What is spreading

Spreading is the process of superimposing lengths of fabric on a spreading table, cutting table, or specially designed surface in preparation for cutting process The efficiency of spreading s determined by: set up and actual lay out of fabric Set up involves: loading and threading fabric through the spreader and positioning the machine and related equipment

Preparatory process for spreading..

Pattern making Grading (manual, miniaturization using a pantograph/ computerized) Making a lay plan ( half garment lay, whole garment lay, single size lay, multiple size lay: sectional lay, interlocking lay, mixed multi size lay)

Preparatory process for spreading..

Spreading table is covered with a layer of brown paper before spreading as it : 1) Protects the fabric from any rough spots on table surface, 2) enables the lay to be moved when needed 3) Prevents the base plate of the knife from distorting lower plies of the fabric At times layers of colored tissue paper is spread after a specific number of plies to segregate different shades of style/ identify quantitties of garment

Ways of spreading
Most common for of spreading is one in which all the plies of fabric in a lay are f same length under a complete marker plan It may contain different garments parts of same style of same size or Garment parts of various sizes are scrambled so that the garment pieces can be interlocked in the most commercial way Spread/ lay up is total amount of fabric prepared for a single marker

lay
Spread/ lay-up is total amount of fabric prepared for a single marker Height of a lay is limited by: 1) Vertical capacity of the spreader 2) Cutting method 3) Fabric characteristics 4) Size of the order to be cut the number of plies in a lay may vary from 1 to 300 Marker length is the length of spread

 Spreads of plaid fabric are presectioned into blocks so that the design of fabric can be perfectly matched before cutting to the shape of the pattern piece Presectioned pieces may also be garment parts knitted to specific finished lengths Presectioned pieces such as leather or other specialty fabrics may be spread and cut as a single ply or laid up and cut as multiple ply spread

Stepped lay
Stepped spread consists of plies of varied length spread at different heights A group of plies that are spread the full length of marker and another group of plies beginning at the section line Thy are used to adjust the quantity of piece goods to the number of garments to be cut from each section of the marker. It has excessive end loss as each ply is cut

Stepped lay
Stepped Spread is one in which a series of separate , usually single-size markers are positioned on top of varying number of plies It takes lesser time than a normal scrambled lay and is crucial when sewing room is to be fed with cut parts on time

Methods of spreading
Spreading by hand Spreading using a traveling machine

Spreading by hand
Fabric is drawn from package (if its a roll it can be mounted on a fame and carried along the table where the end is secured by weights and clamps) Fabrics commonly spread by hand are checks, crosswise stripes other regularly repeating patterns, repeat designs are placed at the interval of a garment length Stacking up is done and then the lay is spiked onto sharp spikes set vertically n the spreading table Cost of hand spreading is partly offset by the ability to cut fabric in bulk

Spreading using a traveling machine

1) 2) 3) 4) Carries a piece of fabric from one end of the spread to the other end. Its parts are: Frame/ carriage Wheels traveling in guide rails ate the edge of the table Fabric support Guide rollers to aid the correct unrolling of fabric

Spreading using a traveling machine: steps

1) 2) 3) 4) Operator clamps the free end of the fabric in line with the end of the spread Pushes he spreader to the other end Cuts off the ply in line with that end Clamps the beginning of the next ply Pushes the spreader to the other end

Spreading using a traveling machine

When the spreading machine dispenses fabric when traveling in one direction but returns to the first end without spreading to begin with the next ply, the return pass is called dead heading. The speed of traveling is generally quite high during dead heading..

Spreading using a traveling machine

1) 2) 3) More advanced machines have motors to drive the carriage, platform on which the operator rides ply cutting device with an automatic catcher to hold the ends of the ply in place 4) Ply counter 5) Alignment shifter actuated by photoelectric guides turntable 6) Direct drive on fabric support synchronized with the speed of travel to reduce or eliminate tension in fabric being spread

Microprocessor control of spreading machine

This enables the spreader to preset number of plies to be spread Emitting an audible signal once a selected number of plies has been spread Automatic turn tabling it enable face to face spread of fabrics like corduroys Controls the tension, fabric placement and rate of travel

Limitations of spreading..
Maximum fabric width handled is 2m ( or 3 m) Maximum weight of cloth that can be handled is 120 Kg Maximum speed of spreading is 100m/ min Maximum height of spread is 28 cm

Robotic spreading
When piece is finished spreader returns to an auto lifter at the end of the table, transfers the empty centre bar to the lifter which then advances the next piece to the spreader It repeats the process till the desired number of plies are spread. it requires auto sensing of the flaws or defects marked during fabric inspection prior to spreading. In case a defect is sensed: 1) Spreader comes to a halt 2) ply cutter cuts across the ply 3) Spreader reverses direction 4) Moves back to the nearest splice mark on the marker plan 5) Then continues spreading to the end of the ply

splicing
Its the process of overlapping cut ends (the end of one length of fabric and beginning of another) Its needed as one roll of fabric needs and a new roll is put into use and to rejoin the fabric after a defect is removed Splice points are indicated in the marker The amount of overlap at splice point varies with fabric characteristics and amount needed to cover all the pattern pieces related to the splice. Generally 1/ 2 inches but it can be more also. Excess overlap at the splice points leads to wastage of fabric as well as poor fabric utilization . Short fabric pieces may be used at splice pints to create short spread

Nature of fabric packages:

Open fabric rolled Tubular knitted fabric- rolled Folded fabric-rolled Folded fabric- cuttled Velvet-hanging Package in which the fabric is supplied o the cutting room is decided on the basis of the characteristics of the fabric and method of spreading

fabric packages :Open fabric rolled

On disposable cardboard core with diameter of 7-8 cm Single ply Suitable for machine spreading. When hand spreading is to be done two operators are required Width varies from less than 75cm to 3m esp. with knitted fabrics (limited by the requirement and the availability of types of knitting machines. The higher is the fabric width, the lesser is the cost of manufacturing of fabric)

fabric packages : Tubular knitted fabric- rolled

Sports shirts and t shirts Fabric fits the designed girth rather than vice versa Can be spread by machine

fabric packages :Folded fabricrolled

Woolen and woolen mixture fabrics of tailored garments Fabric is rolledon a cm thick board Not suitable for machine spreading Smaller width so can be spread manually on small spreading table manually by one operator Width of fabric varies from 70-80 cm in folded state

fabric packages :Folded fabriccuttled

Check fabrics Some tubular knits Aims to avoid distortions caused due to tight rolling Double folded fabric is folded backwards and forward in lengths of approximately 80-90 cm end of the piece being wrapped around the pile of folds or cuttle

fabric packages :Velvet-hanging

Wound on specially constructed frames to prevent piles from getting crushed

Spreading mode
Face to face F/F Face one Way F/O/W

F/F
It may be continuous Or piece cut and the roll turned at the end of each ply Symmetric , non directional fabrics are spread continuously which places alternate plies face to face/ back to back Continuous F/F spreading is faster and hence less costly as a fabric is laid out continuously

F/O/W
Its more time consuming and expensive as fabric must be cut at each end and the new end repositioned Using a turntable device which rotaes th fabric roll by 180 degrees at the end of each ply, the fabric can be spread from both sides Can be done in fabric face up/ face down . When the fabric faces up, the operator is able to monitor the imperfections

N/O/W
Asymmetric, directional because of structure or finish Nap faces the same direction on all pieces.. Otherwise the garment parts will appear in different shades

N/U/D
Fabrics that are non directional and symmetric can be spread face o face with nap running up or down are N/U/D

Pair spreading
If the fabric is cut at the end of each ply and the fabric roll is rotated Fabrics are positioned F/F and Nap one way One way design fabrics and to pair garment parts for sewing operation

Processes after spreading

After spreading the marker is placed on the top Marker may be held in place using an adhesive, weighted or stapled onto the fabric to prevent shifting during the cutting process At times large straight pins as deep as the spread is used to keep the marker in place For computer controlled cutting the spread is covered with a thin plastic film . This restricts the movement of spread and maximizes fabric compression when vacuum tables extract air to compact the spread prior to cutting

Quality parameters of Spreading

Ply alignment Ply tension/ slackness Bowing Variation in width of fabric Tight spread (contract after cutting) Slack spread (excess length of spread & hence oversized Short or insufficient overlap in splicing will lead to cut pattern sections whereas longer overlap leads to wastage of fabric

Quality parameters of Spreading

Electro statically charged fabric may lead to distorted spread resulting in incompletely cut garment parts ( can be eliminated by using static eliminators/ increasing the RH of the spreading room) Mismatching of checks and stripes.. Fabric not spread in the right direction (nap/piles) Variation in the cut order planning with the order and hence fewer or extra number of garments cut..

Specialized spreading tables

Generally a spreading table is flat and smooth and the cutting may be done on the same table or the cutting facility may be as close as possible.. Table width is generally fixed but may be adjustable as well. Normally spreading table needs to be 10 inches wider the the width of the fabric

Specialized spreading tables

Spreading tables may have tracks/ rails placed along one or both sides of the spreading table which hleps and guides the operator and have right control of the spreader as it moveas along the length of the spreading table Spreading table may have rows of pins that can be extended to hold the fabric in in precise location for accurate matching of pattern repeats

Specialized spreading tables

Vacuum tables. A plastic film is placed on the top of the lay . Used in quilted fabric to reduce the lay height by up to 75% and also to hold the slippery fabrics in place during spreading and cutting Air floatation tables have nylon bristles, help in easy shifting of lay from spreading table to cutting table.. using air floatation the friction between the lay and the spreading table is minimized for easy transport of lay from spreading table to cutting table

Specialized spreading tables

Conveyorized surface spreading table: helps in easy transportation of spread fabric from the spreading table to the cutting table . Ideally one lay can be cut while the other lay is being spread

 End allowance: allowance at the beginning and end of a lay Lay length: marker length + end allowance Edge allowance: allowance at the fabric edges Cutting loss: waste from within the lay plan Usable width : cloth width edge allowance Marker length