Display at
various locations, explain meaning/intent to all
Give training to each & every employee
Write Work Procedures giving details of all activities
Make changes in Work practices, wherever necessary
Conduct Internal Audit to find out whether work is
carried out as per written procedures
Implement suggestions/observations of Internal Audit
Conduct an Audit by External (Friends) Auditors
Implement suggestions received from them
For certification audit call world famous, well known
auditors for audit
Implement their suggestions
Achieve certification

What we can do for effective

implementation of ISO
We must know the complete details of the work
we are doing
We must know our Work Procedures in detail
Our work place must be neat and clean
Everything
must
be
attached
with
a
label/tag/colour along with its status i.e. For
Inspection/Accepted/ Rejected /For rework etc.
All the inspection, measuring & test equipment
must be calibrated
We must maintain records, wherever written in
the work procedures
We must be ready for change

Importance of ISO 9000

Many companies offer products and
services, but it is those companies
who put out the best products and
services efficiently that succeed.
With ISO 9000, an organization can
identify the root of the problem, and
therefore find a solution.
By improving efficiency, profit can be
maximized.

 As a broad range of companies implement

the ISO 9000 standards, a supply chain with
integrity is created.
Each company that participates in the
process of developing, manufacturing, and
marketing a product knows that it is part of
internationally known, reliable system.
Not only do businesses recognize the
importance of the ISO 9000, but also the
customer realizes the importance of quality.
And because the consumer is most
important to a company, ISO 9000 makes
the customer its focus.

ISO 9000 Principles

1. A Customer Focus
As stated before, the customer is the primary
focus of a business.
By understanding and responding to the needs of
customers, an organization can correctly targeting
key demographics and therefore increase revenue
by delivering the products and services that the
customer is looking for.
With knowledge of customer needs, resources can
be allocated appropriately and efficiently.
Most importantly, a businesss dedication will be
recognized by the customer, creating customer
loyalty. And customer loyalty is return business.

2. Good Leadership
A team of good leaders will establish
unity and direction quickly in a
business environment.
Their goal is to motivate everyone
working
on
the
project,
and
successful leaders will minimize
miscommunication
within
and
between departments.
Their role is intimately intertwined
with the next ISO 9000 principle.

3. Involvement of people
The inclusion of everyone on a business team is
critical to its success.
Involvement of substance will lead to a personal
investment in a project and in turn create
motivated, committed workers.
These people will tend towards innovation and
creativity, and utilize their full abilities to
complete a project.
If people have a vested interest in performance,
they will be eager to participate in the continual
improvement that ISO 900 facilitates.

4. Process approach to quality

management
The best results are achieved when activities
and resources are managed together.
This
process
approach
to
quality
management can lower costs through the
effective use of resources, personnel, and
time.
If a process is controlled as a whole,
management can focus on goals that are
important to the big picture, and prioritize
objectives to maximize effectiveness.

5. Management system
approach

Combining management groups may seem like a

dangerous clash of titans, but if done correctly can
result in an efficient and effective management system.
If leaders are dedicated to the goals of an organization,
they will aid each other to achieve improved
productivity.
Some results include integration and alignment of key
processes.
Additionally, interested parties will recognize the
consistency, effectiveness, and efficiency that come
with a management system.
Both suppliers and customers will gain confidence in a
businesss abilities.

6. Continual Improvement
The importance of this principle is paramount,
and should a permanent objective of every
organization.
Through increased performance, a company can
increase profits and gain an advantage over
competitors.
If a whole business is dedicated to continual
improvement, improvement activities will be
aligned, leading to faster and more efficient
development.
Ready for improvement and change, businesses
will have the flexibility to react quickly to new
opportunities.

7. Factual approach to decision

making
Effective decisions are based on the
analysis
and
interpretation
of
information and data.
By making informed decisions, an
organization will be more likely to
make the right decision.
As companies make this a habit, they
will be able to demonstrate the
effectiveness of past decisions.
This will put confidence in current and

8. Supplier relationships
It is important to establish a mutually
beneficial supplier relationship; such a
relationship creates value for both parties.
A supplier that recognizes a mutually
beneficial relationship will be quick to
react when a business needs to respond
to customer needs or market changes.
Through close contact and interaction
with a supplier, both organizations will be
able to optimize resources and costs.

ISO 14000 - Environmental

management
ISO 14000 is a series of international standards
on environmental management.
It provides a framework for the development of
an environmental management system and the
supporting audit programme.
The ISO 14000 family addresses various aspects
of environmental management.
It provides practical tools for companies and
organizations looking to identify and control their
environmental impact and constantly improve
their environmental performance.

 ISO 14001:2004 and ISO 14004:2004

focus on environmental management
systems.
The other standards in the family
focus on specific environmental
aspects such as life cycle analysis,
communication and auditing.
The main thrust for its development
came as a result of the Rio Summit
on the Environment held in 1992.

History of ISO 14000

As a number of national standards
emerged (BS 7750 being the first),
the International Organization for
Standardisation (ISO) created a
group to investigate how such
standards might benefit business and
industry.
As a result this group recommended
that an ISO committee be created to
create an international standard.

ISO 14001
ISO 14001 is the corner stone
standard of the ISO 14000 series.
It specifies a framework of control for
an
Environmental
Management
System
against
which
an
organization can be certified by a
third party.

Other ISO14000 Series

Standards
Other standards in the series are actually guidelines,
many to help to achieve registration to ISO 14001.
These include the following:
ISO 14004 provides guidance on the development
and implementation of environmental management
systems
ISO 14010 provides general principles of
environmental auditing (now superseded by ISO
19011)
ISO 14011 provides specific guidance on audit an
environmental management system (now
superseded by ISO 19011)

 ISO 14012 provides guidance on qualification

criteria for environmental auditors and lead
auditors (now superseded by ISO 19011)
ISO 14013/5 provides audit program review
and assessment material.
ISO 14020+ labeling issues
ISO
14030+
provides
guidance
on
performance targets and monitoring within an
Environmental Management System
ISO 14040+ covers life cycle issues, of all
these, ISO14001 is not only the most well
known, but is the only ISO 14000 standard
against which it is currently possible to be
certified by an external certification authority.

ISO and the environment (ISO

14001:2004)
ISO 14001:2004 sets out the criteria for an
environmental management system and can be
certified to.
It does not state requirements for environmental
performance, but maps out a framework that a
company or organization can follow to set up an
effective environmental management system.
It can be used by any organization regardless of its
activity or sector.
Using ISO 14001:2004 can provide assurance to
company management and employees as well as
external stakeholders that environmental impact is
being measured and improved.

Benefits of using ISO

14001:2004
Reduced cost of waste management
Savings in consumption of energy
and materials
Lower distribution costs
Improved corporate image among
customer and the public

BS EN ISO 14001
ISO 14001 was first published in 1996 and specifies
the actual requirements for an environmental
management system.
It applies to those environmental aspects which the
organization has control and over which it can be
expected to have an influence.
ISO 14001 is often seen as the corner stone
standard of the ISO 14000 series. However, it is not
only the most well known, but is the only ISO 14000
standard against which it is currently possible to be
certified by an external certification authority.
Having stated this, it does not itself state specific
environmental performance criteria.

This BS EN ISO 14001 standard is applicable to

any organization that wishes to:
implement,
maintain
and
improve
an
environmental management system
assure itself of its conformance with its own
stated environmental policy (those policy
commitments of course must be made)
demonstrate conformance
ensure compliance with environmental laws
and regulations
seek certification of its environmental
management system by an external third
party organization
make a self-determination of conformance

Total Quality Management

systems
Total quality management is a
management system for a customer
focused organization that involves all
employee in continual improvement
of all aspects of the organization.
TQM uses strategy, data, and
effective communication to integrate
the quality principles into the culture
and activities of the organization.

Evolution of Quality
Management
Inspection: Selvage, sorting, grading,

blending,
corrective actions, identify sources of non-conformance
Quality Control: Develop quality manual, process
performance data, self-inspection, product testing, basic
quality planning, use of basic statistics, paperwork
control.
Quality Assurance: Quality systems development,
advanced quality planning, comprehensive quality
manuals, use of quality costs, involvement of nonproduction operations, failure mode and effects
analysis, SPC.
TQM: Policy deployment, involve supplier & customers,
involve
all
operations,
process
management,
performance
measurement, teamwork, employee
involvement.

Demings view of a production

as a system

Principles of TQM
Is Customer focused: Whatever you do for quality
improvement, remember that ONLY customers
determine the level of quality. Whatever you do to
foster quality improvement, training employees,
integrating quality into processes management,
ONLY customers determine whether your efforts
were worthwhile.

 Insure
Total
Employee
Involvement:You must remove fear
from work place, then empower
employee.
you
provide
the
proper environment.
Process
Centered:Fundamental
part of TQM is to focus on process
thinking.
Integrated system: All employee
must know the business mission and
vision.
Strategic
and
systematic

 Continual Improvement: Using

analytical, quality tools,and creative
thinking to become more efficient
andeffective.
Fact Based Decision Making:
Decision making must is ONLY on
data, not personal or situational
thinking.
Communication:
Communication
strategy, method and timeliness
must be well defined.

Strategies to develop
TQM

TQM elements approach: Take key business

process and use TQM Tools to foster improvement.
Use quality circles, statistical process control,
Taguchi method, and quality function deployment.
The guru approach: Use the guides of one of the
leading quality thinker.
Organization model approach: The organization
use benchmarking or as model for excellence.
Japanese total quality approach: Companies
pursue theDeming prize use Deming Principles
In other words, TQM requires the involvement of
management, workforce, suppliers, and customers,
in order to meet or exceed customer expectations.

TQM practices
Considering the practices of TQM as discussed in six
empirical studies; Cua, McKone, and Schroeder (2001)
identified,
the nine common TQM practices as:
cross-functional product design
process management
supplier quality management
customer involvement
information and feedback
committed leadership
strategic planning
cross-functional training
employee involvement

Eco-labeling
Ecolabels and Green Stickers are labelling systems for
food and consumer products.
Ecolabels are often voluntary, but green stickers are
mandated by law in North America for major appliances
and automobiles.
They are a form of sustainability measurement directed
at consumers, intended to make it easy to take
environmental concerns into account when shopping.
Some labels quantify pollution or energy consumption
by way of index scores or units of measurement;
others simply assert compliance with a set of practices
or minimum requirements for sustainability or
reduction of harm to the environment.

 Ecolabelling systems exist for both food and

consumer products.
Both systems were started by NGOs but
nowadays the European Union have legislation
for the rules of ecolabelling and also have their
own ecolabels, one for food and one for
consumer products.
At least for food, the ecolabel is nearly identical
with the common NGO definition of the rules for
ecolabelling.
Trust in the label is an issue for consumers, as
manufacturers or manufacturing associations
could set up "rubber stamp" labels to
greenwash their products.

Information at green label

Green Labelling might include
information on,
Embodied carbon
Sustainability of raw materials
Embodied (virtual) water
Ethical farming methods
Ethical labour schemes
Use of natural ingredients


Oeko-Tex Standard 100

Responsibility for the Oeko-Tex Standard 100

is shared between the 17 test institutes which
make
up
the
International
Oeko-Tex
Association, which has branch offices in more
than 40 countries worldwide.
The criteria catalogue which forms the basis
for the tests for harmful substances is based
on the latest scientific findings and is
continually updated; the human ecological
safety of the textiles tested are more farreaching every year.

 The test criteria and the related test

methods are standardized on an
international level and are widely
included as guidance in terms and
conditions of purchase and delivery
right through to the retail sector.
With a total of over 51,000
certificates issued for millions of
different individual products, and over
6,500 companies involved worldwide,
the Oeko-Tex Standard 100 has
become the best known and most

 The OEKO-TEX Standard 100 is an independent

testing and certification system for textile raw
materials, intermediate and end products at all
stages of production.
Examples for items eligible for certification:
Raw and dyed/finished yarns,
raw and dyed/finished fabrics and knits,
ready-made articles (all types of clothing, domestic
and household textiles, bed linen, terry cloth items,
textile toys and more).
OEKO-TEX testing for harmful substances always
focus on the actual use of the textile.
The more intensive the skin contact of a product,
the stricter the human ecological requirements to be
met.

Testing for harmful substances

includes:
illegal substances
legally regulated substances
known harmful (but not legally
regulated) chemicals
as well as parameters for health care

International Association for Research

and Testing in the Field of Textile Ecology
The following institutes currently belong to the
International Association for Research and Testing in the
Field of Textile Ecology (Oeko-Tex):
AITEX, ASQUAL,
CENTEXBEL
CENTROCOT,
CITEVE
CLOTEFI S.A / ETAKEI
CSIR
INNOVATEXT
NISSENKEN,
Oko-Tex Association,
Oeko-tex

Product classes
The test costs depend on which of the four OekoTex product classes the product falls under
I = baby products (up to age three - 36 months)
II = products having skin contact (blouses, shirts,
underwear)
III = products having no skin contact (coats, lined
cloths)
IV = furnishings (table wear, funiture coverings,
curtains, textile flooring, mattresses)
The greater the contact with the skin, the more
stringent the requirements.

Certification
If all components of a textile comply with the
requirements of the Oeko-Tex criteria catalogue
without exception, the textile manufacturer
receives certification and is entitled to use the
Oeko-Tex label to mark the products in the shops.
The Oeko-Tex certificate is issued for a period of
one year and can be extended subject to further
successful testing.
In order to ensure ongoing compliance with the
test criteria, the authorised Oeko-Tex Institutes
carry out control tests every year on a minimum
of 15% of all certificates issued on Oeko-Tex
products available in the shops.

THE END