Presentation outline

INTRODUCTION

FUNCTION

MECHANISM

CHEMISTRY OF DURABLE PRESS FINISH

Formaldehyde cross linking agents or resin
Non-formaldehyde cross linking agents or resin
Miscellaneous cross linking agents or resins

METHOD OF APPLICATION
The pre cure process
The post cure process
The immersion process
garment process or product process
Metered addition process/ Vapor phase process

Durable press in wool

Durable press in silk

Coneprest process

Advantages in durable press with corresponding suitability

Disadvantages of permanent press finish with possible remedies

Major trademarks of durable or permanent press finish

Quality performance standards and care

Health hazards

Test for crease resistance in textile

Test for permanent press finish in fabric

Test for the presence of formaldehyde in sample

INTRODUCTION

Permanent press forms an essential part of easy to care finishes or resin

finishes which are anti crease finish, wash and wear finishes, durable
press finishes and soil release finishes.

Durable press or permanent press finishes are required to provide

pressed-in creases and stop formation of sharp creases during ironing.

The creases formed should last daily wash care routines

The technically correct name for such finishes is cellulosic anti-swelling

or cellulosic cross linking or resin finish

FUNCTION

To incorporate easy care feature in cotton, linen and

regenerated cellulose materials so that they do not require
frequent ironing as this finish keeps them free from creases.

To incorporate required/necessary
crease in garments along with
crease resistance finish.

MECHANISM
cause of formation of creases are:
Swelling due to moisture absorption
Bending
Folding
Pressing

CREASE RETENTION THEORY

Crystalline and amorphous regions are bonded by hydrogen bond

Bending, folding, pressing or swelling produces stress

some of the hydrogen bonds at the boundary of the amorphous and

crystalline region breaks as such bonds are fairly weak

hydroxyl group in amorphous region approach other hydroxyl group and when
they come close to each other they get bonded by hydrogen bonds again

newly formed bonds prevent unfolding of fabric and a crease is formed

METHODS TO REMOVE CREASES

Hot ironing

Prevention of Hydrogen bond

Formation by blocking the
hydroxyl group

Removal of hydroxyl group

to prevent formation of
Hydrogen bond

CHEMISTRY OF DURABLE PRESS

FINISH
The finish is imparted in following two ways namely:
EXTERNAL
Incorporation of polymerized
finish in the porous structure of
fiber so that water penetration
is blocked.
INTERNAL
Reaction of cross linking agent
with hydroxyl group of adjacent
cellulose molecule

CROSS LINKING AGENTS

The cross linking agents are

resins which are applied in the
form of solutions on viscose are
called precondensates.

Glass resin finish

Produce full, soft and supple hand.

Gives permanent and more
precisely durable finish.
Absorption and adsorption

Petroleum resin

Polyester resin

Polyester resin

Terpene resin

Its never done with the help of gums or starches.

Raspberry gum

Edible starches

CLASSIFICATION OF CROSS LINKING AGENTS

FORMALDEHYDE RESIN

Urea-formaldehyde (U/F)
Melamine-formaldehyde (M/F)
N,N-dimethylol-4,5-dihydroxyethylene
urea (DMDHEU)

NON-FORMALDEHYDE RESINS

N,N-dimethyl-4,5-dihydroxyethylene urea
(DMeDHEU)
1,2,3,4- Butanetetracarboxylic acid

MISCELLANEOUS CROSS LINKING AGENTS

di methylol ethylene or
propylol urea
di glyoxal urea
triazons
urons
carbamates
di epoxides
di so cyanates

METHOD OF APPLICATION
The most common method for application of permanent
press finish is pad-dry-cure.
saturated with resins,
thermoplastic polymers etc..

Dried

Heat curing
Resin coating on fiber glass cloth

THE PRE-CURED PROCESS

Saturate the fabric with
resin cross linking solution

Cut, sew and press

Dry

Cure in a curing oven to form cross links

between molecular chains.

SUITABILITY:
Shirting, draperies, cotton/polyester blends.

THE POST-CURED PROCESS

Saturate with resin
cross linking solution

Dry

Cure the pressed item in a curing oven

at 300 to 400F

Cut and sew items

press shape with
Hot-head press

SUITABILITY:
slacks, skirts, cotton/polyester blends.

THE IMMERSION PROCESS, GARMENT

PROCESS or PRODUCT DIP PROCESS
Immerse product or
garment in finishing
agent
Cure in curing oven at 300F
for 5 to 15 minutes

Dry

Modify hand and

performance

Press desired features into garment

with special hot head press

SUITABILITY:
Fashion apparel of 100% cotton.

METERED ADDITION PROCESS

Spray product with finishing agent
and continue tumbling

Cure in curing oven at 300F for

5 to 15 minutes

Modify hand and performance

Press desired features with

special hot head press.

SUITABILITY:
Fashion apparel of 100% cotton.

VAPOR PHASE PROCESS

Dye and finish the product

Apply finish in vapor form to the

product in a chamber and cure it.

Press desired features with special

hot head press

Modify hand and performance

SUITABILITY:
Cotton and other natural fibers.

SUMMARY
APPLICATION
METHED

ADVANTAGE

Pre-cure

High
productivity

Post-cure

Excellent
retention

Garment padding

Softest handle

DISADVANTAGE

process Poor crease retention

crease Garment manufacturer
need to keep curing
equipment
Garment manufacturer
need
to
keep
application (padding)
and curing equipment

DRY CURING

WET CURING

It needs less time.

The
time
needed
comparatively more.

It requires high temperature.

It require low temperature.

Loss of tear strength and Good tear strength

abrasion resistance
abrasion resistance
High dry
angle.

crease

is

and

recovery Lower dry crease recovery

angle.

Lower wet crease recovery High wet

angle.
angle.

crease

recovey

DURABLE PRESS IN WOOL

Durable press finish is imparted to wool to provide good resilience when it is
wet and also to control shrinkage. The wool finishing process is as follows:
Flat fabric treated with 1 to 2 % of durable press resin

steamed for 3 to 5 minutes

sprayed with more durable press resin
pressed to achieve a permanent crease effect.

shrink resistant resin is mixed with dry cleaning solvent and dry-cleaned
resin is cured in item for 3 to 7 days before being laundered.

DURABLE PRESS SILK

Since silk wrinkles easily when wet, permanent press finish

is imparted for better appearance

Poly carboxylic acid is used as resin to give the required

finish.

CONEPREST PROCESS

Its a trademark of Cone Mills which has been accepted as

the name of a finish by virtue of its long use.

Its the process by which pre cured fabrics are made into
garments.

Where creases are desired a substance is

sprayed to temporarily inactivate the crease
resistance finish.
After setting the crease the garment is pressed
under pressure to reactivate the finish.

ADVANTAGES OF PERMANENT PRESS

WITH CORRESPONDING SUITABILITY
EFFECT

SUITABLE TEXTILE

Easy care and wrinkle resistance

woven

Dimensional stability

Knitwear

Durable press

Formal and leisure wear with some

demand, plise/pleated goods

Pile resilience

improved pile Pile fabrics

stand by better elastic resilience

Sheen and wash permanence of Calendared (chintzed) fabric
chintz

Permanent knitter (hand knitted) look Crushed fabric, a fashion trend similer
retention of irregular creases and to used look
wrinkles
Antipilling
Fixation

Knitwear of 100% cellulose

of

other

finishes

(eg

Fabric

with

low

warp

end

filling

stiffening with water soluble hand densities, knitted dress fabric, denims,
builders)

awnings, mattress duck etc.

Fixation of dyestuff and pigments

Cellulosic with direct and acid dyes,

pollycotton with reactive dyes, heat
transfer printing of cellulosics.

DISADVANTAGES OF PERMANENT PRESS

FINISH WITH POSSIBLE REMIDIES
GENERAL DISADVANTAGES

POSSIBLE REMEDY

Loss of abrasion, tear and ripping Wet condensation; liquid ammonia

strength

treatment, addition of silicones, PVA

etc.; polyurethane

Hard handling

Combination with softeners

Graying during washing

Combination with soil release finish

Less dilatable and elastic

Combination
elastomers.

with

silicones,

eg

CASE WISE DISADVANTAGES

POSSIBLE REMEDY

Release of large amount of formaldehyde Formaldehyde-free or low formaldehyde

finish
Reduction of light fastness

Selection of appropriate dyestuff, cross

linkers and catalysts

Shade change of dyed fabric

Selection of appropriate dyestuff, cross

linkers and catalysts

Yellowing in case its not dyed or Selection

fluorescent brightened

of

appropriate

catalyst,

fluorescent brightener and application

condition.

Objectionable odours, sometimes fish Selection of catalyst (no ammonium

smell

product), cross linkers, if necessary

washing.

Chlorine

retention,

causing

yellowing and strength loss

marked Selection of cross linking agents, use of

chlorine free washing

MAJOR TRADEMARKS OF DURABLE

OR PERMANENT PRESS FINISH
TRADEMARK
ALMI- set

MANUFACTURER
Amritex Div. Of United Merchants And Manufacturers,
Inc

Lifetime pressed

Amritex Div. Of United Merchants And Manufacturers,

Inc.

Coneprest

Cone Mills

Dan press

Dan Mills

Koratron

Koratron Co.

Penn Press

J. C. Penny Co.

Perma Press

Sears Roebuck & Co.

Press Free Cotton

McGregor

QUALITY PERFORMANCE STANDARDS

AND CARE
General care guidelines are as follows for permanent press
items:

Wash items frequently because resins have a strong

affinity for oil and grease easily penetrates and builds up

Pretreat stains, collars, and cuffs by use a spot removal

agent.

Keep wash loads small to minimize wrinkles

Avoid setting in wrinkles with heat, keep washing and

drying temperatures cool.

HEALTH HAZARDS
Formaldehyde used mostly for durable press finish is not
good for health because:

More than 1 ppm of formaldehyde causes a pungent

odor (threshold detection level by smell is 0.5 ppm).

It irritates mucous membrane, causes teary eyes,

induces cough and can lead to difficulties in breathing.

Skin contact with aqueous solution of formaldehyde or with

textiles that contain a high level of formaldehyde can give
rise to eczema and occasional allergic reactions.

It is a suspected human carcinogen.

TEST FOR CREASE RESISTANCE

The most common method which is as per standards and
specifications is ISO2313 test.

This crease recovery test can be carried with fabric while

in dry and as well as in wet stage.

The finish is called crease resistance in case the crease

recovery angle is 180 or more along with a shrinkage of
usually less than 5%.

The major steps for crease resistance test are

as follows:
Cut ten warp and weft wise samples going
diagonally on fabric
Fold sample horizontally and keep pressed
between two acrylic sheet templates under 1 kg
load for 5 min
Put the sample on graduated machine to measure angles of
recovery of crease while maintaining required temperature and
pressure

TEST FOR PERMANENT PRESS FINISHES

IN FABRICS

Its done with the help of AATCC 88C test method.

it tests retention of crease in fabric after repeated home

laundering.

The fabric with set in crease are washed and

dried by specified procedures.
The crease appearance is compared to
standards on 1-5 scale.

TEST FOR PRESENCE OF

FORMALDEHYDE IN FABRIC
The qualitative test method for the presence of free
formaldehyde in a fabric sample is as follows:
piece of fabric added to
2-3 ml of chromotropic acid or
100 ml of 72% sulphuric acid.
solution is heated carefully to not more than
100 C for 1 min
A red or violet colour in the solution indicates
the presence of formaldehyde.

BOOKS:

Finishes/ Finishing Process Understanding Fabric

Chemical Technology Of Textile Fiber

Chemical Finishing Of Textiles

Textiles- Sara J. Kadolph

Anna L. Langford

Understanding Textiles- P. G. Tortora

Textile finishing- R.S. Prayag