Fragrance, Flavors &

Food Additives
The Perfume Industry
Fragrances
- perfume, cologne and toilet water
The change in the manufacture of these fragrances has resulted from a number of factors, for
increase in the number of available raw-material ingredients, both natural and synthetic;
a variety of new types of products requiring Fragrances;
innovations in packaging,
broadened channels and methods of distribution, including door-to-door selling; and
phenomenal growth in mens toiletries.
Perfume
- any mixture of pleasantly odorous
substances incorporated in a suitable
vehicle.
Perfumare
- Latin word for perfume
- To fill with smoke

Further discoveries lead to the
manufacture of Ointments and
fragrant unguents.

Avicenna, discovered steam distillation of volatile oils, During his search for medical potions, he found
that flowers boiled in an alembic with water gave up some of their essence to the distillate.

Ren, perfumer to Catherine de Medici. Invented many new confections to delight the queenly
nose and in his spare time, was one of the cleverest and deadliest of the famous de Medid
poisoners.
Persons who contributed in the perfume industry:
Many of the finest perfumes are imported from France. Classical colognes are at least 200 years
old.
Cologne. Germany
OLD SPICE
POLO BLUE
USES:

Fragrances are used industrially in masking, neutralizing, and altering the odor of various
products.
creating a distinctive aroma for normally odorless objects.
EX. Cashmere shawls manufactured in Scotland are given the Hindu touch by a trace of
patchouli oil applied to them.
Odors are used successfully to increase customer appeal, though they are not essential to
the performance of the products to which they are added.

Aromatics or Reodorants
- used to disguise foul or unwanted smell in products

Constituents
Formerly, practically all the products used in perfumery were of natural origin. Even when
humans first started synthesizing materials for use in this field, they endeavoured to duplicate the
Finest in nature.
The constituents of perfumes are: the vehicle or
solvent, the fixative, and the odoriferous elements.
Lily of the valley

Violets
Lilac
Vehicles
highly refined ethyl alcohol

helps to project the scent it carries,
fairly inert to the solutes,
and not too irritating to the human skin.

Prefixation
Method used to removed the slight natural odor of
alcohol.


Fixatives
defined as substances of lower volatility than the perfume oils, which retard and even up
the rate of evaporation of the various odorous constituents.

TYPES OF FIXATIVES
Animal Fixatives



Ambergis
Muscone
Civetone
Castor or Castoreum
Hard Resins
Benzoin

Gums
Reisonous Fixatives
-from plants
Myrrh resin
Labdanum
Soft Resins
All these substances, when being prepared for perfume compounding are dissolved
and aged by methods passed down by word of mouth.

Methods:
Tincture
-If solution is brought about in the cold,
Infusion
-If heat is required to give solution.

Labdanum
-The most important of the soft gums.





In early organic chemical history an acid isolated from this gum became known
as benzoic acid, from which the names of all benzo compounds of today are derived.
Benzoin
-The most important of the hard gums.
- influenced by this substance.
- from Java
- called luban jawi.
Essential-Oil Fixatives.
clary sage,
vetiver,
patchouli,
orris, and
sandalwood.

These oils have boiling points higher
than normal (28.3 to 290C).

Other synthetics:
Synthetic Fixatives.
glyceryl diacetate (239C),
ethyl phthalate (295c),
benzyl benzoate (323C)
ODOROUS SUBSTANCES
Most odorous substances used in perfumery come under three headings:
essential oils,
isolates, and
synthetic or semisynthetic chemicals


Essential Oils
defined as volatile, odoriferous oils of vegetable origin obtained by enfleurage or
solvent extraction and essential oils recovered by distillation.


The compounds occurring in essential oils can be classified as:







Volatile oils can be recovered from plants by the following:

1. Expression
2. Distillation which is used to obtain the majority of oils
3. Extraction and Volatile Solvents
4. Enfleurage
5. Maceration
6. Solvent extraction most technically advance process
1. Esters
2. Alcohols
3. Aldehydes
4. Acids
5. Phenols

6. Ketones
7. Esters
8. Lactones
9. Terpenes
10. Hydrocarbons

Distillation

Preparation:
Flowers and grasses are normally charged into the still without preparation.
Leaves and succulent roots and twigs are cut into small pieces.
Dried materials are powdered.
Woods and tough roots are sawed into small pieces or mechanically chipped.
Seeds and nuts are fed through crushing rolls so as to crack them.
Berries are charged in the natural state

Stills:
Thin lined copper or stainless steel
2300 L capacity
Condensers of various sorts
Separator
Removable baskets
construct the still with a perforated false plate lying just above the bottom.
Underneath this false bottom are steam coils both closed and perforated.


Expression
Expression by machine is the method used commercially. Of the hand-pressed processes, the
sponge process is the most important. Since it produces the highest-quality oil..

Enfleurage
The enfleurage process is a cold-fat
extraction process used on a few types
of delicate flowers which yield no direct
oil at all on distillation. In the case of
jasmine and tuberose, the picked
flowers continue to produce perfume
as long as they are alive. The fat, or
base consists of a highly purified mixture
of 1 part tallow to 2 parts lard, with 0.6%
benzoin added as a preservative.
EXTRACTION WITH VOLATILE SOLVENTS.

The most important factor in the success of this practice is the selection of the
solvent. The solvent must:

Selective
Have a low boiling point.
Be chemically inert to the oil.
Evaporate completely without leaving any odorous residue
Be low-priced and, if possible non-flammable.

Highly purified petroleum ether is
-most successful solvent for extraction

Benzene
-when employed, it is specially purified by repeated crystallization.





SYNTHETICS AND SEMISYNTHETICS USED IN PERFUMES
AND FLAVORS.

Synthetics
made by chemical synthesis, especially to imitate a natural product.

semi-synthetics
-constituents that are chemically synthesized from an isolate or other natural starting
materials
Isolates are pure chemical compounds whose source is an essential oil
or other natural perfume material. EX: eugenol from clove oil, pinene
from turpen tine, anethole from anise oil, and linalool from linaloa oil.
CONDENSATION PROCESSES
Coumarin
occurs in tonka beans and 65 other plants, but the economical source is the synthetic.
employed as a fixative and enhancing agent for essential oils and tobacco products,
a masking agent for disagreeable odors in industrial products.
Perkin reaction.




EXAMPLES: vanillin, ionone and terpentiles

These examples are presented under the most important chemical conversion.

Diphenyl oxide, or ether
-largely used in the soap and perfume industries



Ionone
- Posess the so called violet type of odor



Cinnamic aldehyde has a cinnamon odor. As it oxidizes in air to cinnamic
acid, it should be protected from oxidation. Although this aldehyde is
obtained from Chinese cassia oils, it is synthesized by action of alkali upon
a mixture of benzaldehyde and acetaldehyde.

ESTERIFICATION PROCESSES,
Benzyl benzoate has a faint aromatic odor, boils at 323 to 324C, and is a
fixative and a flavoring material. It occurs naturally in balsams but is prepared
commercially by the esterification of benzoic acid with benzyl alcohol or by the
Cannizzaro reaction with benzaldehyde.

Two esters of salicylic acid (o-hdroxy benzoic acid)
-very important commercially in the perfume and flavoring industries .



Benzyl acetate (C6H5CHOCOCH3)
-Another widely used ester because of its low cost and floral odor.
- made by hydrolysing benzyl chloride.
Grignard Processes. Phenylethyl alcohol
has a roselike odor and occurs in the volatile oils
of rose, orange flowers, and others. It is an oily
liquid and is much used in perfume formulation.
Hydrogenation
Nitration Processes
Artificial musks comprise a number of products not identical with the natural
musk, which derives its odor from macrocyclic compounds.The reactions for the three
important commercial artificial musks are: