BASIC TOOLS FOR

ELECTRONIC
TROUBLESHOOTING

 Troubleshooting is a form of problem solving, often

applied to repair failed products or processes. It is a

logical, systematic search for the source of a problem so
that it can be solved, and so the product or process can
be made operational again.
Troubleshooting is needed to develop and maintain
complex systems where the symptoms of a problem can
have many possible causes. Troubleshooting is used in
many fields such as engineering, system administration,
electronics, automotive repair, and diagnostic medicine.

 Troubleshooting requires identification of the malfunctions or

symptoms within a system. Then, experience is commonly used

to generate possible causes of the symptoms. Determining the
most likely cause is a process of eliminating potential causes of
a problem. Finally, troubleshooting requires confirmation that the
solution restores the product or process to its working state.
In general, troubleshooting is the identification of diagnosis of

"trouble" in the management flow of a corporation or a system

caused by a failure of some kind. The problem is initially
described as symptoms of malfunction, and troubleshooting is
the process of determining and remedying the causes of these
symptoms.

Soldering Tools

Basic Tools

Hand Tools

Multimeter

Soldering Tools
The only tools that are essential to solder are a soldering

iron and some solder. There are, however, lots of

soldering accessories available.
Different soldering jobs will need different tools, and
different temperatures too. For circuit board work you will
need a finer tip, a lower temperature and finer grade
solder.

There are several things to consider when choosing a soldering iron.

1. Wattage
2. adjustable or fixed temperature
3. power source (electric or gas)
4. portable or bench use

Wattage
It is important to realise that higher wattage does not

necessarily mean hotter soldering iron.

Higher wattage irons just have more power available to
cope with bigger joints. A low wattage iron may not keep
its temperature on a big joint, as it can lose heat faster
than it can reheat itself.
Therefore, smaller joints such as circuit boards require a
lesser wattage iron - around 15-30 watts will be fine.
Audio connectors need something bigger - recommend 40
watts at least.

Temperature
There are a lot of cheap, low watt irons with no

temperature control available. Most of these are fine for

basic soldering, but if you are going to be doing a lot you
may want to consider a variable temperature soldering
iron. Some of these simply have a boost button on the
handle, which is useful with larger joints, others have a
thermostatic control so you can vary the heat of the tip.
If you have a temperature controlled iron you should start
at about 315-345C (600-650F). You may want to
increase this however - prefer about 700-750F. Use a
temperature that will allow you to complete a joint in 1 to 3
seconds.

Power Source
Most soldering irons are mains powered - either 110/230v

AC, or bench top soldering stations which transform down

to low voltage DC. Also available are battery and gas
powered. These are great for the toolbox, but you'll want a
plug in one for your bench. Gas soldering irons lose their
heat in windy outside conditions more easily that a good
high wattage mains powered iron.

Portability
Most cheaper soldering irons will need to plug into the mains.

This is fine a lot of the time, but if there is no mains socket

around, you will need another solution.
Gas and battery soldering irons are the answer here. They are
totally portable and can be taken and used almost anywhere.
They may not be as efficient at heating as a good high wattage
iron, but they can get you out of a lot of hassle at times.
If the user have a bench setup, should be using a soldering
station. These usually have a soldering iron with heatproof
stands, variable heat, and a place for a cleaning pad. A good
solder station will be reliable, accurate with its temperature,
and with a range of tips handy it can perform any soldering
task you attempt with it.

Solder Lead
The most commonly used type of solder is rosin core. The

rosin is flux, which cleans as you solder.

The other type of solder is acid core and unless the user
are experienced at soldering. Acid core solder can be
tricky, and better avoided for the beginner.
Rosin core solder comes in three main types - 50/50,
60/40 and 63/37. These numbers represent the amount of
tin and lead are present in the solder.

The amount of tin and lead are present in the solder.

Screwdriver
Most electronic work is relatively small, so you don't

need huge, heavy-duty screwdrivers. But just get a good

assortment of small and medium-sized screwdrivers,
both flat-blade and Phillips head.

Pliers
User will occasionally use standard flat-nosed pliers, but

for most electronic work, the user will depend on needlenose pliers instead, which are especially adept at working
with wires bending and twisting them, pushing them
through holes, and so on. Most needle-nose pliers also
have a cutting edge that lets user to use them as wire
cutters.

Wire Cutters
Although user can use needle-nose pliers to cut wire, the

user will want a few different types of wire cutters at their

disposal as well. Get something heavy-duty for cutting
thick wire, and something smaller for cutting small wire or
component leads.

Wire Strippers
Try removing the insulation from two pieces of wire one

with wire cutters and the other with wire strippers. Most
likely the user will notice the crimping on the one stripped
with wire cutters, but not the one stripped with wire
strippers. That crimp has created a weak spot in the wire
that may eventually break.

Multimeter
A multimeter is an instrument used to check for AC or DC

voltages, resistance and continuity of electrical components,

and small amounts of current in circuits. This instrument will
let the user to check if there is voltage present on a circuit.
By doing so, a multimeter can help the user achieve a variety
of useful tasks.

Note :
The descriptions and pictures that follow are specific to
the Fluke 73 Series III Multimeter, but other multimeters
are similar.

Fluke 73 Series III

Digital Multimeter

Safety Information
Be sure the test leads and rotary switch are in the correct

position for the desired measurement.

Never use the meter if the meter or the test leads look
damaged.
Never measure resistance in a circuit when power is
applied.
Never touch the probes to a voltage source when a test
lead is plugged into the 10 A or 300 mA input jack.
To avoid damage or injury, never use the meter on circuits
that exceed 4800 watts.

 Never apply more than the rated voltage between any

input jack and earth ground (600 V for the Fluke 73).
Be careful when working with voltages above 60 V DC or
30 V AC rms. Such voltages pose a shock hazard.
Keep your fingers behind the finger guards on the test
probes when making measurements.
To avoid false readings, which could lead to possible
electric shock or personal injury, replace the battery as
soon as the battery indicator appears.

Input Jacks

The black lead is always plugged into the common

terminal. The red lead is plugged into the 10 A jack when

measuring currents greater than 300 mA, the 300 mA jack
when measuring currents less than 300 mA, and the
remaining
jack
(V-ohms-diode)
for
all
other
measurements.

Range

The meter defaults to autorange when first turned on. You

can choose a manual range in V AC, V DC, A AC, and A

DC by pressing the button in the middle of the rotary dial.
To return to autorange, press the button for one second.

AC and DC Voltage

Resistance

Turn off the power and discharge

all capacitors. An external voltage

across a component will give
invalid resistance readings

Diode Test

Continuity Test
This mode is used to

check if two points are

electrically connected.
It is often used to
verify connectors. If
continuity
exists
(resistance less than
210
ohms),
the
beeper
sounds
continuously.

Current
To avoid blowing

an input fuse,
use the 10 A
jack until you are
sure that the
current is less
than 300 mA.
Turn off power to the circuit. Break the circuit. (For circuits

of more than 10 amps, use a current clamp.) Put the meter

in series with the circuit as shown and turn power on.