Dyeing And

Printing

Warm-up Activity

Dyeing & Printing

color is one of the most significant factors in the appeal &
marketability of textile products
manner in which color is added to a textile and the
chemical nature of the colorant contribute to products
appearance
performance
rate of response to fashion change
quality
cost

Dyes

Natural dyes are dyes or colorants derived from plants, invertebrates, or

minerals. The majority of natural dyes are vegetable dyes from plant
sources, for example:- Indigo. The dyes that are obtained from animal
sources are called Cochineal, and those that are got from minerals are
Ocher.
Historically, natural dyes were used to color clothing or other textiles, and by
the mid-1800's chemists began producing synthetic substitutes for them. By
the early part of this century only a small percentage of textile dyes were
extracted from plants. Lately there has been increasing interest in natural
dyes, as the public becomes aware of ecological and environmental
problems related to the use of synthetic dyes. Use of natural dyes cuts
down significantly on the amount of toxic effluent resulting from the synthetic
dye process.

Natural dyes
Dyes obtained from natural sources such as
vegetables, animals and minerals. These
are difficult to obtain and are very expensive
Vegetable dyesThese are obtained from the leaves ,flowers
,fruits,bark,and branches of plants and
trees.
They are obtained from jamun, henna
turmeric, saffron blue plants etc.

Animal dyesDyes obtained from insects, fishes

etc. This dye is very expensive.
Mineral dyesThese are obtained from minerals .

Tyrian purple(fish)

Synthetic dyes
Synthetic Dyes
Synthetic dyes are classified based upon their
chemical composition and the method of their
application in the dyeing process.
Acid Dyes
A class of dyes used on wool, other animal fibers,
and some manufactured fibers. Acid dyes are not
used on cotton or linen . Acid dyes are widely
used on nylon when high washfastness is
required. These dyes are cheap and lustrous.

 Basic (Cationic) Dyes

Basic dyes are water-soluble and are mainly used to dye
acrylic fibers. They are mostly used with a mordant. A
mordant is a chemical agent which is used to set dyes
on fabrics by forming an insoluble compound with the
dye. With mordant, basic dyes are used for cotton, linen,
acetate, nylon, polyesters, acrylics and modacrylics.
Other than acrylic, basic dyes are not very suitable for
any other fiber as they are not fast to light, washing or
perspiration. Thus, they are generally used for giving an
after treatment to the fabrics that have already been
dyed with acid dyes

Neutral Dyes
These dyes do not have the qualities of both acid
and basic dyes.
Direct (substantive) Dyes
these dyes are used on cotton , linen , cotton,
rayon and artificial fibers. these fibers can be dyed
easily and at low cost, but colors are not fast and
are not fast and durable. These colors can not
resist sunlight and washing. Normally cheap
fabrics are dyed with these dyes

Sulphur Dyes
These dyes are used on cellulose fabrics because
excessive alkalies are used in coloring with these dyes .
These dyes have sulphur and are expensive. Dull
colors like navy blue, brown,black,etc are coloured with
these dyes.

Vat Dyes
Any type of fabric can be dyed with vat dyes. These
colors are fast and durable and can resist light, sweat,
acid, base, washing, etc. Therefore fabrics which are
washed regularly are colored with these dyes.

 Developed Dyes
These Dyes Are Also Used For Dyeing
Cotton, Linen, Rayon And Artificial Fibres.
Special Chemical Processes Are Used On
These Dyes For Fast Coloring. These
Dyes Are Expensive.

Stages of dyeing
In skein dyeing the yarns are loosely wound into hanks or
skein and then dyed. The yarns have good dye
penetration, but the process is slow and comparatively
more expensive.
Stock dyeing is dyeing raw fibers, also called stock,
before they are aligned, blended, and spun into yarns.
Fabric dyeing, also known as piece dyeing, is dyeing
fabric after it has been constructed. It is economical and
the most common method of dyeing solid colored fabrics.
The decision regarding color can be made after the fabric
has been manufactured. Thus, it is suitable for quick
response orders. Dye penetration may not be good in
thicker fabrics

Methods of dyeing
Simple dyeing- In this method,the fabric to be dyed is
dipped in clean water.It is now dipped in coloured solution
after squeezing.For fast colouring of the fabric ,it is boiled
in the coloured solution.The cloth is dyed evenly in this
method.
Cross Dyeing: This is a very popular method in which
varied color effects are obtained in the one dye bath for a
cloth which contains fibers with varying affinities for the dye
used. For example, a blue dyestuff might give nylon 6 a
dark blue SHADE, nylon 6, 6 a light blue SHADE, and have
no affinity for polyester area unscathed or white

 Batik Dyeing: This is one of the oldest

forms known to man. It originated in Java.
Portions of the fabric are coated with wax
so that only un-waxed areas will take on
the dye matter. The operation may be
repeated several times and several colors
may used for the bizarre effects. Motifs
show a mlange, mottled or streaked effect,
imitated in machine PRINTING.

Tie and dyeTie-dye is a way of creating patterns of

color by folding, tying, stitching, crumpling or
otherwise preparing the FABRIC to inhibit
the flow of the dye into the folds of the
fabric. The pattern of the folds and where
the colors are squirted determines the final
design.

Printing

Printing is that process

in which fabrics are
imparted colors in
specific designs

Methods of printing
Block Printing:
The blocks are usually made of wood and the design is
hand carved, so that it stands out in relief against the
background surface. The print paste is applied to the
design surface on the block and the block then pressed
against the fabric. The process is repeated with different
designs and colours until the pattern is
complete.Blockprinting is a slow, laborious process and
is not suitable for high volume commercial use. It is a
method still practised in the oriental countries where
market exist for the types of printed fabrics produced.

 Roller printing:
roller printing has traditionally been preferred for long
production runs because of the very high speeds possible.
It is also a versatile technique since up to a dozen different
colours can be printed simultaneously. The basic roller
printing equipment, consists of a number of copper faced
rollers in which the design is etched. There is a separate
printing roller for each colour being printed. Each of the
rollers rotates over the fabric under pressure against an
iron pressure roller. A blanket and backing cloth rotate
over the pressure roller under the fabric and provide a
flexible support for the fabric being printed. A colour doctor
blade removes paste or fibres adhering to the roller after
contact with the fabric. After the impression stage the fabric
passes to the drying and steaming stages.

Screen Printing :
This Type Of Printing Has Increased Enormously In Its Use
In Recent Years Because Of Its Versatility And The
Development Of Rotary Screen Printing Machines Which
Are Capable Of Very High Rates Of Production. An
Additional Significant Advantage Is That Heavy Depths Of
Shade Can Be Produced By Screen Printing, A Feature
Which Has Always Been A Limitation Of Roller Printing
Because Of The Restriction To The Amount Of Print Paste
Which Can Be Held In The Shallow Depth Of The
Engraving On The Print Roller. Worldwide, Some 61% Of
All Printed Textile Fabric Is Produced By The Rotary
Screen Method And 23% By Flat Screen Printing.

Stencil printing
It is just like screen printing .in this method
the desired designs are made on stencil of
a metal plate or wax paper.differnet
stencils for different colours are made as
per the colours used in the design.stencil
is placed on the fabric and colors are
sprayed with the help of a brush
.thereafter stencils are removed and the
desired design on the fabric is obtained.

 Resist Printing:
A printing method in which the design can be
produced: (1) by applying a resist agent in the
desired design, then dyeing the fabric, in which
case, the design remains whitealthough the rest
of the fabric is dyed; or (2) by including a resist
agent and a dye in the pastewhich is applied for
the design, in which case, the color of the design
is not affected bysubsequent dyeing of the fabric
background.

 Duplex Printing:
A method of printing a pattern on the face and
the back of a fabric with equal clarity.
Discharge Printing:
In white discharge printing, the fabric is piece
dyed, then printed with a paste containing a
chemicalthat reduces the dye and hence
removes the color where the white designs are
desired. In colored discharge printing, a color
is added to the discharge paste in order to
replace the discharged color with another shade.