PANEL DISCUSSION 3

GIs for Market Differentiation, Reputation &

Quality An Insight

MUGA SILK OF ASSAM

SEPTEMBER 18, 2008

NEW DELHI

Muga Silk of Assam

MUGA Silk of Assam obtained GI protection
on July 20, 2006 (registered) under Classes
23, 24, 25, 27 and 31
Names and classification of goods under Section
11(3) of GI Act
Class 23: Yarns and threads, for textile use
Class 24: Textiles and textile goods, not included
in other classes ; bed and table covers

Muga Silk of Assam

Class 25 : Clothing , footwear, headgear
Class 27 : Carpets, rugs, mats and matting,
linoleum and other materials for covering
existing floors; wall hangings (non textile)
Class 31 : Agricultural, horticultural and forestry
products and grains not included in other classes;
live animals; fresh fruits and vegetables; seeds,
natural plants and flowers; foodstuffs for
animals, malt

Muga Silk of Assam

MUGA Silk (non-mulberry) is a product of
the Silkworm Antherea Assamensis endemic
to Assam peculiar to agronomic and
environmental conditions
The pupa of these silkworms feed on som
(Machilus bombycina) and sualu (Litsaea
polyantha) leaves that provides Muga the
unique golden yellow color
The natural golden color silk produced is
known for its glossy fine texture and
durability
MUGA possesses characteristics, reputation
and quality that are essentially attributable
to its geographical origin in Assam

Muga Silk of Assam

MUGA part of Axomiya communitys
traditional knowledge and know-how and
linked to tradition and antiquity and is part
of the communitys cultural expression.
The localness of the product is material to
the communities sustainable development
GI protection is capable of serving as a tool
for protecting traditional knowledge and
cultural expressions for the advancement of
indigenous women and rural people in
general

Muga Silk of Assam

GI Protection for Muga Silk of Assam
Proof of Origin (Historical Records)
Geographical Area
Uniqueness
Method of Production
Inspection Body

Yarn

Male
moth

Fabric

Cocoon

Female moth

Eggs

Pupa

Life cycle of
Muga Silk Worm
5th instar

1st instar

4th instar

3rd instar

2nd instar

Som plant

Soalu plant

GEOGRAPHICAL AREA

Quality & Characteristics of Muga

Unique method of cultivation and production

Color stability (everlasting)
Golden colour increases with each wash
Tensile Strength (4.53g/dn); strongest amongst
all silks
UV Absorption capacity (>80%)
Durability (over 50 years)
Acid resistant (resistant to concentrated
Sulfuric acid)
Comfortable to wear both in summer and
winter
expensive

Quality & Characteristics of Muga

Thermo stability (355 degrees C to 365
degrees C by DSC)

IDENTIFICATION OF MUGA
1. BURN TEST:
The burn test is the best way to confirm the purity
of silk. Burning of silk will leave a powdery
ash and will extinguish itself when the flame is
removed just like wool. The easy way to tell
silk and wool apart in the burn test is the
smell. Where wool have the smell of burning
hair, the silk have a much more disagreeable
smell.
2. Chemical Test:
The fibre of Muga,
Tussar and Bombyx mori have
been treated with Conc. Sulphuric
acid. The fibre of Bombyx mori.
dissolved immediately and
the colour become yellowish. The fibre of muga silk has been
partially dissolved without changing the colour whereas the colour
of Tussar fiber has changed to purple and dissolved partially

INSPECTION BODY
The proposed GI inspection system will be
specific and deal with
1. Traceability
2. Geographical origin and geographical
boundaries
3. Specific soils
4. Specific breeds or plant varieties
5. Specific production criteria or methods
6. Specific know how
7. Particular colour and appearance
8. Specific labeling

INSPECTION BODY
AUTHORITY
Department of Sericulture, Govt. of Assam
Representative Committee to be formed
weavers association
Relevant District Industry Officer
Representative of Sericulture
Department
PIC /ASTEC
Laboratory and Certification - Institute of
Advanced Studies in Science and
Technology, Assam

INSPECTION BODY
o Develop and adopt specified
requirements or standards
o

conformity assessments product

sampling

o Post-market surveillance
o Public outreach, information and
education
o Enforcement of GI

ECONOMICS OF MUGA
Total family of cultivators

= 27,878

Average cultivating area

of a family

= 0.3 Acre

Total area

= 7172 acres

Average Muga Yarn

Production per year

= 98 MT

For 2005 - 2006

= 104 MT

Value of Product @
Rs. 3,500/Kg

= INR 34.30 Cr

ECONOMICS OF MUGA
Annual Export of Muga Fabrics

Export started in 1997-98

Export value in the
year of 2005-06

= INR 235.62 Lacs

Export value
in the year 2006-07

= INR 300.00 Lacs

Export value
in 2007 - 2008

= INR 221.60. Lacs

(28104 sq. metres)

Country of Export

= JAPAN, USA, EU

Products

= Home Furnishing

Source: ARTFED Guwahati

OUTSTANDING ISSUES
Indications which identify a good as originating
in a territory or a region, where a given quality,
reputation or other characteristic of the good is
essentially attributable to its geographical
origin
1. Why Muga Silk of Assam? 94% of Muga is
from Assam but 6% from West Bengal and
Meghalaya. Central Silk Board encouraged
Muga cultivation all over the country!
2. No system of meaningful and effective quality
control and certification Capacity Building
3. Lack R&D and technology up gradation
without compromising traditional methods
4. Ineffective Marketing and vision

WAY AHEAD
CHAMPAGNE Comit Interprofessionnel du vin
de Champagne was founded by an Act of 12
April 1941 for safeguarding the harmonic
development of the trade

A restricted and non extendable region

A small vineyard # 33 000 ha
A parceled vineyard : > 280 000 parcels
Small vineyards (average < 2 ha)

Strict and qualitative production requirements (unique

& traditional production conditions)
A restricted yield (determined each year)
A constraining production process (pressing,
process, ageing)

A temporary and precarious Right to use the

designation

WAY AHEAD
CHAMPAGNE
The collective valuation of a unique name
A single designation
Numerous trademarks
A worldwide success that benefits the whole
industry and region
A collective protection
Co-handled by the administration (French
and European)
Collective and mutualized protection system
A system that protects both producers and
consumers
Collective investments
R&D
Promotion and education

WAY AHEAD
SCOTCH WHISHKY
Scotch Whisky Act 1988 and the Scotch
Whisky Order 1990
describes how Scotch Whisky must be
manufactured, ingredients to be used, and
that Scotch Whisky must be distilled and
matured in Scotland, the minimum period for
that maturation being three years
the legislation prohibits the manufacture of
whisky in Scotland except Scotch Whisky
sets a minimum alcoholic strength of 40%
(the same as under the current EC Regulation
(EEC) No. 1576/89 for whisky)
Civil, criminal and border measures remedies
to stop breaches of the law

WAY AHEAD
Obtaining the GI is an opportunity
GI protection could trigger higher Market
reward standardization of quality, embedded
messages about quality consumers in niche
markets may be willing to pay a Premium
Accumulated Goodwill has to be aided by
niche marketing, brand development and
extracting value
Muga is a cottage industry in Assam generating additional employment, increasing
income and retaining population in these areas
Traditional Knowledge And Know-how
Bangladesh Rural Advancement Committee
(BRAC) & its chain of retail handicraft stores
called AARONG - access to resources,
support their entrepreneurship and empower

WAY AHEAD
1) control the quality of Muga through a

testing and certification system

2) promote and protect the name Muga
3) promote R & D
4) promote and organize the marketing of the
products
5) promote a sustainable development

THANK YOU
Ms. Krishna Sarma
Managing Partner
CORPORATE LAW GROUP
1106-1107, Kailash Building,
26, Kasturba Gandhi Marg,
New Delhi-110001
Tel : +91-11-43621000 (100 Lines)
Tel : +91-11-23357731 (Direct )
Fax : +91-11-23357721
Email: krishnasarma@clgindia.com
www.clgindia.com