Documenti di Didattica
Documenti di Professioni
Documenti di Cultura
Coastal Processes
Typical beach profile and coastal zone
- Beaches dissipate wave energy and are constantly
adjusting to the wave environment (shoaling, wave
breaking, sand bar & surf zone, Fig. 4-1, pp80)
Littoral Transport (sediment transport)
- Long shore transport (parallel to the shoreline,
long shore current)
- Offshore-onshore transport (perpendicular to the
shoreline)
structures
Coastal Erosion
Coastal Erosion
Hwy 87
Texas Coast
Infrastructure
Property
Environment
Beach Nourishment
Economic
value of
Beaches
Coastal Processes
Sediment Transport
Coastal Structures
Break waters: (rubble mound, sheet pile, stone asphalt,
Dolos, concrete cassions, floating structures
(coastal & offshore))
Jetties & Groins (normal to the shorelines)
Sea walls
Bulkheads, Revetments, G-tubes
Sand Bypassing (continue the littoral process; passive
and active)
Ports, Harbors and Marinas
Breakwater
Waterway
Navigation
Jetties
RUBBLE
MOUND
BREAKWATER
Design
Considerations
Dolos
Jetties at the
entrance of
Tweed River
Laboratory Research
Research Experience
for Undergraduates
(REU) Program
sin 2 sin 1
Snells law:
Deep-2
Deep-1
Shallow-1
Wave Refraction
1
kh
In intermediate water depth C g
nC
k 2 sinh 2kh
C
1
In deep water
Cg
, n
2k 2
2
In shallow water C g gh C , n 1
E 0 C g 1b1 2C g1b1
H1
H0
E1
E0
H1
H0
E1
KS KR
E0
KR
b0
b1
Ks
C p0
2C g 1
Wave Runup
Wave runup is important to the design of the
height of coastal structure, such as seawalls
and breakwaters.
Hunt (1959)
R
tan
for tan 0.1
H
H / L0
where R is the wave runup.
H is the wave height
see Fig. 4-24 (p121)
(old edition Fig. 4-15 (p95))
Sediment Transport
s gd
Buoyancy index: B
1
where s the specific weight of a sphere
3
s
2
Sediment Transport
s gd s3
Buoyancy index: B
1
2
s
In general,
1, that is, the sediment particle is
Reading Assignment:
Sediment Transport & Scour
Littoral Transport (sediment transport in
coastal or littoral zone)
Coastal Structure (jetties, groins,
breakwater, sand-bypass & G-tubes)
Dredging
Reading Assignment:
Sediment Transport & Scour
Littoral Transport (sediment transport in
coastal or littoral zone)
Coastal Structure (jetties, groins,
breakwater, sand-bypass & G-tubes)
Dredging