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Natural Protein Fibre

All proteins are polymers of amino acids.

Definition: The protein fibers are formed


by natural animal sources through condensation of amino acids to form repeating polyamide units with various substituent on the carbon atom. The sequence and type of amino acids making up the individual protein chains contribute to the overall properties of the resultant fiber.

Side groups in protein fibre.

Cross links
Cross-links are bonds that link one polymer chain to another. They can be covalent bonds or ionic bonds.

Wool quality number

Morphology of wool

Chemical composition of wool



comp. % Keratin 45- 75 Grease 5 -15 Moisture 10 12 Suint 2 12 Sand & dirt 4 30 Vegetable matter 0 - 5

Protein as a ampholytes
Ampholytes are molecules containing both acidic and basic groups. All of the common amino acids found in proteins are ampholytes because they contain a carboxyl group (-COOH) that acts as an acid and an amino group (-NH2) that acts as a base.

Composition of wool keratin


Carbon 50.3 to 52.5 Hydrogen 6.4 to 7.3 Nitrogen 16.2 to 17.7 Oxygen 20.7 to 25.0 Sulphur 0.7 to 5.0

Keratin : it is form by 15 to 20 amino acids gets condensed with each other and form polypeptide chains with condensed matter and COOH Group. Grease : it is soluble in organic solvents like ester of fatty acids or monohydric alcohol. Suint : it is soluble in water and can be isolated form wool by aqueous extraction.it consist of potassium salt of fatty acids and organic amino acids.

Physical properties of wool


Length (3.6 cm to 15 cm) Cross-section circular to elliptical Crimp 0 to 30 cirmps per inch fine 14 -22 , medium 8 -14 and course 8 Breaking strength: fine 4.8 to 10 gm, medium 10 16 gm and for course 20 24 gm

Wool is hydroscopic in nature its moisture content 12 to 15 % at 60 % RH And at RH 70 to 80 % moisture content is 17 to 18 %.

Electrical conductivity: bad conductor of electricity.


Burning : it catechus fire and burn.

Action of heat: Heat at 100 0C over a long period it loses moisture and fibre becomes harsh loses strength. If it returned to moist air again absorbs moisture rapidly. If the 100 0C is exceeded any length of time it decompose will acquire yellow color.

Effect of water and steam


wool changes its shape and affinity to dye when exposed to water or steam. Wool size increased in cold or hot water but on drying again return to its own size. Plastic propertyif wool is in dry state is deformed by imposing some fibre will recover its strain fibre will recover its original form. As humidity increases Wool loses its rigidity almost completely in boiling water become highly plastic.

Action of acid
Wool absorbs an acid from soln of acid and holds it firmly even after washing with water due to some amino groups. Nitric acid color changes to bright yellow Dilute acid prolong heating causes to hydrolysis of keratin to a mixture of amino acids. Hydrolysis of peptide linkages results in formation of free carboxyl group. Which increases the capacity of wool to combine with acids.

Wool react immediately with HCl & H2 So4 and become brittle and hard, surface scales of fibre are all deformed. It loses all desirable properties of wool. Dilute mineral acid changes its appearance but not causes changes in physical properties,

Action of Alkalies
Action of caustic soda or NaOH- 5 % soln completely dissolve wool in few min at boiling temp. Strength of wool increases when treated with 15 % NaOH at 19 0C for 5 min. Strong Alkali may act in diff way it hydrolyse main polypeptide chain of protein breaking them down in salt of amino asid.

Action of Oxidising agent


Strong Soln of H202, K2Cr2O7 damage wool more or less depending on temp and PH. Oxidising agent attack disulphide group of Cystine resulting in lower strength weight loss.

Action of Reducing agent


Reducing agent attack keratin group, disulphide group forming sulphydryl group

Effect of sun light and age


UV rays of the sun cause breakage of the disulfide bonds of cystine which results in photo chemical oxidation. This causes degradation and, if exposure is prolonged, eventual destruction. However wool has better resistance to sunlight than cotton. No sever effect of age if stored after cleaning.

Biological properties
Wool has resistance to bacteria and mildew. But the stains on wool attacked by them and destroy fibre.

Chemical modification in wool fibre


As wool is a protein and readily considered as a food for several types of insects. Thus it is necessary to prevent wool fiber from these insects. Some chemical are applied on wool fibre that will kill the insects. These finishes need frequent renewing , washing drycleaning removes it. Thus some chemical are applied that react with the wool and change molecules of wool and makes them uneatable to insects. These chemical are durable to wash and dry cleaning.

Use and care of wool


Wool has high crease recovery and elasticity when it is dry and lower when it is wet. So dry-cleaning and pressing of wool is easy but washing is not easy. Chlorine bleaches can not be use for bleaching, as they break cystine linkages and damage fibres. For bleaching hydrogen peroxide can be used. Mild soap and detergents are used for washing.

Some wool fabrics are labeled as washable. These fabrics are finished with some special finish or nylon fibres are mixed with wool fibres. So these fabrics should not wash with hot water. Store after cleaning and washing Finish effect on scales.

Books
Textile science by E P G Gohl Introductory Textile science M L Joseph Textile fibre H V S Murthy

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