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Reading Material
Coastal Engineering Manual Part II
Chapter 1: pp. 59-76
Wave Statistics
Long-term wave statistics (a few years, 20 years, etc) Fisher-Tippet II distribution, etc. Short-term wave statistics (20 minutes, 3 hours, etc.) Rayleigh (wave height) distribution etc.
recording interval
3 hours
H1
individual wave height H1, H2, H3, individual wave period T1 T2 T3 T1, T2, T3,
T=H; % for n=1:(num_wave-1), start=crs_ind(2*n-1); % starting index for the n-th wave endd=crs_ind(2*n+1); % ending index for the n-th wave peak=max(eta(start:endd)); valley=min(eta(start:endd)); H(n)=peak-valley; T(n)=t(endd)-t(start); end;
P +Q = 1
pH (x)dx
0 .5
area
0 0 1 0 .5 1 1 .5 2 2 .5 3 3 .5 4 4 .5 5
cdf
0 .5
0 0 1 0 .5 1 1 .5 2 2 .5 3 3 .5 4 4 .5 5
poe
0 .5
0 0 0 .5 1 1 .5 2 2 .5 3 3 .5 4 4 .5 5
Theoretical Models
Wave elevation : Gaussian distribution (due to central limit theorem) Wave height : Rayleigh distribution (narrow band assumption)
Gaussian
1 1 x f (x) = p e xp 2 2
2) 1 <x<1
2 2 1 1 v F (x) = p e xp dv 2 2 1 Zx
Rayleigh
Rayleigh Distribution
cdf
2# h F (h) = 1 e xp ;
"
h 0
F (0) = 0, F (1 ) = 1
pdf
"
h 0
poe
h 0
Root-Mean-Square Value
pdf
2# 2h h f (h) = 2 e xp ;
"
h 0
E [H 2] =
Z1
0
substitute in
h2f (h) dh
= 2
notation for the rms of H
q =
E [H 2] = H rm s
h 0 h 0
h 0 h 0
hrms=1; h=0:0.01:4; psd = 2*h/hrms^2 .* exp(-(h/hrms).^2); cdf = 1 - exp(-(h/hrms).^2); Matlab Display: Rayleigh subplot(211); plot(h,psd); grid; subplot(212); plot(h,cdf,'r-'); grid
cdf
Z1
0
H rm hf (h) dh = s 2
2# h h f (h) = 2 e xp ; 4 2
"
h 0
Histogram to pdf