TECHNOLOGY OF WEAVING PROCESS

Moekarto Moeliono

TECHNOLOGY OF WEAVING PROCESS 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. INTRODUCTION WEAVING PREPARATION WEAVING PROCESS WEAVING DESIGN WEAVING PRODUCTION WEAVING QUALITY

FABRIC TYPES
Woven Fabric Constructed by Crossing or Interlacing between Warp Yarn and Weft Yarn Knitted Fabric Constructed by Looping System of Weft knit or Warp Knit

Non Woven Constructed by Fiber Layers

FABRIC GROUPS

(Non Woven) Woven Fabrics Knitted Fabrics

WOVEN FABRIC
Woven fabric consist of crossing or interlacing between horizontal and vertical yarn Vertical yarn to be called warp yarn Horizontal yarn to be called weft yarn Crossing between warp yarn and weft yarn result woven fabric

ELEMEN T OF FABRICS
WARP

WEFT

PROCESS OF WEAVING
1. Weaving Preparation

2. Weaving Process

FLOW PROCESS OF WEAVING RAW MATERIAL

WARP YARN WEFT YARN

WINDING DOUBLING TWISTING WARPING TYING-IN WEAVING

WINDING PIRN

WEAVING PREPARATION
PURPOSE : 1. Yarn preparation involve some process to improve the yarns weaveability, so that no difficulty in the next weaving process 2. Make a suitable winding shape and volume according to the next process requirement.

WEAVING PREPARATION
Generally weaving consist of : 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. Winding Doubling Twisting Warping Drawing-in Pirn Rewinding preparation process

Twisting

Winding Doubling Twisting

YARN CONDITION
YARN QUALITY :
Yarn Count Average Yarn Twist Average Tenacity and Elongation Grade Evenness

RAW INVENTORY
100 X 100 X 100 X 100 X 100 X OUTPUT

100 - 2 X 100 - 2 X 100 - 1 X 100 - 2 X 100 - 1

WASTE

MATERIAL (YARN)
Yarn Count : Indirect Count
(the bigger yarns diameter means the rawer yarn and the smaller yarns count)

Type : Ne (1, 2, 3, and 4) and Nm

Ne1 = Yarn length (hanks)/Yarn weight (pound)

Ne1 20 means number of 20 hanks strands in 1 pound of mass (1 Hank = 840 yard = 768 meter and 1 pound = 453,6 gram) Nm = Yarn length (meter)/ Yarn weight (gram)
Nm 50 means number of 50 meters length in 1 gram of mass

THE MEANING OF HANK

Ne1 One hank = 840 Yard

Ne2

One hank = 300 Yard

Ne3

One hank = 560 Yard

Ne4

One hank = 256 Yard

MATERIAL (YARN) Yarn Count : Direct Count

(the smaller yarns diameter means the smoother
yarn and the smaller yarns count)

Type : Tex and Td

Tex = 1000 x weight (gram)/length (meter) 100 Tex means number of 100 grams of mass per 1000 meters length
Td = 9000 x Berat (gram)/Panjang (meter) 150 D means number of 150 grams of mass per 9000 meters in length

WINDING PROCESS

Purpose : 1. Rewinding yarns onto pirn sizes 2. Improve the quality of yarn that will be processed, including : tenacity, evenness, smoothness, and remove unwell knotting 3. Repair the yarns winding 4. Improve production efficiency

Winding Machine

SCHEME OF WINDING MACHINE

Doubling Process
Purpose : 1. To make doubling yarn according to the next process in need 2. Prepare yarns that will be twisted
Basically in doubling process, the machine even the process that will be used are same with winding process. The different is only more than one yarn feeding.

PRODUCTION OF WINDING MACHINE

(SURFACE SPEED)

3,14 X D X N

P1 X T1 X T2 X T4
P2 X T2 X T3 X T5

X D X N

P2

T1 T2 T3

T5 D

MOTOR

T4 P1
DRUM

TWISTING PROCESS
Twisting process is doubling some yarns and then gived certain twist TPC : Twist per cm TPI : Twist per Inchi TPM : Twist per meter The purpose of twisting process is to improve quality and performance of yarns even woven fabric from those yarns, i.e : - Twist balancing - Tenacity - Bursting strength - Fancy effect - Luster fabric - Twill effect will be more clear (for weaving design)

TWISTING
Three kinds of twisting :
1. Down Twisting 2. Up Twisting 3. TFO

TWISTING ANIMATION

TWISTING

Down Twisting

Key : 1. Bobbin creel 2. Bar 3. Feeding Rol 4. Pig tail (lappet) 5. Bobbin pirn 6. Spindle 7. Thin Rol 8. Spindle tape 9. Ring Rail 10. Traveler

Up Twisting
Key : 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. Thin Roller Spindle Tape Spindle Bobbin Pig tail Traverse Guide Drum

TFO TWISTING

THE DIRECTION OF YARN TWIST

There are 2 (two) kinds yarn twist : S-Twist and Z-Twist

S
S-TWIST

Z
Z-TWIST

Scheme of Twisted Yarn

Z

THE RELATION BETWEEN RAW MATERIAL AND TWISTED YARN THE LENGTH OF YARN TO BE RESULTED = 500 METRES TWIST CONSTRACTION = 6 % THE LENGTH OF YARN BEFOREHAND (BEFORE TWISTED) = 100/100 6 x 500

THE INFLUENCES TWIST DIRECTION ON FABRIC APPEARANCE

DULL

BRIGHT

SEVERAL OF FANCY YARNS

WARPING PROCESS
An operation where yarn is transferred from single packages of yarn to an even sheet of yarn representing hundreds of ends and then wound onto a warp beam.

THE AIM : TO WIND YARN ON TO THE WEAVING BEAM, that will be installed on weaving machine with the position yarn horizontally

WARPING PROCESS
THE RESULT OF GOOD WARPING :
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. Warped Yarn shall be same in length Position of warped yarn shall be parallel Warped yarn in a weaving beam shall not too much full fill Width of whole yarns in the weaving beam wider than reed width Yarn length shall be longer than fabric length that will be weaved Yarn surface on the beam shall be flat/ smooth Cakra Beam shall not skewing

Warping Process
Type of Warping Device
1. Hand warper 2. Sectional warping machine 3. Direct warping machine

warping process
Scheme of Sectional Warping Machine
1

6 5 4 2

Key : 1. Yarn creel 2. Feeder Rol 3. Crossing Reed 4. Warping Reed 5. Warping Length Counter

6. Feeder Rol 7. Drum 8. Tension Rol 9. Beam weaving

Warping Process
Direct Warper Machine

DRAWING-IN PROCESS
Yarns in a weaving beam before weaved needs drawing-in process Drawing-in process including this following process :
- Draws all the warp ends through the drop wires - Draws all the warp ends through the healds - Draws all the warp ends through reed According to the weaving design

TYING - IN TOOLS

TYEING IN PROCESS
When mass producing the same fabric by simply typing each end of a new beam to its corresponding end of the old beam TYEING IN ON HARNESS WITH HAND

Tyeing-in process
Tyeing - in machine

WARP KNOTTING

TOOLS

HAND

MACHINE

PORTABLE ELEMENT

KNOTED YARN WITH HAND

KNOTTED YARN WITH SPECIAL TOOL

PIRN WINDING PROCESS

Purpose :
To rewind the yarns from hanks, cone or cylinder shapes onto weft bobbin shape or pirn

PIRN WINDING PROCESS

Attention to the following tips: 1. The longer yarn winding in the pirn is better to increase efficiency

2. Choose the right type of pirn according to the shuttle in used

PIRN WINDING PROCESS

Winding Position
Beginning traverse Ending traverse

Winding surface

WEAVING PROCESS
DEFINITION : Weaving is the making of woven fabric which being carried by interlacing warp yarn and weft yarn. Weaving principle: 1. Shedding motion, rising and lowering the warp yarns 1. Weft insertion, insert weft yarn in to warp yarn 3. Beating motion, beat the weft yarn, enclose the weft yarn

SAMPLE-ANIMATION CONVENTIONAL WEAVING

Bill-Creation-Loom.flv

ANIMATION

THE PRINCIPE OF WEAVING

PRIMARY MOTIONS & SECONDARY MOTIONS

PRIMARY MOTIONS
Shedding Motion

Picking Motion

Beating Motion

(Process of Shedding Motion)

DOBBY ROL
JACQUARD (Mech. and Elect.)

THE SHAPE OF SHEDDING

UPPER SHAPE

LOWER

SIMETRICALLY

Picking Motion
SHUTTLE NON MACHINE AND MACHINE

(SHUTTLELESS)

MACHINE :
GRIPPER RAPIER (FLEXIBLE DAN RIGID) PROJECTILE

AIR JET LOOM

WATER JET LOOM

The Position of Beating Motion

CLOSED

OPENED

CROSSED

Secondary Motion

Let - off Motion

Take - up Motion

PART OF WEAVING SHUTTLE

5
11 10 4 9

6
8

Key : 1. Warp Beam 2. Cloth Beam 3. Shaft 4. Harness 5. Roller 6. Threadling 7. Beater 8. Beater shaft 9. Warp Yarn 10.Fabric 11. Shuttle

DRAWING SYSTEM
MANUAL

SOFTWARE (WEAVE DESIGN, WEAVE POINT, DB-DESIGN, NED-GRAF ETC)

WARP EFECT (WITH ROLLER THREADLING)

1 2 1 2

1 2 3

PRACTICE
ONE ROLLER SYSTEM

DIRECT THREADLING

THREADLING

THE WAY TO PLAN AND DRAW WEAVING DESIGN

AMERICA SWISS

GERMANY

SCANDINAVIA

AMERICAN SYSTEM

C
A. Weave B. Drawing-in C. Threadling D. Threading

GERMANY - SWISS

SCANDINAVIA

CHASMERE-TWILL
A. Weave B. Drawing-in, 1, 3, 2, 4 C. Threadling, 1, 4, 2, 3 D. Threading Heald 2 and 3 thread 1 Heald 2 and 4 thread 4 Heald 1 and 4 thread 2 Heald 1 and 3 thread 3

PEGGING PLAN
ROLLER THREADLING DOBBY

DOBBY PIN

CONSTRUCTION AND WEAVE

CONS. FABRICS :

1. YARN COUNT
2. Yarn density Number of yarns per cm or inch
Warp dencity Weft dencity 3. WEAVE - PLAIN - TWILL - Satin

The Basic Weave

Plain

Twill

Satin

SAMPLE FOR PEGGING PLAN PLAIN-TWILL-SATIN

PLAIN

TWILL

SATIN

PEGGING PLAN PLAIN-TWILL-SATIN WITH DOBBY

PEGGING PLAN FOR COMBINATION DESIGN

BASIC CONSEP IN MATERIAL CALCULATION

Fabric specification:

- Warp - Weft - Fabric width - Reed number - Pick/inchi - Warp shrinkage - Weft shrinkage - Warp waste - Weft waste - Fabric length - Selvedge
Nm = 1,693 Ne1

Ne1 30 Ne1 30 110 cm 64/2 64 (weft dencity) 13 % (ML) 10 % (MP) 5 % (LL) 3 % (LP) 500 meter 32 ends

THE WEIGHT ABRV.

WARP WEIGHT :

100 100 WARP TOTAL -------------- x -------------- x L FABRIC x ----------------- x 1 kg 100 - ML 100 - LL Ne1 x 1693

WEFT WEIGHT :

100 100 Pick x F WIDE --------------- x -------------- x LF x ------------------------- x 1 kg 100 - MP 100 - LP Ne1 x 1693

THE NEED OF YARN

WARP YARN : 100 100 (43,3. 64) + 32 --------- x -------------- x 500 x --------------------- x 1 kg 100 - 13 100 - 5 30 x 1693 = 22,80 kg

WEFT YARN :
100 100 64 x 43,3 --------------- x -------------- x 500 x -------------- x 1 kg 100 - 10 100 - 3 30 x 1693 = 23,81 kg

THE TOTAL YARN TO BE NEEDED : 46,61 kg

THE MAGNITUDE OF PROD

DEPEND ON :

RPM

FOR MACHINE

WARP AND WEFT TOTAL

YARN COUNT
A KIND OF WEAVE

Production of Weaving
(PRO 8 HOURS EFFECTIVELY)
NON MACHINE (2 - 5 KG) Shuttle (5 - 10 KG ) MODERN MACHINE (MORE THAN 10 KG)

THANK YOU