Painting and printing

Bandhani work involves tying and dyeing of pieces of cotton or silk cloth, The main colours used in Bandhani are yellow, red, green and black. Bandhani work, after the processing is over, results into a variety of symbols including, dots, squares, waves and strips. Bandhani pieces can be dyed by natural and artificial colors. The main colours used in Bandhani are natural. In fact all colours in bandhani are dark, no light color is used, and the background is mostly in black / red cloth. Bhuj and Mandvi of Kutch District of Gujarat State in India are well known for the finest quality of bandhani. Saurashtra region of Gujarat state in India are also known for the Bandhani work but the taste of bandhani is different from other district. Bandhani work is also done in Rajasthan state but having different types of colors and designs than the Kutch and Saurashtra of Gujarat. There are thousands of families are relying on this handicraft work in Gujarat and Rajasthan. This bandhani work is very attractive and used in many of the other garment accessories as well.

 What is Bandhani? Bandhani is a technique of tie and dye. As the name suggests, the technique of Tie and Dye involves two stages: tying sections of a length of cloth (silk or cotton) and then dunking it into vats of colour. The rainbow-tinged turbans of the Rajputs and the odhnis of their women are shaded by this method of resist dyeing. The term "bandhani" derives its name from the Hindi word Bandhan which means tying up. Bandhani is an ancient art practiced by people mainly of Rajasthan and Gujarat. Jaipur, Udaipur, Bikaner and Ajmer and Jamnagar are among the important centers producing odhnis, saris and turbans in bandhani. The wide variety was evolved over the centuries because of its close links with the religious and social customs of different people. Bandhani work involves tying and dyeing of pieces of cotton or silk cloth. The main colours used in Bandhani are yellow, red, green and black. Bandhani work, after the processing is over, results into a variety of symbols including, dots, squares, waves and strips. The main colours used in Bandhani are natural. In fact all colours in bandhani are dark, Rajasthan is one of the most important centers of the tie and dye textile. Each area, each caste and each tribe has its special designs.

 Tying of the border is a special process known as sevo bandhavo. The border is tied according to the desired pattern by passing the thread from one end to the other in loose stitch so as to bring the entire portion together by pulling the thread from one end. The border portion is then covered up. Some sarees have broad matching and contrasting borders. The same applies also to the pallus. Colors Used and Care The main colours used in Bandhani are yellow, green, red, pink, and black. The colors commonly used signify different things like - red, a symbol of marriage, saffron, a color worn by yogi who has renounced the world, yellow, which stands for spring and black and maroon, used for mourning. Bandhni material is sold folded and with the knots tied. One has to pull the folds apart for the knots to open. The payment is made according to the number of dots in the pattern. An intricate design in a sari would have approximately 75000 dots.

What is essential in bandhni is the minute and skillful manipulation of the fingers for tying, extensive knowledge of color schemes and skill in dyeing materials. It takes several years for a craftsman to perfect his skill. Bandhni saris and dupattas are available at most shops all over India but to get the authentic material, it is advisable to buy it from Rajasthan or Gujarat or their emporiums outlets in major cities around India. Tie and dye cloth is never too expensive but be warned that the colours always run. So if youve bought silk, its safer to get it dry-cleaned.

Major Centers Of Tie And Dye in India The centers of tie and dye fabrics, especially in Gujarat are Jamnagar in Saurashtra (the water in this area brings out the brightest red while dying), and Ahmadabad. The finest bandhni work of Rajasthan comes from Bikaner, Jaipur, Jodhpur, Barmer, Pali, Udaipur and Nathdwara. Rajasthan is well known for its leheriya pattern - literally meaning waves. These are harmoniously arranged diagonal stripes, which were originally, dyed in the auspicious colors of yellow and red.

 . Pochampalli is also one of the three main traditional yarndyeing centers in the country. The process of making bandhni (tie and dye) varies in Gujarat and Rajasthan. Even the patterns, designs and craftsmanship vary in both the regions. The craftsmen from Rajasthan are easily recognized because they grow a nail on their little finger to facilitate the lifting of cloth for tying or wear a small metal ring with a point. The Gujarati craftsmen prefer to work without these aids. The flow is much better when one works with one's bare hands as it assures no damage to the cloth. The dyeing and printing of textiles has become a highly developed craft in Gujarat. Bandhni, a form of tie-resist dyeing and patola are two outstanding examples of the Indian dyer's art.

Rajasthan laheriya

Latest design of bandhni

Batik Dyeing:

This is one of the oldest forms known to man. It originated in Java. Portions of the fabric are coated with wax so that only un-waxed areas will take on the dye matter. The operation may be repeated several times and several colors may used for the bizarre effects. Motifs show a mlange, mottled or streaked effect, imitated in machine printing.

Malaysian batik
History Batik is a famous handcraft and artworks in Malaysia for the creativity and innovations that translate the lives around human onto pieces of cloths. The discoveries of new batik making methods traditionally have begun since 15th century. In the early period, Malay communities have used potatoes and other indigenous equipments as block to design the batik paintings. Nowadays, modern technologies are used everywhere for massive production. In the Malay world, a batik called Batik Pelangi had been introduced since 1770s. Nowadays, many batik factories and home-made crafts are found in almost all states in Malaysia such as Langkawi, Kedah, Penang, Kelantan and Terengganu. (1) Malaysian Batik is batik textile art of Malaysia existing in almost all states in Malaysia. The most popular motifs used by batik artists or painters include leaves, flowers and abstracts.

Malaysian batik is mostly large floral motifs, light and vibrant in colouring. Malaysian batik depicting humans or animals are rare because Islamic practices forbid animal images and other pictures which are against sharia as decoration. However, the butterfly theme is a common exception. The Malaysian batik is also famous for its geometrical designs such as spirals. The method of Malaysian batik making is also quite different from those of Indonesian batik. (2) Batik was mentioned in the 17th century Malay Annals. The legend goes when Laksamana Hang Nadim was ordered by Sultan Mahmud to sail to India to get 140 pieces of serasah cloth (batik) with 40 types of flowers depicted on each. Unable to find any that fulfilled the requirements explained to him, he made up his own. On his return unfortunately, his ship sank and he only managed to bring four pieces, earning displeasure from the Sultan. For men, Batik can be worn at dinner functions. Even the ladies wear the fabric as formal dress, combining batik with modern fashion. The Malaysian government encourages civil servants to wear batik during the 1st and 15th day of the month Motif Motif is the decorative patterns used in the drawings and paintings of the batik. Motifs designs are developed into two main themes such as Motif Organik (organic) and Motif Geometrik (geometric). Motif Organik is based on the world nature such as awan larat (abstract), plants, flowers and animals. (1)

he cloth is repeatedly dyed and stampled with wax until the finishing step when the wax is boiled out of the cloth. It is hung to dry on a cloth Batik cap (pronounced chop) Batik by cap (pronounced "chop") or block (block) is a rapidly vanishing craft. It is produced entirely by hand in small family-owned "factories" in the state of Terengganu on the east coast of Malaysia. Both the rapid industrialization of the 1990s and economic crisis at the end of that decade have contributed to the decline in batik production. Silk-screen printing of batik motifs is faster and cheaper and it is considered more progressive. (3) Batik is a resist process employing wax and dye. The cap (pronounced "chop") method uses copper or zinc blocks dipped in melted wax and stamped onto twometer lengths of white cotton. Tesline and then folded the market. (3)

Royal stencil cremes

How to use transfer dyes to print on synthetic fabric

Did you know you can can dye, print and paint synthetic fabrics with transfer dyes? Well, you can and this morning I thought I would put together this tutorial on how to use a stencil technique to print on synthetic fabrics. These dyes are also known as disperse dyes and they are not difficult to use. You simply follow the instructions to dye fabric. What many people don't know is that you can use these dyes in printing techniques. For instance you can paint these dyes on paper and use a hot iron to transfer them to synthetic fabrics. This means you can make paper stencils easily and build up patterns and images on fabric. First mix the dyes in cold water. They do not disolve easily so stir them well. I use quite a heavy concentrate of one to two teaspoons of powder to a cup of water. Mix up a selection of colours Paint and print on paper. (I recycle and use the back of computer print outs) You can draw pictures, symbols, geometrical motifs or what ever pops into your head. Or create lots of papers that are simply drips and dribbles on the paper. If you place a sponge soaked with dye in a shallow tray you can use this as a stamp pad and print images on paper. You can use cotton reels, carved vegetables, bits of net, bottle corks, card board rings, and anything you can think of to create a print.

Block printing
Block printing is a traditional Indian way of decorating textiles. It has become widely used because it is an uncomplicated method that creates vibrant, colorful patterns. Chemical and artificial colors have replaced the traditional natural dyes used in block printing. The principal tints are red, yellow, blue and saffron. Block printing can be manufactured

Hand Block printing

Motifs of block printing

Method of Printing This method, though labourious, is actually quite simple and merely calls for precision. The cloth is laid out flat on a table or bench and a freshly dipped block is hand pressed on to the fabric to form a continuous, interlocking pattern. The block carries dye if the original colour of the cloth has to be preserved. If the cloth has to be dyed, the block is used to apply an impermeable resist a material such as clay, resin or wax to demarcate the pattern that is not to be coloured. Later, when the cloth is dyed, the pattern emerges in reverse. Traditionally, block-printing relied on the use of natural dyes and pigments, but now synthetic dyes have gained currency as they are cheaper. If you belong to the green brigade, stick to eco-friendly naturally dyed cloth.

BLOCK PRINTING
Dhamadka a village in Gujarat has many printers using predominantly madder root for red, rusty iron solution for black and indigo for blue. These fabrics are known as Ajrakh. The designs are geometric. Many states have block printing workshops using chemical dyes. However there are only small pockets of areas still using natural dyeing with age old recipes and local plant material. The earthquake in 2001 was devastating to wide areas of Gujarat. Many artisans were killed or had their homes and workshops destroyed. Hopefully aid is helping many to rebuild their former way of life and continue creating unique textiles.

In Rajasthan hand-woven cotton is printed with dye and then over printed with a mud compound used as a resist. When the mud dries the entire fabric is dyed in an Indigo bath. The areas covered with mud retain the red design while blue penetrates the remainder. The two designs on sale at this stall were called "young woman's cloth" and "old woman's cloth"

Masuliputnam in Andra Pradesh is the main centre of block printing where the fabric is known as Kalamkari. The cloth used generally is mill made cotton first bleached with cow dung and placed in the sun. The next step is to soak the cloth in a mixture of Myrobalan and milk. The Myrobalan contains tannic acid and acts as a mordant helping the dye stuffs to bond with the fiber. The buffalo milk, having high fat content, helps prevent the dye from running. Next the black outline is printed using a solution made with rusty iron soaked in sugar water and bran for several weeks. When the solution comes in contact with the myrobalan it turns black. The next step is printing on another mordant, alum. This bonds the red dye, Madder Root, after boiling, to the areas that receive the alum. These steps continue until all colours have been printed or brushed on. It is necessary to have a good water supply for washing after printing. It takes weeks to complete all the steps. My admiration goes to these artisans producing beautiful textiles with such time consuming techniques

Block printing on silk

Perrotine printing

Latest block printed design

Block And Stripe Print Saree - Indian Silk Saree

Block and strip printed sari

tissue silk hand block printed

hand loom silk block printed

sari crafted in block

Digital Fabric Printing

 Digital fabric printing is a relatively new technology with tons of applications. Technology Most commercially available fabric is rotary screen printed; each print run is typically several thousand yards. The high minimums are due to the cost and time required to prepare a unique set of screens, with each color in a design requiring a separate screen. The main advantage of digital printing is the ability to do very small runs of each design (even less than 1 yard) because there are no screens to prepare. The inkjet printing technology used in digital printing was first patented in 1968. In the 1990s, inkjet printers became widely available for paper printing applications you might even have one on your desk right now! The technology has continued to develop and there are now specialized wide-format printers which can handle a variety of substrates everything from paper to canvas to vinyl, and of course, fabric. The inks used in digital printing are formulated specifically for each type of fiber (cotton, silk, polyester, nylon, etc). During the printing process, the fabric is fed through the printer using rollers and ink is applied to the surface in the form of thousands of tiny droplets. The fabric is then finished using heat and/or steam to cure the ink (some inks also require washing and drying). Digitally printed fabric will wash and wear the same as any other fabric, although with some types of ink you may see some initial fading in the first wash.

Chiffon Embroidery Spray Printing

silk velvet tie dyed print ,spray print