Textile Cutters

Cutting Section:It is the second section of apparel manufacturing. The main purpose of this section is to cut the fabric according to the pattern of approved sample. In this section the following works are completeda) b) c) Marker Making Fabric Spreading Fabric Cutting

Cutting:Fabric cutting is the most important part of garment industry. Cutting different parts of garment apparel very carefully according to shape of pattern is called fabric cutting. Consistent fabric cutting is very important for perfect garments making. Requirement of cutting:

Precision of cut- To ensure the cutting of fabric aquirtly according to the line drown of the marker plan. Clean edge- By avoiding the fraing out of yarn from the fabric edge. Cutting edge must be smooth clean. Knife must be sharp for smooth or clean edge. Consistency in cutting- All the sizing safe of the cutting parts should be same of knife should be operated of the right angle of the fabric lay.

Methods of fabric cutting:There are mainly three methods of cutting are as follows: 1. Fully manual: Hand operated scissor 2. Manually operated power knife: Straight knife Band knife Round knife Die cutting Notcher Drill 3. Computerized methods of fabric cutting: Computer controlled knife cutting Cutting by Laser beam Cutting by Water jet Cutting by Plasma torch

Hand operated scissor:Scissors are used for cutting various thin materials, such as paper, cardboard, metal foil, thin plastic, cloth, rope and wire. Advantage of hand scissor: Almost every type of cloth are cut by scissor. Scissors are mainly used for cutting single ply fabric. Disadvantage of hand scissor: It takes huge time for fabric cutting It is impossible to cut the fabric lay of any height

Straight knife cutting:The most useful cutting machine in garments industry is the straight knife cutting machine. Advantage of straight knife: The knife is comparatively cheap & can be transferred from one place to another easily. Lay of higher height can be cut very easily. Suitable for large production rate as it is convenient to cut the lay of 10 inches height. Fabric can be cut from any angle.

Disadvantage of straight knife: Sometimes deflecting may occur due to the weight of the motor. Chance of accident is high.

Round knife:Round knife is mostly use for cutting the big parts of the garments pattern. Advantage of round knife: Round knife is widely used to separate the big parts and separate the blocks of fabric from relatively small height fabric lay.

Disadvantage of round knife: Not suitable for cutting very curved lines in higher number of lays as the blade does not strike all the piles simultaneously at the same point. Round knife is used only for straight line & lower number of piles. Not suitable for higher production. Possibility of accident is high. Difficult to cut small components.

Band knife:Band knife cutting machine is look like a wood cutter machine. Band knife is used for precession cutting small parts of garment.

Advantage of band knife: Band knife are used when a higher standard of cutting accuracy is required. Consistent cutting is possible by using the templates. Possible to cut in 90 angle of the fabric.

Disadvantage of band knife: Workload is high as machine is stationary & fabric is movable. It is not suitable for cutting large amount of garments pattern. Fabric wastages are very high.

Die cutting:Die cutting methods are generally used for cutting the small parts of garment. It works like dish. Advantage of die cutting: Die cutting is suitable for precession cutting of small parts of a garment. It is suitable for cutting the fabric in any angle &any shape. Especially suitable for knitted fabric. Disadvantage of die cutting: Die cutting method needs block of fabric lay. More fabric wastage. Die manufacturing cost is high.

Drill:Drilling is done for attaching darts and pockets in garment. Advantage of drill: It has heating arrangement. It has a system of yarn penetrating.

Disadvantage of drill: Burnt spot can come. The fabric become penetrated. Not suitable for loosely woven fabric

Computer controlled knife cutting: Advantage: Very active & fast cutting by computer controlled system. Suitable for very large-scale production. Speed of cutting can be controlled. Cutting defects are less than other. -Less labor cost. -No need of marker paper. Disadvantage: -Very expensive machine. -Higher maintenance cost.

Water jet cutting: Advantage: Very fast cutting operation Not require to sharp the blade Disadvantage: Capital costs are high Water is to be filtered and deionized

Laser cutting:Advantage: Very high speed cutting Suitable for single ply cutting Disadvantage: Not suitable for cutting multi layer of fabric Not suitable for synthetic fabric Possibility of burning

Textile Cutters Clothing Department,TUL CzechRepublic Presented by: Adnan Mazari

Conclusion:Cutting is most important section of Clothing production ,due to higher production and cost effective demand. The cutters of better efficiency and accuracy are reaching market everyday.