Presented By

Adnan Mazari
adnanmazari86@gmail.com
TUL,CzechRepublic

History:
1790:The first workable sewing machine was
invented and patented by the British inventor
Thomas Saint., Limitation:thread has to go all the
way in the fabric with needle and mechanical fingers
were used,
1830 : French tailor, Barthelemy Thimonnier
(1793-1857), patented the first practical
sewing machine.
1834 :The earliest idea for a double-thread sewing
machine came from Walter Hunt (1796-1860) of New
York in 1834.
In 1851, Issac M. Singer (1811-75) patented the first
rigid-arm sewing machine.

1856:The sewing machine combination was formed

consisting of Singer,Howe,Wheeler& Wilson and
Grover &Baker,
Other known names in the sewing machine history
are Allen Wilson(reciprocating
shuttle),Wheeler(Hook),Miller(button hole)

Machine:
A machine is a thing that helps a person
to do something by using or changing
energy
Definitions of sewing :
Sewing or stitching is the fastening of cloth, leather,
furs, and other flexible materials, using needle and
thread.
Sewing Machine:
Any mechanical or electromechanical device used for
fastening of cloth, leather, furs, and other flexible
materials, using needle and thread.

Sewing machines Parts

Sewing Machine Basic Mechanism

Feed Dog and Bobbin Mechanism

Classification of Sewing machines

Sewing machines can be classified or categorized
by
type of use
(leather,button hole,carpet,etc ..)

Bed shape
(cylinder bed,flat bed,post bed, etc..)

stitch formation

Classification of Stitch (Stitch Type):-

Class 100 - Chainstitch

a : Needle thread slacks at the
position
where needle slightly goes
up from its
lowest position,
and looper catches the
needle
thread which has become like a
loop.
b : Needle comes off the cloth
and the
cloth is fed.Looper
rotates and removes
the thread which
the looper caught
before while
pulling in the needle
thread.
Needle bar continues going up
and
needlethread take-up lever lifts the

c : Looper continues rotating and

pulls
in the thread in the centre of
the looper
and thread take-up lever
tightens the
thread which the
looper removed before.

d : Cloth feed is finished and a stitch

is
formed.
Needle penetrates the cloth to
continue to
next stitch,

Stitch Type - 101

Approximate Seam length:Thread
Consumption ratio = 1:5
Single thread chainstitchs are often used for
temporary stitching

Class 200 - Hand Stitch

This type of stitch is formed with one thread. It is a
machine made version of traditional hand stitching
sometimes referred to as Saddle Stitch.
Applications of Hand Stitch
Decorative stitch of suits or the like Kimono (Japanese
national dress) Button sewing of coats, suits, etc.
(FBS-340N-1)

3) Class 300 Lockstitch

3)

Approximate Seam:Thread consumption ratio =

1:2.5 for stitch type 301

Applications of Lockstitch

General sewing ,2-needle lockstitch (LH-3128-7),

Zigzag stitch (LZ-2288N-7), Plain stitch, Decorative
stitch, Bartacking (LK-1900), Lockstitch buttonholing
(LBH-790RS-1), Button sewing (LK-1903/BR25), Pocket
sewing (APW-196) and Pattern sewing (AMS-210D).

4) Class 400 - Double Chainstitch

For class 401.

Approximate Seam:Thread consumption ratio = 1:5.5

Stitch Type 407

Approximate Seam:Thread consumption ratio = 1 : 20

Applications of Double Chainstitch

General sewing (MH-481-5) Rubber tape attaching,
Lace attaching to underwear, swim-suit, etc., Eyelet
buttonholing (MEB-2688), Side seam (MS-1190), Belt

Class 500 - Over-edge Chainstitch

Stitch Type 503:Approximate Seam:Thread
consumption ratio = 1:10.5

Cloth which is largely expanded, blind over-edging, prevention of fray

at material end (ASN-397/serging machine), Overlock sewing machine
(MO-3904, Cylinder-bed overlock sewing
machine (MOC-3914).

Class 600 - Covering Chainstitch

Approximate Seam:Thread consumption ratio =
1:20.0
This type of stitch is formed with 4 threads: two
needle threads (A) and (A1) ; one looper thread (B);
and one cover thread (C). Loops of thread (A) and
(A1) are passed through loops of thread (C) already
cast on the surface of the material, and then through
the material where they shall be interlooped with
loops of thread (B) on the underside.

Sewing Needles,
A sewing needle is a long slender
object with a pointed tip. The first
sewing needles were made of bone
or wood; modern ones are
manufactured from high carbon
steel wire, nickel- or gold plated for
corrosion resistance. The highest
quality embroidery needles are
made of platinum.
1) Shank
2) Shaft
3) Groove
4) Scarf

SHANK:
The upper thick part of a sewing machine needle is
called the shank. This part of the needle is inserted in
the machine. Home sewing machine needles are
composed of a flat and a round side, to assist in
always having the needle in the correct position.
SHAFT:
The shaft of a sewing machine needle is the area
from the bottom of the shank to the point. The shaft
contains the groove, scarf, eye and point of the
needle.
GROOVE:
A groove is in the side of the needle leading to the

SCARF:
The scarf is a groove out of one side of the needle.
The
scarf allows the bobbin case hook to intersect
with the upper thread and form stitches.
EYE:
The eye of the needle carries the thread so the
machine can keep forming stitches.
POINT:
The point of the needle is the first contact with the
fabric and responsible for how the needle pierces the
fabric.

TYPES OF SEWING NEEDLES

1.
Hand sewing needles.
2.
Machine sewing needles.
3.
Special purpose needles.

Sharps are needles used for general sewing. They have a sharp
point, a round eye and are of medium length. The difference between
sharps and other sewing needles can mainly be seen in their length.

Embroidery needles, also known as Crewel needles, are

identical to sharps but have a longer eye to enable easier threading of
multiple embroidery threads and thicker yarns.

Betweens or Quilting needles are shorter, with a small rounded

eye and are usually used for making fine stitches on heavy fabrics such
as in tailoring, quilt making and other detailed handwork.

2. MACHINE NEEDLES
The most common machine needles for standard
running stitch are universal &ball point needles,
Category according to use are
1. stretch needles
2. Jeans needles denim needles
3. leather needles

SPECIAL PURPOSE NEEDLES:

DETERMINATION OF NEEDLE SIZE

Stitch Fault

References
Grace Rogers Cooper ,the Invention of Sewing
Machines,Washington 1968
Grace I. Kunz , Ruth E. Glock,Apparel
Manufactruing ,Sewn product analysis,,4rth Edition,
www.howstuffworks.com

Thankyou