Sewing Machine

A sewing machine is a mechanical

device that joins layers of fabric by
using thread in a manner, similar to
manual sewing machine.

Classification
Two Types of sewing machine:
Domestic
Industrial

Industrial Sewing Machine

Lockstitch
SNLS
DNLS
Zigzag
Embroidery
Button Sewing
Bartack

Chainstitch
Single Chain
Double Chain
2/3/4 thread
overlock
5/6 Thread
Overlock/Compoun
d Sewing

Lock Stitch Sewing Machine

Thread Stand
It is used to
accommodate
sewing threads.

Foot Pedal
Used with foot to
control sewing
machine speed.

Hook Set
It is a device in
which bobbin and
bobbin case are
fitted

Bobbin Case
Bobbin case holds
the bobbin. It
controls the
tension of bobbin
thread.

Throat Plate
To provide a
smooth, flat
surface over which
the fabric passes
as successive
stitches are
formed. It has a
hole for the needle
to pass through,as
well as lines that
serves guides

Feed Dog
Move the fabric along
by a predetermined
amount b/w successive
stitches.

Functions of Feed Dog

Make the sewing product mover per stitch.
Can change amount to move and forms
stitches suitable for the sewing product.
Stretch stitching or gathering stitching can be
performed by means of feed mechanism.
Prevent of puckering, gathering can be
performed.

Number of teeth (rows)

Less number of teeth (rows) is better for sharp curve
stitching
More number of teeth (rows) is better for straight
feeding, feed force and stability of material
Feed Dog is located at the side of throat plate, feeding at
overlapped is improved
Feed Dog is located at front and rear of needle entry is
likely better to feed materials such as knit

Presser Foot
Stabilizes material to
sew on the surface
of throat plate
Presses the material
so that material are
not lifted when the
needle comes out of
material
Make material
contact with teeth of
feed dog

Hand Lifter
Used to lift the
presser foot by
hand

Presser Foot Regulator

To adjust the foot
pressure according
to the type of
fabric.
High foot pressure
causes uneven
feeding & feed dog
marks.

Knee Lifter
Lifts the presser
foot by knee.

Presser Bar
It holds the presser
bar.

Tension Post
Adjust the needle
thread tension so
that the stitches
are formed in the
approximate center
of the cloth.

Finger Guard
This is provided in
the front to
prevent any injury
to the fingers.

Oil Window
To monitor
presence or
absence of oil

SPI Regulator
Used to regulate
the stitch per inch

Back Tack Lever

To form stitches in
reverse direction.

Bobbin Winder
The function of
bobbin winder is to
fill the empty
bobbins.
In direct drive, it is
on the top of
machine & in
others it is on the
right side of
machine

Drop Feed

Most standard feed

mechanism.
Feed material with lower
feed dog only.
Uneven material feeding is
likely to occur due to
Bottom Feed.
Sharp curve stitching can
be easily performed and
material handing is easy.

Differential Bottom Feed

Bottom Feed
Mechanism.
Feed Dog is divide
into front and rear.
Feed Mechanism is
possible to
intentionally stretch
material.
Suitable for sewing
elastic knit

Variable Top Feed

Bottom Feed
combined with
variable top feed.
Possible to prevent
sewing slippage or
gathering

Needle Feed
Feed Mechanism which
Needle Bar moves in
synchronization with
Bottom Feed.
Feed Force is Strong,
feed material more
precisely.
Uneven material
feeding is reduced.
Stitch shrinking due to
thread tightness is
likely to occur.

Unison feed
Feed force of this
mechanism is most
superior.

Largely used for

extra heavy-weight
materials

Puller Feed
Roller located in
the rear of presser
foot.

Pull material
during sewing.

Uneven material
is reduced

Functions of a Sewing m/c Needle

Produce a hole in the material for the
thread to pass through.
To form a loop which can be picked
up by a hook or looper
To pass the needle thread through
loop formed by looper other than
lockstitch machines

Sewing Machine Needle

Parts of a machine sewing
needle

Parts
Shank
Upper thick part of a needle
Inserted in the machine acts as
support to needle
Shoulder
Intermediate between shank and the
blade

Blade
Area from the bottom of the shank to the point.
It contains groove, scarve, eye and point of the
needle.
Can be gradually tapered along its length to reduce
the friction.
Long Groove
It is in the side of needle leading to the eye.
Protective channel in which thread is drawn down
during stitch formation.
Depth shoud match thread diameter.

Short Groove
This groove is towards the hook or looper
Extends a little above and below the eye
Assists in formation of loop in the needle
thread
Eye
Hole extending through the blade.
Shape of the eye is critical

Scarf
Cut across face of the needle just
above the eye.
Enables close setting of hook or
looper
Point
The point of the needle is the first
contact with the fabric and responsible
for how the needle pierces the fabric.

Why to choose a correct needle?

Fabric Damage
Skipped Stitch
Yarn Breakage
Puckering
Seam Grinning
Needle Breakage

To Choose a Correct Needle

Fabric Type
Seam Type
Thread Type

Needle Size
Metric Size/NM size
Related to diameter of needle
above scarf
Measurement in millimetersx
100

Types of Needles
Cutting Points
Have sharp tips which cuts through the
fabrics
Points are of various shapes
Not used for woven or knitted fabrics
Cloth Points
Have a round crossection

Needle Size Chart

Metric System

Singer System

60

65

70

10

75

11

80

12

85

13

90

14

100

16

110

18

120

19

Cloth Point Needles

Set Point- The shape of the tip of
needle is slightly cone shaped
Ball Point- The shape of the tip of
needle is ball shape

 Knitwear cannot be sewn with a set

point needle as interlooping threads
are often hit and pierced by the
needle
Ballpoint needle pushes the yarn
aside at the time of penetration thus
avoiding needle damage.

Sewing Thread
A small diameter yarn/twisted strand,
usually treated with a surface coating
intended to be used to stitch

Wrong choice of thread results in:

Thread breakage
Needle Problems
Puckering
Stitch Holes
Fabric Damage

Sewing Threads
Fibre Type: Cotton, Silk/SyntheticPolyester, Viscose, Polyamide, Acrylic
Construction: Twist Direction,
Multifilament threads, Corespun
threads
Finish: Lubrication to provide
protection from needle heat, Rot or
mildew resistant,waterproof finishes,
flame resistant.

How to choose a sewing thread

Core spun threads -cotton wrapped
polyester thread is suitable for all
types of fabrics
Fine cotton or silk thread for very
shear fabrics. Silk is more elastic than
cotton
Polyester thread is most suitable for
synthetic fabrics but it appears shiny

Sewing Problems
Can be categorized in to three Kinds
Problems of Stitch Formation
Puckering Problem
Damage along stitch line

Problems of stitch formation

Slipped Stitch: Hook or looper is not
picking up loop in the needle thread
Causes of slip stitching:
Loops are not consistent
Bent needle
Incorrect needle size
Incorrect thread tension
Poor material control

 Staggered Stitch: When yarns in the

fabric deflect the needle away from a
straight line of stitching giving a poor
appearance.
Cause
In very hard, woven fabrics

 Unbalanced Stitch: When tension of

needle and bobbin is not proper the
threads do not interlock in the middle
of fabric
Variable Stitch density: Insufficient
foot pressure in a drop feed system,
causes uneven feeding of the fabric
through the machine

Puckering Problem
Puckering: It is a wrinkled appearance
along a seam in otherwise smooth
fabric.
Various causes:
Fabric Structure
Incorrect Thread
Seam Construction
Tension
Mismatched Patterns
Feeding Problem

Machine Bed
The bed of a sewing m/c is that part of
a m/c frame on which the fabric rests
while the fabric is being sewn

Types of Machine Bed

Flat Bed
Cylinder Bed
Feed off the Arm Bed
Raised Bed
Post Bed

Flat Bed
Cloth Plate is mounted
horizontally on the bed
Flat surface provides a
suitable surface for easy
manipulations
Allows manipulation of fabric
on both sides of needle
Most common bed type

Raised Bed
Bed plate is raised from the
machine surface
Facilitates assembly of pre
sewn parts, Accessories
Trims the edge of fabric in
front of needle

Feed Off the Arm

U shaped with one end of
the U under Sewing Head
Used for closing a tube eg
sewing inseams of Jeans

Cylinder Bed M/c

Features Narrow,
Horizontal Column as
oppose to a flat base
Allows fabric to pass under
and around the column
Cylinder Bed Dia 5-16 cm
Sewing Cylindrical Pcs such
as cuffs, gems etc.

Post Bed
Increased Working Height
Used for sewing of 3D
products such as shoes,
hats
Post makes it easier
working on tight corners
and curves